[foonji]

Awesome work

[joeblow]

you should consider looking into the adr's of bullbar construction to make sure you cover you're arse.

[hayden1992]

just wondering if anyone has the detailed pics and or measurements for this build? cheers

[nandor85]

I do cause I built it lol

[hayden1992]

Could you please sned me them so i could fabriate one my self?

[motagraff]

Would you be interested in making one for a round crossmember vitara? 1st Gen? With winch mount. I'd be happy to pay 700+ postage for something like that. Love your work mate

[nandor85]

would need to be able to test fit cause I have no sizes to go off sorry

[Big_Al]

Hey Nandor,

I am currently planning on fabricating a bumper similar to what you have made, to suit my GV SQ625.

Just wondering if you have any helpful tips or problems you came across?

Thanks, Al.

[Gwagensteve]

Nandor hasn't been on here for 4 years, so It's unlikely you'll get much luck there. I've built some bars though, although nothing as big or complex as an SG625 bar. I don't know what you've fabricated before, a bull bar is a very significant fabrication project. The rewards are great though.

Here's my tips:

Don't go crazy with thickness. 3.0mm is plenty.
Maintaining dimensional accuracy is very difficult. If you're building the bar onto the front of the car as the "template" expect to be surprised how far things move when you remove and replace the bar for welding etc.
Spend lots of time looking at existing bar designs. They will show you what's buildable. It's very easy to "design" a bar in your head and then find it's impossible to produce because it can't be welded/bent etc.
Consider finding a cheap second had bar with the design elements you wan. For an ARB style bar, Range rover bars, for example, are plentiful and make excellent donors because they have complex shapes and folds that are very hard to copy at home, but they're also very wide, which means it's easy to cut the bar down to make it fit. This is easier than stretching an existing bar. Nandor had access to a big folder and some experienced tradies from what I read.

Buy material. A sheet of 3.0mm steel might seem expensive but then you have enough material to make mistakes, and you're working with fresh, clean material, not offcuts and profiles.

It will take much, much longer than you expect to get a good result.

If something is wonky or doesn't look right, don't soldier on. Bin it and start again with that piece. Trying to make something fit or pretending that it will look ok once painted etc is wasting your time.
Pay attention to weight and be mindful of strength to weight. I'm well known for my speed holes and they're not for everyone but there's no place for a bar that's heavier than it needs to be. a bar is only as strong as the chassis it's bolted to. making the bar out of 5.0mm and weigh 70kg won't help anything - when you hit something the bar will break off the chassis and you'll drive over it.

Spend lots of time mocking it up with card, or ideally 3.0mm fibreboard/MDF. Using material for mockup that's the same thickness as the actual steel means you're not "cheating" bends or clearances and once you cut it out in steel it should actually fit rather than needing everything tweaked.

As was pointed out - pay attention to the ADR's for bar manufacture in relation to radii etc. no point spending lots of time on a bar and getting a canary because its too sharp/isn't deemed to "follow the lines of the vehicle" etc.