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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 12:41 am 
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I made twin sticks, i was surprised at how easy it actually was. Why you would do it? it gives you the option of 2Low, 4low, 2high, 4high and a true neutral. I think it also looks really 8) Anyway, to save $200 plus freight i decided to work it out myself :D

If you look carefully, i drilled a hole through the ball, it's not in the right spot i drilled it a bit too low on the ball. I only found this out when i put it in and i couldn't get 4low. I then took the 7mm pin out and it found all the gear very easily.

Take one standard sierra transfer lever, and cut it down the slotted section, i used a 1mm cutting disk, it probably won't work if you use a 3mm as it would take to much meat away from the stick.
Image

To replace what i cut out i used a piece of 0.9gal plate i had around, it was way to thin and i probably took out more like 1.5mm as there is vibration in the disk and no one is that accurate to keep it straight up and down.
Image
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At this point you need to slide the spring and attachment cup onto the sticks. Do this now as later it won't be possibly.
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so that's the bottom end done, i grabbed another stick, cut the ball off and split it down the middle till i found the weld joint that it comes factory with. the cut one side off.
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So once you have it in the lever hole in the Tcase, work out how much you will need to bend the stick to get them to clear each other, then, the bits that touch the shifting rods need to be bent out the right amount to fit nice and firmly, and not sloppy.

I forgot to take photo's of this next section but, i had to cut the stick i had just played with into a wedge shape, along the still round side. This is because it had to clear the other stick, i had to do it to both piece's. Here is it in and functioning :D
Image

I still need to use this Tcase, so not sure what it will be like in the real world, and im going to by some industrial strength rubber gloves cut some holes and hose clamp it to the sticks, not sure what ill do about the boot in the car...

Hope this helps :D

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 12:52 am 
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nice work, gold star for nutting it out & DIY'ing it!

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 1:13 am 
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this may sound dumb but i dont get. How's it work and can u make me one

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 1:34 am 
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Ahh, i think there is merit with having a welded front like i do, and just running one hub locked in in 2low so still going slow and not having way heavy steering, then just knocking it into 4wd and driving it. Grab you stick of choice and pull or push depending on what you want, you can have any combo you like.

Shift pattern looks like this.

Stick 1...........Stick 2
low................4wd
nuetral
high...............2wd

I should have also mentioned that you will need to remove the denten ball inside of the Tcase this is very inprotant as it doesn't work without taking it out.

$100 to make them, and what ever postage. If you want to lower the cost to $50 plus postage, post me 2 sticks.

cheers atari :D

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:11 am 
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Good work Josh,

Ill commission you to do some for me one day soon. low range 2wd sounds good.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:19 am 
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You can also do this by cutting a new gate into the shift rod while the box is apart , only needing one shifter , Cheers Paul.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:36 am 
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when we lux your shortie ill just do it then ;)

Thats inventive paul, i've never heard of that being done before :D i think i like 2 sticks still...

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:42 am 
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Well done mate. That's nice work.
Would be interesting to see how it stands up to time and work.
I like the idea just cause it looks cool. :-)

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:29 am 
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Cool! 8)
The boot seems the only pain....

Hmmm, I got a few spare LJ transfers, might have a play and make one for my LJ80 :D

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:27 pm 
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i like it!

i will be doing this! thanks very much for the info

where can u get the duel lever boot from?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:08 pm 
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31zook wrote:
Shift pattern looks like this.

Stick 1...........Stick 2
low................4wd
nuetral
high...............2wd



So the advantage is you can select 2wd low whilst still having the hubs locked?
If you still have a front locker this won't make any differance?

I fail to see the big advantage.

Can someone explain this abit more

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Im not sure there is much more to explain OT. I guess it's just like a spoa looks cool, but usless. The one hub locked in is the trick, this way the navi only needs to lock one in and the rest of the time the driver has no heavy steering.

My big plus is, i've got a front locker, twin sticks and it cost me some time, gear oil and gaskit goo. cheaply does it...

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 7:41 pm 
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oxygenthief wrote:
31zook wrote:
Sh





So the advantage is you can select 2wd low whilst still having the hubs locked?
If you still have a front locker this won't make any differance?

I fail to see the big advantage.

Can someone explain this abit more


Pretty much, just wank factor, how long does it take to slip the hubs in? and if the navi only has one hub to put in, wouldnt you lock the hubs before starting a comp?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:04 pm 
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i think the idea is for when you have a front locker you can put it in 2 low and do i tight turn then go back to 4 low.

good work

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:52 pm 
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A simple application I can see straight up, is people like me can have 2wd low in cars like my LJ80, that don't have FWH's; good for sealed surfaces. There are other applications, but meh if you don't want it, don't do it :)

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:05 am 
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Brett wrote:
i think the idea is for when you have a front locker you can put it in 2 low and do i tight turn then go back to 4 low.

good work


but if the hubs are still locked if the diff is still active.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:07 am 
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no with a auto locker the should only stay locked when under power. 2wd low no power to the front so the wheels can turn at different speeds

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:53 am 
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I just removed the detent ball - you very quickly get used to shifting both gates with the one lever. The great advantage is that you can drive in 2WD Low. I find that a brilliant aid to developing driving abilitiy - trying to drive steep, rocky ascents in 2WD to learn to pick the best line ... leave the hubs locked in and then if I get stuck I can drop it into 4WD Low to get out of trouble.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:57 am 
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Brett wrote:
no with a auto locker the should only stay locked when under power. 2wd low no power to the front so the wheels can turn at different speeds


Your right. I was thinking of a welded front.
I still like the idea of an air locker up front.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:35 am 
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oxygenthief wrote:
Brett wrote:
no with a auto locker the should only stay locked when under power. 2wd low no power to the front so the wheels can turn at different speeds


Your right. I was thinking of a welded front.
I still like the idea of an air locker up front.


So do i, I like the thought of twin airlockers. But a whole setup parts only is worth more than a sierra. So alot of people don't like the idea.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:55 am 
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well done 31zook, how about slipping a copy over to the tech articles :)

the rest of you there are plenty of threads already about the benefits of 2wd low however you select it, this isnt a thread to discuss the merits :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:50 pm 
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just stick it in there royce. i've no issues with that ;)

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 1:14 am 
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You should be using 4wd low 1st when going down steep ascents MOPH , your crazy if you arn't , use the engine to slow you down and if you get into trouble you already have the front engaged , Cheers Paul.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:20 am 
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Lowrangeoffroad twin stick boot.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... boots.html
Vinyl as pictured OR rubber available.
Image

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:21 am 
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Um yeah they do the top boot, but the bottom one is the one no body fabs...

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Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 7:21 am 
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i did this to my vit its great i made my top boot like the bottom one it took so long to make by hand
to make the sticks stronger i cut the stick off the ball then cut the 2 balls on a angle then welded the stick back on where they cleared each other that way you are not loosing any meat on the leg

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Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:34 am 
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31zook - just a word of caution about running without the "interlock" or centre detent ball removed - The transfer can, and will, pop into neutral whilst in 2WD.

Mine does this under certain circumstances on the highway, and as there's no syncro in the transfer, you have to stop to re engage the transfer.

I've fitted an evil twin kit (which does come with the lower boot) but for my own car I'm looking at the modified shift rails offered by Trail Tough.

Well done though- looks very good.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun May 16, 2010 8:35 am 
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31zook wrote:
Um yeah they do the top boot, but the bottom one is the one no body fabs...

31zook wrote:
I......... not sure what ill do about the boot in the car...

That is why I posted this....

want33s wrote:
Lowrangeoffroad twin stick boot.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... boots.html
Vinyl as pictured OR rubber available.
Image

Rocky road do a rubber boot that could be made to seal the transfer quite easily...... or even easier..... just select 2 low with the one stick. It's easy.

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Post Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 9:05 am 
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Gwagon, is yo ass serious? I hope mine don't do that, that will really shorten the time it in there....

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Post Posted: Mon May 17, 2010 12:28 pm 
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MART wrote:
You should be using 4wd low 1st when going down steep ascents MOPH , your crazy if you arn't , use the engine to slow you down and if you get into trouble you already have the front engaged , Cheers Paul.


If I was going down steep ascents then they'd be descents. Because I'm going up them they're ascents ;) :P

And yup I do use 4WD Low 1st when descending anything tricky.

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