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Post Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:59 pm 
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4 will be fine :D

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 9:29 am 
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ajsr wrote:
I might add if your not able to weld with reasonalble confidence now is the time to stop and do a half ruf.


This is what I'm about to do, so how far back do I need to redrill the hanger?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 9:44 am 
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25mm should do it.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:01 am 
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I assume that I should redrill back and up at an angle to keep the hole the same distance from the bottom edge if the hanger?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:17 am 
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In theory, but too high up and the spring wont fit back in :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 7:47 pm 
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I did this the other day but instead of having the box section extension I plated and triangled the end of the chassis, hope it holds up
It's easy on a nt then wt

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:47 am 
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Would std LJ rears be ok for doing a RUF?
My Sierra rears are in pretty ordinary condition (bent main) and i have the LJ springs.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:25 pm 
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Should be doing this conversion on the weekend since i rooted my front springs last weekend and what i have now is too low.

My currant shackles are 90mm but was thinking of making another set of std length shackles to use. I have 25mm bumpstop extensions and commo shocks. ATM i only have 10mm (if that) bumpstop clearance, sits nose down.

The LJ rears i have measure 1010mm eye to eye (flat), 965 eye to eye (unloaded) with 405mm free camber. Centre bolt is 495mm from fixed end.
Will stick maybe 40 or 50mm onto the front of the chassis.

I want to push the diff as far forward as i can without running into steering issues (std steering). Any simple ways around this if it dose foul, bar moving steering box or shifting diff back on the springs?

Ajsr, the shackle angle in the second pic, is this what i will be looking for.......compressed to bump stop?

Shackle angle at full droop? Is it something to consider during setup?

What sorta lift can i expect? She has a bit of weight over the front with a steel bar and 9000lb winch. I will be changing my (shagged) rears for OME 40mm rears in the next few weeks. I'm thinking around 1 1/2" - 2" bumpstop clearance would be nice. Raised f & R shock mounts will be next on the list.

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Post Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 9:17 am 
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vl2dy4 wrote:
Fantastic write up mate what is the main benifits of doing RUF?

Please list them for me.

Conrad


About 4" more droop ( when you start with 5" stock, that's a lot)

Much better ride - a rear spring is about 35% softer than a front, but holds the height because it has more arch from stock.

Axle comes forward 40mm with full RUF like AJSR's. That's room for a bigger tyre with less firewall work.

Better balance - the car's centre of gravity moves rearward as the axle comes forward. Add in the increased wheel travel and the car is miles less likely to pick up front wheels when climbing or rear wheels when descending, so the car is much more trustworthy offroad.

Steve

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Post Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 9:32 am 
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This is how RUF totally changes the way the car works. This car is pointing downhill but is balanced and stable. With stock front suspension, it will want to follow the nose and pick a rear wheel up, which can pretty quickly turn into a roll.

Image

(Sorry for the Hijack Andrew)

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Post Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 10:22 am 
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another example of what steve is talking about
Image

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Post Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 10:55 pm 
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Hey Aj, you didn't weld uncleaned gal and then grind your MIG weld back did you?

If you did it might not be the strongest weld. Would probably hold up but certainly not what "should" be done.

At least you got a project done without an explosion.

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Post Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 10:46 am 
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sierrajim wrote:
Hey Aj, you didn't weld uncleaned gal and then grind your MIG weld back did you?

If you did it might not be the strongest weld. Would probably hold up but certainly not what "should" be done.

At least you got a project done without an explosion.


no gal on the welded area :wink: I promise. and the end of the the rail was blasted clean too

besides most of what I weld these days is gal to gal and I'm pretty good at it now after 10 or so years :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 8:24 pm 
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is that SPOA or SPUA?

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 9:14 pm 
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It's neither. He did ruf.

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 9:27 pm 
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Hotshot993 wrote:
It's neither. He did ruf.

It bs to be one or the other :D

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 9:34 pm 
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oh my bad lol, haha its not spoa, that correct?

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 10:17 pm 
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Yea gwagens would be spua, ajsr looks the same but he did have spoa on that rig at some point

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Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 10:24 pm 
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Yeah I wasn't thinking when I answered I thought the guy was asking if he did a spoa or something? My bad lol.
Yeah they both look sweet.

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Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 5:00 am 
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pretty crazy how moving it forward 2 to 3 cm's makes a huge difference that pretty awsome look relitivly easy nice work mate on the thread thank alot for your help will be doing this this weekend

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Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 8:36 am 
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Hey Royce, can we put this in good tech?? Just so I don't have to go looking for it when I get around to doing my full ruff

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Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 8:37 am 
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ajsr wrote:

Image

Image


Excuse my ignorance
But looking at these pics it looks like you have only moved the spring hanger forward by 15-20mm or so.

So whats the reson for such a large chassis extension?

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Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 8:38 am 
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matt.scorgie wrote:
pretty crazy how moving it forward 2 to 3 cm's makes a huge difference that pretty awsome look relitivly easy nice work mate on the thread thank alot for your help will be doing this this weekend


It's not the 2-3cms that makes the difference, it's the 80mm longer spring with a 30% lower rate.

Do bear in mind, it is relatively easy, but it's also relatively easy to get it wrong. The relationship between chassis extension length, spring length, bumpstop length and shackle length can be fiddly to get right. Get it wrong and your caster will be screwy, you might get limited droop or excessive ride height.

Note that AJSR hasn't posted exact measurements here - he's just shown what to do to get the right result.

He also hasn't added shock mount work either - they have to be moved and refabricated.

In my opinion, this mod needs to be done with your intended tyres too, so you can work on clearances and guard cutting so you can get the bumpstop spacing right.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:12 am 
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rolly95 wrote:
is that SPOA or SPUA?

it will be spua

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:22 am 
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UBZNZ wrote:
ajsr wrote:

Image

Image


Excuse my ignorance
But looking at these pics it looks like you have only moved the spring hanger forward by 15-20mm or so.

So whats the reson for such a large chassis extension?

see that extra hole in the extension , thats the reason I wanted to mount the front bar to some proper mounts and that gives me 3 mounting holes with crush tubes a side to mount it off.

you would need all that extension and maybe more if you were doing this mod using standard lenght shackles.

bear in mind this is going to be an off road only rig as the extended shackles will make it run fairly loose in the front.

standard or shorter shackles will make a ruf drive much better

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:25 am 
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santa has landed from the usa :wink:
Image
more parts from guess who
front shocks 30" open :D

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:33 am 
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Better lock up the shed mate, or else a 'wombat' may wonder by and snuffle them :lol:
Good write up also, keep it coming!

Dave

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:34 am 
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did it work?
I think so :D
Image

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:46 am 
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armsup

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:00 am 
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That looks awesome.
How many leafs are you running in the front?
Will you be extending the front factory bump stops or is that not needed with the guard chop?

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