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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:22 am 
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ok guys as it seems to come up every week here, here is my take on the correct way to do a chassis ext RUF (or full ruf as most call it)

this is done exactly the same way as my high top was done but with slightly revised specs on the hanger placement.

step 1 strip and clean the chassis, I sandblasted it but you only really need to remove the paint so welding is possible.

I might add if your not able to weld with reasonalble confidence now is the time to stop and do a half ruf.
Image
chassis with all the crap removed

Image
next you need to remove the front spring hanger, now we are only trying to CUT the weld holding it there not cut the hanger or the chassis
Image
A 1mm thin cutting disk is the ticket for this, done properly you will cut just the weld and then all that is required to revove the hanger is a TAP with a hammer as per the pic
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the piece we want

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:33 am 
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next is the chassis extension, now it is probably JUST possible to do this without extending the chassis but it will depend on a lot of variables like shackle lenght etc and its just easier and safer in the long run to do the extension.
my extension is 35mm in this case but the hight top got 60mm
Image
now is a great time to put those crush tubes onto the bumper mount holes as well
Image
the 35 mm extension
Image
the extra hole is for the bar mounts as the zuki ones are puss I added an extra with crush tube
next step is to clean the mount we removed up of all the old weld so it can sit flat on our new position

Image
at this stage I like to tack weld the chassis extension and the spring hanger where I think it will all want to end up and then try a spring in both flexed and drooped to make sure its all going to work.
Image

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:37 am 
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I like where this thread is going!
I'm due to do RUF on my zook this week, so this is reassuring that my ideas are all correct.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:46 am 
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now this trial end error bit tacking and moving mounts is the important part of the whole thing.
the below pic is my first try and would probably be great for a daily vehicle shackle angle wise but its not what I'm looking for in this instance.
the mount position will determine your total suspension droop and your ride height and total loaded shackle angles so its VERY important you get it right by testing all the positions.Image
this is what I ended settleing on for a compressed shackle angle, its going to drive very soft and loose but will give me max droop without flipping the shackle backwards on a hard hit
Image
once your happy with how everything sits and flexes, you can weld the whole shit fight togther, remember to make sure it welded properly, and if your unsure maybe fish plate the join.
fish plates are not required on mine as the mount only sits 10mm past the end of the old chassis

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:48 am 
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Is that a std main????

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:51 am 
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ok so now your chassis extension is all welded up with the new hanger welded on as well you need to clean up any ugly spots, paint with cold gal to stop the rust and then paint.
Image
Fit a set of Bruces special flexy bushes and reassemble :wink:
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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:53 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
Is that a std main????

no stekky its o ne of twoshagged out old man emu that gwagen gave me.
I'm using those mains with a mix of two other brands to make the pack

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:56 am 
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ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
Is that a std main????

no stekky its o ne of twoshagged out old man emu that gwagen gave me.
I'm using those mains with a mix of two other brands to make the pack


how far did you move the rear????? :?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:58 am 
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Great write up!

Would I be right in assuming this would bring the diff forward 17.5mm?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:59 am 
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now guys you need to remenber that you have now moved the diff forwards perhaps an inch, so you may also need to cut the bumpstop off the chassis and move that to suit before it eats your new uber long shockers and fit those extended brake lines.

why would you do all this when you can just redrill the rear hanger and fit extended shackles you ask???
because if you do it right you get massive improvement in flex ride quality and overall suspension droop, and you cant get that by redrilling the rear hanger and hoping it all works out right.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:00 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
Is that a std main????

no stekky its o ne of twoshagged out old man emu that gwagen gave me.
I'm using those mains with a mix of two other brands to make the pack


how far did you move the rear????? :?


Longer shackle :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:01 am 
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Should it be noted that your vehicle is a narrow track, so the inboarded spring hanger position greatly simplifies the task?
Removing and mounting the standard hanger on a wide track would require some extra fab work as the hanger sits outside the line of the chassis rail.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:01 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
Is that a std main????

no stekky its o ne of twoshagged out old man emu that gwagen gave me.
I'm using those mains with a mix of two other brands to make the pack


how far did you move the rear????? :?

didnt move the rear, the shackles I'm using are 115 mm centers and the mount has moved a total of 27mm forward , although this measurement is directly determined by the spring and shackle lenghts.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:05 am 
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cause i move rear 35mm & front 40mm & a 2in spring unweighted & shackle folded forward.

Which is a fair bit more than you have moved, I'm now running a std main, diff is around 10mm forward from std.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:07 am 
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royce wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
Is that a std main????

no stekky its o ne of twoshagged out old man emu that gwagen gave me.
I'm using those mains with a mix of two other brands to make the pack


how far did you move the rear????? :?


Longer shackle :wink:

for a daily driver the go would be stock or near shock lenght shackles and move the mount a little further.
it would still drive fairly tight but you would get the long spring suppleness

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:10 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
cause i move rear 35mm & front 40mm & a 2in spring unweighted & shackle folded forward.

Which is a fair bit more than you have moved, I'm now running a std main, diff is around 10mm forward from std.

as you can see by the pics its not possible to invert the shackle, and thats why tacking and trying with one main is so important, you can make sure it wont invert but still make sure you are getting the whole ruf advantage of the suspension droop.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:12 am 
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ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
cause i move rear 35mm & front 40mm & a 2in spring unweighted & shackle folded forward.

Which is a fair bit more than you have moved, I'm now running a std main, diff is around 10mm forward from std.

as you can see by the pics its not possible to invert the shackle, and thats why tacking and trying with one main is so important, you can make sure it wont invert but still make sure you are getting the whole ruf advantage of the suspension droop.


:helloo: did that!!!

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:15 am 
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mnemonix wrote:
Should it be noted that your vehicle is a narrow track, so the inboarded spring hanger position greatly simplifies the task?
Removing and mounting the standard hanger on a wide track would require some extra fab work as the hanger sits outside the line of the chassis rail.


Weld some plate on to the extension and old hanger spot and mount the spring hanger to the plate.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:15 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
cause i move rear 35mm & front 40mm & a 2in spring unweighted & shackle folded forward.

Which is a fair bit more than you have moved, I'm now running a std main, diff is around 10mm forward from std.

as you can see by the pics its not possible to invert the shackle, and thats why tacking and trying with one main is so important, you can make sure it wont invert but still make sure you are getting the whole ruf advantage of the suspension droop.


:helloo: did that!!!

yes you need to make sure your not getting too horizontal on the shackle or when you hit a big bump it will flip into inverted.
its a fine line much past the angle in my second pic.
stekky you got too greedy :wink:

you could also add an anti inversion pin on the end of the chassis I suppose, but its easier to just get it right


Last edited by ajsr on Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:16 am 
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ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
cause i move rear 35mm & front 40mm & a 2in spring unweighted & shackle folded forward.

Which is a fair bit more than you have moved, I'm now running a std main, diff is around 10mm forward from std.

as you can see by the pics its not possible to invert the shackle, and thats why tacking and trying with one main is so important, you can make sure it wont invert but still make sure you are getting the whole ruf advantage of the suspension droop.


Put the jack under the shackle and lift the car up, should stretch everything enough to see if it will pop or not :)

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:17 am 
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ajsr wrote:
yes you need to make sure your not getting too horizontal on the shackle or when you hit a big bump it will flip into inverted.
its a fine line much past the angle in my second pic.
stekky you got too greedy :wink:


:roll: piss off..... :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:20 am 
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royce wrote:
ajsr wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
cause i move rear 35mm & front 40mm & a 2in spring unweighted & shackle folded forward.

Which is a fair bit more than you have moved, I'm now running a std main, diff is around 10mm forward from std.

as you can see by the pics its not possible to invert the shackle, and thats why tacking and trying with one main is so important, you can make sure it wont invert but still make sure you are getting the whole ruf advantage of the suspension droop.


Put the jack under the shackle and lift the car up, should stretch everything enough to see if it will pop or not :)

wont happen I tried , I didnt pick the car up , but i put a bar in there to see if I could flip it.
the hightop has just a little more angle and ive never flipped that but It probaly will filp if the bushes wear too much

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:25 am 
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Great write up mate!

Any info on Shock mounts?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:29 am 
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remydog05 wrote:
Great write up mate!

Any info on Shock mounts?

maybe next week, I'm just getting back into the swing. Today was my first back in the shed since the boom :evil:
man there is blood everywhere I look 8O

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:37 am 
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ajsr wrote:
remydog05 wrote:
Great write up mate!

Any info on Shock mounts?

maybe next week, I'm just getting back into the swing. Today was my first back in the shed since the boom :evil:
man there is blood everywhere I look 8O


Now that has to be spooky!
Great to see your back in action.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 11:30 am 
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Do you have to go thru all the measuring, or just follow your measurements.

Sopz the leaf and shackle length will determine end positioning hey.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 11:52 am 
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SuziBlu wrote:
Do you have to go thru all the measuring, or just follow your measurements.

Sopz the leaf and shackle length will determine end positioning hey.


no you need to work it out to suit your setup, as different springs are different lengths and shackels etc

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 12:02 pm 
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yea thought so, no easy way out.

Wonderful write up by the way.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:14 pm 
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Fantastic write up mate what is the main benifits of doing RUF?

Please list them for me.

Conrad

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:24 pm 
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Also i'm looking at getting some braided stainless lines would 10inches longer than stock be too long or would 4 inches over stock be better suited for RUF?

4INCh braided lines Link
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lifted-SS-brake-lines-hoses-Suzuki-Samurai-Sierra-/250798333638?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a64bedec6

10INCH Braided lines Link
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Extended-SS-brake-lines-hoses-Suzuki-Samurai-Sierra-/250798333624?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a64bedeb8


Conrad

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