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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:07 pm 
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Ok so im new to Zooks and not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination... I have a problem:

I went wheeling in the mud pit that was the Gold Coast yesterday avo and some how managed to shear off all of the bolts holding my front right locking hub to the wheel.... consequently i went from 4wd to 2wd very quickly!!! This made for some very big rooster tails and alot of reving trying to get myself back to the top of the mountain (sorry about the spray GC Boyz!!!). As this was my first wheel in my new Zook i was pretty keen to see what it could do, and i might have been a bit energetic with the accelerator at times but i wasnt strapping it THAT much!! I am a bit confused as to how i managed to shear off these bolts...

Has anyone faced this issue before?

Is it safe for me to drive around in 2wd while i am fixing this issue?

What will be required to fix this? Will i need to rebuild the hub like in this post auszookers.com/index.p...ic&t=20086 ?

Will i need to change the rubber seal in the hub when rebuilding?

Will i need to drain my diff and change oil? it was bloody muddy and im assuming alot of shit got in that hub...

Should i bother trying to fix it or just source a new hub?

Thanx for any help with this matter guys. I really have no clue where to start...

*pics coming...

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:35 pm 
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Pull apart the hub and clean it nd put it back together.
Check if every thing is still in working order.
Are the bolts still inside the spindle were they have been sheared off?

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:39 pm 
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it's an easy fix tripa. Normally you can get a small flat head screw driver to tap the old bolts out of the hub. a quick fix is to grab some 60 series axle stud kits from a local auto shop they should have them, they contain a stud, cone washer, spring washer and nut and are a perfect fit for the sierra free wheeling hub.

They cost next to nothing and you can buy a heap of them and swap them out on the trail in about 20 minutes. They should be the same grade as the OEM hub bolts. I use them on my zook as I was popping hub bolts after doing some stupid driving, they also come individually sealed in little bags so easy to keep together.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:56 pm 
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I sheared them all off the LH hub a while ago.
I didn't bother trying to remove them all, just replaced the hub.

Image

I swapped the hub for a spare I had and fitted the strongest M8x1.25 bolts I could get.. Socket head cap screws... Grade 12.9

Image

You'll probably find the bolts broke because they weren't tight enough.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:57 pm 
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Yeah bolts are still in the spindle... thats why i was wondering if there was an easy fix...? I like the sound of that Dank... Can i get the old hub off if the bolts are sheered in there though?? would super cheap or other auto shops sell the 60 series hubs?

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:06 am 
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ok cool thanx for that mate... so i guess its either find a spare sierra front hub or replace it with a 60 series one... im glade its an easy fix...! what about the diff? will i have to replace the oil? i dont know how it all works? or is the hub separate from all that shit? hope so!!! cheers for the photos "want33's" i think u sheared the bolts off on the focusing ring of your camera too ;)

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:07 am 
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So im assuming its fine to drive around in 2wd while im sourcing replacement parts??

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:30 am 
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You guys are legends by the way!! thanx for the quick reply's, and the pics!! Soooo much easier having support like this when u need it!! I look forward to the many more times i will call on all your knowledge!!!

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:35 am 
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Here is a pic of my effort:

Image

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:36 am 
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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:42 am 
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they look rusty?

i've not had this happen to mine, but i check my hub bolts every 6 months or so (well, i lie, i rebuild the thing and check the others in the process).

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:19 am 
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Tripa wrote:
ok cool thanx for that mate... so i guess its either find a spare sierra front hub or replace it with a 60 series one... im glade its an easy fix...! what about the diff? will i have to replace the oil? i dont know how it all works? or is the hub separate from all that shit? hope so!!! cheers for the photos "want33's" i think u sheared the bolts off on the focusing ring of your camera too ;)

My VERY expensive Fuji Finepix camera has been dunked in mud a few times and doesn't quite work the way it used to.... :oops:

I believe Dank was talking about the hub BOLTS, not the whole hub. Cruiser are 6 stud so it won't work.
If you are just removing the hub you won't need to replace the diff oil but this is a good opportunity to check it and replace if necessary.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:56 am 
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wants33s - there should be a button on the camera that has a flower on it... press that before taking close up shots =) its not the camera's fault lol

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 3:14 am 
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alien wrote:
wants33s - there should be a button on the camera that has a flower on it... press that before taking close up shots =) its not the camera's fault lol


or make sure its on auto focus (af) not manual focus

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 3:54 am 
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I use the macro settings but the two stage trigger doesn't do the first stage (auto focus) anymore.... :evil:

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2011 1:12 pm 
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Cheers for all the help... I especially liked the brake down of the macro button... Priceless!

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:05 am 
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Hey wants33 a little birdy said u might have one of these hubs avaliable... Is it just the front wheel hub i need to replace? Ive asked around a bit on the forum... we'll see what eventuates...

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:55 am 
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want33s wrote:
I sheared them all off the LH hub a while ago.
I didn't bother trying to remove them all, just replaced the hub.

Image

I swapped the hub for a spare I had and fitted the strongest M8x1.25 bolts I could get.. Socket head cap screws... Grade 12.9

Image

You'll probably find the bolts broke because they weren't tight enough.


Do u know what length bolts the M8 x 1.25 grade 12.9's are?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:21 am 
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Tripa wrote:

Do u know what length bolts the M8 x 1.25 grade 12.9's are?


The same legth as the bolts you need to replace? :?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:41 am 
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yep i do realise this... but i was going to pick some up on my way home from work... car at home. me riding motorbike... alls good though... i will do tomoza ;)

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 5:03 am 
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if you upgrade your bolts then think about the next thing in the drive train to break. I'd keep your bolts at grade 8.8, rather than going to 12.9. You will probably start breaking CVS or ring and pinions which are a big pain in the butt to fix.

make sure you use cone washers as well, otherwise you will snap off the new bolts quick smart.

This is what comes in the 60 SERIES axles stud kit :

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:35 am 
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Tripa wrote:
Do u know what length bolts the M8 x 1.25 grade 12.9's are?

Yep... 30mm
M8X1.25X30
I haven't broken anything since upgrading the bolts. I can see your reasoning but I think it is misplaced.
CrMo axles and CV's should handle a lot more than the locking ring in the hub anyway.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:41 am 
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Tripa wrote:
Do u know what length bolts the M8 x 1.25 grade 12.9's are?

Yep... 30mm
M8X1.25X30


dank wrote:
if you upgrade your bolts then think about the next thing in the drive train to break. I'd keep your bolts at grade 8.8, rather than going to 12.9. You will probably start breaking CVS or ring and pinions which are a big pain in the butt to fix.



I haven't broken anything since upgrading the bolts. I can see your reasoning but I think it is misplaced.
CrMo axles and CV's should handle a lot more than the locking ring in the hub anyway.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:58 am 
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want33s wrote:
I haven't broken anything since upgrading the bolts. I can see your reasoning but I think it is misplaced.


I don't think it's misplaced. The locking ring in the hubs is the same strength as used in toyotas etc. I vote the R&P will go before the hub.

It's so easy to change hub bolts I reckon they are a sweet fuse. I'd rather change hub bolts than take out anything else in the driveline. Even a broken hub means you have to pull the hub bolts to swap it so there's stuff all difference in labour

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:43 am 
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Ok so ive got a few questions now...

1. Can i fix the wheel hub that i currently have with the sheared off bolts in it? Is it possible to drill out the unwanted studs without wrecking the thread and having to re-tap?

2. I understand that the locking hub is separate from the wheel hub? do i separate by removing the front bolts on the locking hub?

3? I took the wheel off and the caliper off to see how difficult it would be to remove the wheel hub but i quickly found myself not having a clue... which bolts do i remove next to get the wheel hub off?

4. I have found a guy in ipswich who can sell me a wheel hub for $25 or both the wheel hub and locking hub for $45... is this a good price? and is it necessary for me to buy both (will my locking hub still be fine?)?

Once again, sorry for my lack of knowledge... and needless to say i appreciate any and all help.

Heres some pics to help u guys explain to me..

Image

Image

Image

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:55 am 
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the curclip on the axle will be holding the hub on. if you take the other six bolts on the free wheeling hub off you can get to this curclip and remove it, thus removing the hub.
let me know if you want me to come give you a hand, you have my number

and your FWH should be fine with a good clean out.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:59 am 
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MAKE SURE HUB IS IN FREE WHEEL SETTING,
before removing, or things can fly everywhere.
Undo the little bolts.
Remove carefully, as they can stick a bit, and pull apart.
Then remove circlip on end of shaft that sticks out.
Then free wheel hub comes off.

reassemble clean, with only small amounts of grease
(too much grease can jam up the mechanism)
Make sure use good gaskets and/or gasket goo.
Water kills thiongs otherwise.
Free wheel hub only goes in one way,
so dont force it.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:01 am 
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Hub should be ok.
If You can get the busted bolts out.
There should be a few AZ members with spare bolts close by,
if You can't find new ones

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:12 am 
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yeah Alex. love some help mate. u free tomoz avo? or wednesday avo?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:30 am 
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Yeah i can help you out tomorrow arvo. i work in brissie but should be back on the coast between 5 and 5.30.
you got a shed or somewhere to work on it with good light?
or you could bring it around my place but we would have to work on the driveway, not a big issue.
As i said before it wont be getting fixed tomorrow as you'll obviously need to get some parts but we can sus out the situation and find out what you do and dont need. i'll text you tomorrow arvo when i know what time i'm knocking off.

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