[foolsp33d]

well the right rear wheel bearing decided to finally let go...nails down the blackboard.....skreeeech...... ughhh... so now comes some more suzi downtime sad but hopefully worth it.. I'll run down on what options I have and would just like some input on DIY prices and rundown, or get it done by a 'specialist' etc.

feel free to ad your why or why nots in favor and against.

Lets begin..

Option one..
now as a run down.. drivers axle is out and from what i can tell its in good condition.. rolling it on a flat bit of glass shows no bumps and bends, splines look ok.. bearing is knaffed.. (broken balls/loose..generally rooted) same said for the outer seal, stuffed on removal(was split upon inspection). replace time. Id gather the inside seals would also be well worn by now..

so im up for new bearings(will do both sides obviously) sweet can live with that.. and new seals.. (again, both sides.. outer AND inner..just in case..) no wuckers.. Is it still the case the genuine suzuki ones still come with two seals?

having not changed a rear wheel bearing on the zuki before, and now finding the sleve on the axle needs to be pressed off im presuming I have to take it to a specialist or someone with a press...or is it safe to grind it off and remove..being careful o'corse!! the same with the bearing inner case? then using a pipe and brass coller to 'tap' back on?

when changing the inside bearing.. am i going to upset the (gwagen )backlash and play havok with my diff!?? or is a simple case of in and out!?
just noticing a few times it being needed to be setup by a 'profesional'

i am guessing in total about 400 bucks he

OR...

do i take the WT diffs out of the spares suzi and get some perches welded on at the NT track keeping it spua and have the WT diff overhauled with the NT centers installed.. if all is good gear wise.... yet to drain the diff.. i know..i know.. can I also get locating pin for springs moved now to?

*but now wondering if i have them welded ontop as well as the bottom...? but SPUA..i dont like being to high <-lol!


to those that have done this what problems did you encounter?
If you done it again what would you change?
Are you happy with the outcome?
Has it caused any problems since?
Any helpful tips!??
will I run into trouble for the week or two I have it on the road with WT in the back and NT in the front!?

same thing is posted on outers.. so no cheating and copying! lol..

* cheers dude!

[royce]

ok i'll have a go

just replace the broken wheel bearing, clean the busted bits out of the axle housing and drive it

least youll have operational transport while you setup the WT's and reco whatever you wish to reco on it

as to replacing the bearing, if its that bad that the outer race has already busted off your laughing, if not youll need to wrap some rag around the bearing TIGHTLY and with some glasses on smack it with a hammer to break it, careful cause there may be sharp edges afterwards

once you are down to the sleeve and inner race grab a 4" grinder and cut a slot along both, not too deep that you hit the axle and you dont need to go more than half way
then get a cold chisel and smack in the middle of the cut, that will loosen the grip on the axle and you can slide the bits off
to put the new ones on check for rough edges on the axle and file em down if any and slide the bearing down and I always wack it on with a 32nb heavy pipe, presses never seem to go smoothly for me, then do the same with the sleeve
slip a new seal in the axle housing and thats about it

[foolsp33d]

what about the seal and bearing on the inside towards the pumpkin.. wouldnt that be stuffed?

:looking inside the diff drivers side.



ta royce
will be hittin it with the grider tomorrow arvo then.. just confirmation its safe to do is what i needed.. id like to do it as cheeply as posible obviously, as id rather spend the $ on the cov. a little down the track..

figure if its got to have that inner one changed.. is it worth (dunno price) to have the WT done now rather than later and have the new seals and bearings put in that..while getting the perches changed..two birds one stone.. if its viable cost wise..

[royce]

you wont need to replace the inner, to do so is all sorts of diff reco headaches and are normally only done when you break something or hit really high km

theres no seal either, the thing with all the holes is the bearing adjuster, for setting the backlash and preload

much stronger bearing too, its tapered but only really under radial load not axial and radial like the wheel bearing

[foolsp33d]

^^ Thank you Sir That is the answer I needed to hear! dont suppose you know about the suzi kit containing an apperent needed seal? hear other mobs ones only come with one and two are required!??

just what iv read!! but if you have experiance in which is avail.

grinding the old one off tomorrow.. cheers for the help man.. much appreciated.. hmm.. still I like the idea of the WT diffs..

[royce]

yeah ive heard there is supposed to eb an outer seal, never bothered the aftermarket bearings have a seal in em

[foolsp33d]

yeh the new bearings look pretty.. oo red.. does that mean they go faster!??

old bearing removal in pictures
#1. secure axle in vice using a soft timber as to not damage axle spline.

move brake away as far as possible to allow for grinder to fit in...I used some cable ties to 'position the housing'

cutting aprox half way through the outer bearing race allowed me to cold chisel the remainded and 'snap' the race, gaining axsess to the inner race and collar.


again cutting half way through the collar and some gentle persuasion i was able to slide the collar off without any dramas.

The bearing inner race followed suit and came off the same way..

***NT owners note that there is a small spacer washer between the bearing and the brake housing. i actually damaged mine on remval and am hoping suzispares will have a replacement..

The final result is two bare axles, and degreased brake housings. Off to the pipe store.. (Not THAT pipe ya TRIPPAS!)

Many thanks to Royce and Dee(outers answer)for their quick answers and answering my mumbo jumbo questions.. I told the local barman it was my shout so now you just get down here to claim up

[royce]

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ile=submit

[Cough] tech report [/Cough]

good to see it worked out, dont the new bearings have a spacer built in?

[foolsp33d]

royce wrote:

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?name=News&file=submit

[Cough] tech report [/Cough]

good to see it worked out, dont the new bearings have a spacer built in?

will submit it now

i think the difference in the NT & WT bearings is the WT have the spacer built into the bearing race itself. not 100% on this but just from what iv researched....

new bearing anyway...

[royce]

interesting, I used to use NT bearings on my WT cause they were cheaper and they had a spacer built in
cant remember the part numbers though

[foolsp33d]

off to suziworld now so will ask them and get back with the 'suzi answer'

[foolsp33d]

WT runs a spacer in the bearing itself, NT runs the bearing and and space as seperate.. spacers are not included in kit. suziworld

[royce]

should measure it to see how they compare

[foolsp33d]

Now as a quick note.

*The bearings shown above WERE NOT FITTED, and ORIGINAL Suzi ones
were used, I unfortunatly didnt get the suzi part number for the NT
bearing either.. but i gather is the same as above..but NT spacers were
refitted and all looks good...from what i can tell anyway
*Bearing and Collar were installed using a brass collar and length of
piping. The spacer(NT) first, followed by the bearing and finally the collar.
This was performed by other parties and photos unavailable. sorry.

*I also replaced BOTH sides, Bearings, Seals and 'oil throwout' i marked
the drum housings D/P, and also cleaned the diff and the brake housing
contact area itself. there was no gaskets or seals in this area upon
removal. Pictures are a mix of the two, but principle remains the same.

**When removing and Fastening the brake hub to the axle make sure to
have the car on(compressed jackstands) or as close to the
ground as possible and secured safely.


here goes..

I removed the old seal from the passenger side and replaced the seal and the 'oil throw' with genuine new items.

this shows the new seal and oil throw.



once the axle has been carefully installed it may be necessary to CAREFULLY tap the axle and set the bearing into its home... I used a piece of pine as it was handy and soft..


looking from behind with housing to outside of wheel.



I also now tightened the 4 12mm nuts and spring washers on the housing securing it to the diff and checked alignment..

looks pretty ok.. reckon it may need a squirt of sealer of some sort though...

I also tightened and cleaned the bleed valve and brake line.


a quick degrease and on went the outer drum.
Dont forget the outer ring if it has been removed!
nows a good time to remove any dents or flat spots in the housing and guard..
[

now its just a matter of bleeding the brakes and putting the wheel back on. Dont ForGet to Fill the DifF!!!!!!!

[suzukikid]

Good work did mine when all me rear got re done!

Your splines looked straight.....mine where bent to shit so i had to get new ones!

[foolsp33d]

yep both splines were both staight, no kinks, no warpage, was a relief! have decided to take the WT diffs down to suziworld in the next few weeks and get them to move the perches to SPUA Nt spacing. Will also redrill the locator pin and extend the front and rear wheelbase fractionally.. Will ask the relative questions when the time comes RUFS might be worthy at this stage also

[foolsp33d]

woah, 3 years since I did the rear wheel bearings eh.. and STILL havnt touched them WT diffs!!!

Back to a DIFFERENT pipe store me thinks!

[whincup]

foolsp33d wrote:

sorry to hijack, but is it necessary to put a seal in there? when i did mine a year ago i just used some "blue maxx silicone", same stuff i used to seal the diff centre to the housing... is that actually needed?

[steak_knife]

whincup wrote:

sorry to hijack, but is it necessary to put a seal in there? when i did mine a year ago i just used some "blue maxx silicone", same stuff i used to seal the diff centre to the housing... is that actually needed?

Do you mean in between the backing plate & housing??

Not needed, but why not..just don't use 1/2 a tube on em.....

[weaves]

steak_knife wrote:

whincup wrote:

sorry to hijack, but is it necessary to put a seal in there? when i did mine a year ago i just used some "blue maxx silicone", same stuff i used to seal the diff centre to the housing... is that actually needed?

Do you mean in between the backing plate & housing??

Not needed, but why not..just don't use 1/2 a tube on em.....

i think he might be confusing the outer ring on the drum with a diff gasket.

if you used blue maxx on the mating faces of your diff centre and diff housing, then yes thats fine.. it what everyone uses

[skyman]

I have a couple of questions, I have never seen an oil throw before in any of the axles I have been into. We have the 1.3 Sierra here.

Does the oil throw rotate with the axle, and help lube the bearing.

Do WT axles, or standard sierra axles use those oil throws?

And.. would it be a good idea to put one in mine.

[Fatzook]

Sky

Bearings are packed with grease. The outer seal runs on the spacer/ retainer before the bearing, which puts the wheel bearing outside of the oiled area.

Aslo worth mentioning the plastic do-dad inside the housing ( visable behind the seal). Thats just a seal saver. Helps prevent damage to the seal when you slide the axle in.

[skyman]

Ok lol so he was talking about the oil throw in the diff. Sky "smacks his head"