[Mugwui]

GV V6 Manual is jumping out of gear when travelling in High Range 4WD.
It is jumping from high range 4WD back to 2WD at varing speeds but generally after about 45km/h.
I'm thinking it may be the vacume pressure but I'm not sure,
Can anyone help? has anyone experienced this?

[gravity_powered]

Yep, mine is doing it too

I don't have any answers though.

I pulled my transfer case apart a couple of years ago to check it out but couldn't see anything obvious. Have just put up with it since then.

I don't think it is air pressure. I have tried hooking a bike pump up and pumping it up to twice the normal working pressure and it still pops out (and skips in low range).

[steak_knife]

If you have taken the rear cover off the transfer, you were part way there. The high range cog has worn slightly ( not seen by the naked eye ) Suzuki have a modified cog with a 3deg difference in the syncro, simple fix!

[Mugwui]

steknig wrote:

If you have taken the rear cover off the transfer, you were part way there. The high range cog has worn slightly ( not seen by the naked eye ) Suzuki have a modified cog with a 3deg difference in the syncro, simple fix!

Steknig, could you please explain this a little clearer and in a little more detail. Is this a genuine suzuki part that you buy from the dealer or is it after market?
It also has a banging noise in low range when it is under load, any ideas on this one?

[joeblow]

steknig wrote:

If you have taken the rear cover off the transfer, you were part way there. The high range cog has worn slightly ( not seen by the naked eye ) Suzuki have a modified cog with a 3deg difference in the syncro, simple fix!

yes, it was a problem that suzuki noted. but what i want to know is why people think its vacuum related? the t/case has a lever, not a vacuum switch.

[Mugwui]

Joeblow,

If it was noted as a problem,was a solution also noted, if so, what is it, and as for the vacuum, I was only asuming and grasping at straws as I hve looked at everything else and cant find anything, so I thought it may have been the actuator pump which to my limited knowledge is attached to the T'case.
Can you help at all?

[gravity_powered]

steknig wrote:

If you have taken the rear cover off the transfer, you were part way there. The high range cog has worn slightly ( not seen by the naked eye ) Suzuki have a modified cog with a 3deg difference in the syncro, simple fix!

So in here:


Are you are talking about the 2WD/4WD interface between this bit:


and this bit, marked "A" ?:


Or are you talking about the High/low range syncro in the reduction box marked "b"?

I want to know more about these modified syncros! Is there a 'technical bulletin' about this syncro problem floating around?

Mugwui: If it is the 2WD/4WD syncro causing the problem, i'm pretty sure that it is also causing the clunking in low range. When in low range there is an interlock that holds the 4WD engaged, it would still pop out but would be forced straight back in.

The 'vacuum' bit relates to the air operated freewheel mechanism in the front diff that engages the CV shafts with the hemisphere. It's apparently also a known problem for the pump or the mechanism to fail.

[gravity_powered]

This is the technical bulletin for the front 'vacuum' problem.
Chevrolet Tracker is a Grand Vitara's Yankee cousin with no flares and an ugly grill by the way...

Quote:

Technical report on known fault in front axle.

File In Section: 04 Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 01-04-19-003
Date: April, 2001

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Harsh Clunk Noise From Front Axle While in 4WD and During Turning Maneuvers (Replace Front Differential Case, Actuator and Side Bearings)

Models:
1999 Chevrolet Tracker with Four-Wheel Drive

Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh clunk or popping noise coming from the front axle. This condition is most apparent while driving in 4WD at low speeds on loose traction surfaces such as gravel or snow and turning right or left.

Cause
Inside the front differential case, the teeth of the free wheel axle hub may jump a tooth resulting in the noise.

Correction
A modification was made to the design of the front differential case, which should reduce the likelihood of the free wheel hub teeth from jumping.

Replace the front axle differential case, actuator and side bearings using the service procedure and part numbers as shown.

Important: With the new design differential case, the teeth may still jump under extreme torque load conditions, such as making tight turn maneuvers in 4WD on hard dry surfaces resulting in a similar noise. This noise is now considered to be a normal vehicle operating characteristic. Driving on high traction surfaces in 4WD is not necessary and contributes to excessive torque load on the front axle. Customers should be advised to shift into 2WD when driving on such surfaces.

[Mugwui]

Gravity_Powered,
Thanks for the info.

So now, does this mean I have 2 problems?

1/ a problem in the T,case where I may have a worn gear that needs replacing? Hence, it jumps out of 4WD back to 2WD.
AND
2/ a problem with the font diff where I need to replace the diff case, actuator and side bearing? Hence, the clunking noise in low range under load.

[gravity_powered]

Mugwui wrote:

Gravity_Powered,
Thanks for the info.

So now, does this mean I have 2 problems?

1/ a problem in the T,case where I may have a worn gear that needs replacing? Hence, it jumps out of 4WD back to 2WD.
AND
2/ a problem with the font diff where I need to replace the diff case, actuator and side bearing? Hence, the clunking noise in low range under load.

No, I don't think so.

Back in January while down in Adelaide I had the front diff rebuild, and the air pump checked.
The air pump was getting up to the working pressure (6-8 PSI approx.) and the actuator and piping was holding pressure fine.
The shop that rebuilt the diff claimed that the teeth on the freewheel engagement where stuffed.
But $1000 later I still had exactly the same problem.

The fact that it doesn't clunk as well as pop out in high range makes me think it is the one problem. As I said above, in low range the 4wd selector shaft is locked in 4WD, I think that there is enough play in the 4wd selector that the syncro can pop out, but gets forced back in again immediately causing the clunk.

[steak_knife]

The bit in your hand, B. The were is so minimal that you can`t c it . The new part has been cut diffrent, I`ve fitted 5 of them with out any prob`s. I`ll post the part no tomorra night. P.s i work on suzuki`s for a living

[Mugwui]

steknig wrote:

The bit in your hand, B. The were is so minimal that you can`t c it . The new part has been cut diffrent, I`ve fitted 5 of them with out any prob`s. I`ll post the part no tomorra night. P.s i work on suzuki`s for a living

Steknig,
can you also tell me, what price should I be paying for this part and also, will this new part fix the gear slipping, the clunking noise or both?
thanks for you help.

[steak_knife]

Sorry bout the short reply`s, i`m new to typing, in the time it take`s me to type out a sentence i could of fixed ya wagon. Suzuki part no;29221-85F52 .
That no is for the modified 4wd cog, if you buy a non gen part it will do the same thing in about 5000km in high range 4wd. this part will fix jumping out of 4H, the vacc prob everyone talk`s about is as the tec report mentioned by
gravity-powered, once again if you DON`T use gen parts (these should be superseded part no`s, most dealer`s know of this prob ) you havn`t fixed the prob, the front diff loose`s vacc between the housing & the diff hemisphere, the reason it thud`s is oil get`s into the vacc leak & seal`s it up, when you go over uneven ground, oil go`s away, vacc leak`s, BANG, front diff disengage`s. If the selector is physically moving you need the cog, hope i`ve made it a bit clearer for ya`s.
P.s Nice GV. Like the height!

[gravity_powered]

Steknig,

Thanks so much for you help. This is the first I've heard of a fix for this problem in two years of searching just about every Suzuki forum worldwide.

[steak_knife]

Happy to help, only found this site on sunday, looking for bit`s fa my GV, tiss green to. I did my 4wd cog drive`n on the front diff after snap`n the rear diff, but that another story.

[gravity_powered]

So any Suzuki dealer should be able to source this part?

Sorry still don't quite understand, does the new part replace the outer sleeve that is moved backwards and forwards by the lever, or the inner part attached to the front drive cog?

[Mugwui]

steknig wrote:

Happy to help, only found this site on sunday, looking for bit`s fa my GV, tiss green to. I did my 4wd cog drive`n on the front diff after snap`n the rear diff, but that another story.

Steknig, what parts are you looking for?
and were you able to get that part number?

[gravity_powered]

steknig wrote:

Suzuki part no;29221-85F52 .

[Mugwui]

steknig wrote:

That no is for the modified 4wd cog, if you buy a non gen part it will do the same thing in about 5000km in high range 4wd. this part will fix jumping out of 4H, the vacc prob everyone talk`s about is as the tec report mentioned by
gravity-powered, once again if you DON`T use gen parts (these should be superseded part no`s, most dealer`s know of this prob ) you havn`t fixed the prob, the front diff loose`s vacc between the housing & the diff hemisphere, the reason it thud`s is oil get`s into the vacc leak & seal`s it up, when you go over uneven ground, oil go`s away, vacc leak`s, BANG, front diff disengage`s. If the selector is physically moving you need the cog,

Steknig, Sorry but I am still a little unsure here, so if I put the new cog in the t'case, that will fix the gear slipping problem?
& then I need to fix the diff as well....Is this correct?
I also spoke with a dealer about Part #29221-85F52 and he said I will also need the upgraded part #24430-65D40 which is the other part in Gravity_Powereds Pics.
Can you confirm this?

Now, If I put a Vitara diff centre and a locker in the front diff, will this stop my clunk problem?
Thanks for the comments on my zook, it is under "HUMZUKI" in "Rigs of Auszookers"
Cheers.

[steak_knife]

It replaces the drive cog, your syncro ring should be fine. the cog drives the front shaft via the chain. as for p/no, 24430-65d40, will have to get back to you about it, I think that's the syncro ring, I`ve never replaced one as thay looked fine. As for the front diff Mugwui, i`m not 100% on them as I myself have never replaced one for that problem, I think an after market air locker in your housing should fix it, providing thay don't use your hemisphere. That took age`s to type 2 fingered !

[Mugwui]

Thanks, I'll wait for your response on that part number, but I think you're right, it probably is the syncro ring.
Oh, and the more you type the better you get. I am also only 2 fingered and this has only taken me about 1 minute. Cheers.

[gravity_powered]

Steknig wrote:

It replaces the drive cog, your syncro ring should be fine.

I think I might need to replace my syncro ring as well with how much slipping it has done

Any idea of the cost for the parts?

Mugwui,

I'd do the transfer case first (as it would seem to definitely be causing the popping out of 4WD high) and see if the clunk goes away.

[Mugwui]

Quote:

I think I might need to replace my syncro ring as well with how much slipping it has done.
Any idea of the cost for the parts?

Gravity_Powered,
Thanks, I think I will do the t'case first, cause if I break the diff I'm not too worried about it as it is going to be replaced soon anyway.
The dealer told me today that each part was about $236.00. That is the syncro ring and the cog (gear).
He also said they would have to be ordered from Japan, so it would be about a 3 week wait.

[steak_knife]

Got more info, the part no. 29221-85F52 shows up as a nothing an the Suzuki part catalog. How eva, I gave him my VIN & we found 2 numbers,
P no.29221-85F40 & 29221-85D40. & that is the syncro or selector ring. Would be a good idea to give them your VIN to make sure you get the rite one, I`m told thay changed round 2002 to fix this prob. Once again he has never changed one either, but as you said, your`s has been jumping out foe awhile. Front diff, you don`t want to know the price on genuine. ARB do lockers & that will fix!! Not to mention more fun off road.
Ps. when testing standard GV diff`s,
DO NOT PUT MORE THAN 9Psi IN THEM!!!
All you`ll do is blow up the air bag.
Hope I`ve solved ya prob`s boy`s!

[Mugwui]

Thanks Steknig, you've been a great help. I also gave the dealer my Vin and they came up with part no. 29221-85F52 & 29221-85D40.
He told me that there has been 2 upgrades since the original so that is 3 in total. Apparently the original part from new was 29221-85F50, the there was an upgrade to 29221-85F51 and then another upgrade to 29221-85F52 which is now the current part. I hope this all makes sence.

[gravity_powered]

Got any further with it Mugwui?

[Mugwui]

gravity_powered wrote:

Got any further with it Mugwui?

Yes Mate, I priced up the parts I needed and They came in at about $500, so I have bought a whole second hand t/case for $275 from a 2000 model which I will be putting in this weekend so I will let you know how that goes.
As for the Knck in the front diff, well the experts have told me not to worry about it, it is a design fault from factory and it wont effect anything and it wont break and I just have to put up with the noise, But putting a locker in will fix it, so that is the next project.
I'll keep you updated.

[gravity_powered]

Sweet! Where did you score the T-case?

[Mugwui]

I got it from DJ710 here in Brisbane, I found him on this website.
He races them as has heaps of spare parts,
He has a posting under "GV Parts for sale".
He has also offered to take it back if it does'nt work...
Rear to find such a nice bloke, he's been really helpfull, and he
was the one that told me about the front diff, so after seeing what he does and the efforts he goes to, I trust him.
But time will tell.

[Mugwui]

So I've put the new transfer case in...and ...walla...it works.
No more jumping out of hi range 4wd. I haven't had it under load yet, so I'm not sure if it's made any difference to the diff or not.
I'll post up my findings after my next day out.