[remydog05]

remy, if you dig up the other j20 thread you can see my gearbox crossmember mount. the rubber is the standard vit mount turned sideways.
and if your original radiator is clagged i wouldn't spend money to buy another on. get one made up to fit, save a bit of fiddly fab work.

Yeah I saw that thanks mate, I think my crossmember will be very simlar.
The only thing I like about the J20a Radiator for me is that I get to use the stock Auto cooler in the bottom of the radiator. But as you said a PITA to fit!
Im thinking the 1.6 one recored and pipes swapped will be best.

[remydog05]

My tunnel is almost the same, I have cut it out yesterday and today the aim is

Engine mounts cut off the chassis and re welded 25-30mm back.
Crossmember made and mounted
Tunnel welded back in.
But it all depends on how much realwork we need to do at the same time! (paid)

I have a Chassis ext with Jimny PS so Im thinking the 1.6 rad should still go in there OK and all going well a Puller fan in the inside, if not I will have too get a 1.3 rad and recore it. (i had one a sold it about 3weeks ago!)

Im spewing I didnt take the feul lines off the GV before sending it to the scraper now. DOH!

Pete how are you bolting you gearbox to the actual Xmember? Using the stock rubber mount? Or just solid gearbox to the steel?

Will try and get some pics of mine up on the weekend.

[remydog05]

Oh yeah and Pete did you move your heater tap when you put the J20a booster in?

[Fatzook]

Metal on metal for the gearbox mount. I figured with the rubber bushes at either end it would have enough movement.

And yes I removed the heater tap to fit the booster. I am yet to relocate it, but it can only go in one or two places.

[Fatzook]

Ok I just tried everything I can think of to fit the J20 booster and its just too deep. 120mm. Whereas the Vit 1.6LWB booster is barely 70mm. So I will have to do as Tanshi has done and use the 1.6 booster and 2.0 master cylinder.

[tanshi]

just make sure you adjust the rod, on the booster, there is a small nut, 10mm i think that you need to wind in just slightly to make it same length as the one in the 2lt booster.

[Fatzook]

yep. WIll do.

Did your master cylinder swap straight over without any mods?

[tanshi]

yep, just some slight bending of brake lines, oh and i filled in one of the two threaded inputs for brake lines cos there was two on the end closest the front. one on top and one on the side. i think the vitara used two one for each side on the front??

[remydog05]

I think I may have missed something?
I just massaged the hole out and it slipped straight in fine.
But Pete your saying the rod that hooks up to the brake pedal is too long?
Or the booster depth (Firewall out towards the engine bay) is too long to match in with the J20a engine?
(I havent even looked yet, the car is not here)

[Fatzook]

remydog05 wrote:

I think I may have missed something?
I just massaged the hole out and it slipped straight in fine.
But Pete your saying the rod that hooks up to the brake pedal is too long?
Or the booster depth (Firewall out towards the engine bay) is too long to match in with the J20a engine?
(I havent even looked yet, the car is not here)

Tanshi said the rod length to pedal needs adjusting.

I was talking about the booster depth. If you run the 2.0 booster you will have to chop the arse out of the sump, or move the diff forward 40-50mm.

Sounds like Tanshis hybrid will be the best method in a sierra.

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

remydog05 wrote:

I think I may have missed something?
I just massaged the hole out and it slipped straight in fine.
But Pete your saying the rod that hooks up to the brake pedal is too long?
Or the booster depth (Firewall out towards the engine bay) is too long to match in with the J20a engine?
(I havent even looked yet, the car is not here)

Tanshi said the rod length to pedal needs adjusting.

I was talking about the booster depth. If you run the 2.0 booster you will have to chop the arse out of the sump, or move the diff forward 40-50mm.

Sounds like Tanshis hybrid will be the best method in a sierra.

So your saying the depth of the booster will make the MC hit the J20 inlet side and the only way to get around this would be mount the engine forward, therefore the sump would hit the front diff? We are re fitting the engine 2moro, I guess Im about to find out the hardway because Ive bolted it in!

[Fatzook]

The back of my intake plenum would strike the booster itself by well over 30mm If I fitted the 2.0 booster. To counteract this, the motor would have to be moved forward to the point where you would be better off to reverse the sump completely to clear the front 3rd member and axle housing. And my diff is already 50mm forward, so yours will be way worse.

If you do manage to fit the booster and motor in ther please take some pics, cos I want to know how to do it

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

If you do manage to fit the booster and motor in ther please take some pics, cos I want to know how to do it

Will do

[remydog05]

remydog05 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

If you do manage to fit the booster and motor in ther please take some pics, cos I want to know how to do it

Will do

Good News and bad news!

Good news for me it worked! Bad news is yours dont????
Im not sure why? The only thing I can think of is that your booster is different to mine?

My J20A is
Using the TT mounts in there stock way un modded (tanshi moved them 30mm)
I have a 85 LWB Factory 1.3 chassis eng mounts are both moved 25-28mm closer to the firewall. My Crossmember that the AW4 factory rubber mount is now sitting on in the pics is level with the bottom of the chassis rails, and and is a piece of 65mm wide RHS wedged up into the remains of the old gearbox cross member. I have about 35 to 40mm clearance behind the engine. And its clears the J20a Booster and MC, that I placed the after we put the eng/auto back in.

The only thing I can think of is that your is different or ?? well I dont know??
Is your gearbox lower than mine therefore eng sitting leaning back more???
Is got me buggered?

My biggest headache is trying to figure out what radiator to use? My 1.6 is a plastic top tank and the core is stuffed so I dont think it can be recored and outlets changed?
My J20a one is stuffed in the core and will be hard to fit in there but it would be great to use the factory auto cooler at the bottom of it.
So mmm
Buy the one from Lowrange which bolts to the factory 1.3 radiator mounts?
Recore or buy new and somehow mount the J20a one?
Or recore and reoulet and somehow mount the 1.6 one I have?
Not sure which will be cheapest of best?
Would one of the ones the Want33's has been selling work??

How it sits




Clarence to the firewall and booster, its gunna be tricky getting the heater hose right.


This is how much I dremeled out the hole, about 1mm


You can see the line where the old Eng position was


This shows the larger J20a Booster and I dont know exactly what the smaller one is as it was on the car when I got it. I was thinking jimny but now Im thinking vit??

[Fatzook]

Cool. I'll get some pics of mine tomorrow.

I encountered my own unique set of problems today, most of which are brought about by having started with a 1L sierra tub.

1. The absence of ANY booster means that the firewall is wrong for just bolting on a booster. So I had to cut the section of firewall out of the SV420 and graft into the ute.

2. Because the J20 is sitting so far back against the firewall (>10mm), there is still no room for the J20 booster. So I tried a LWB vit booster and J20 master cylinder. It cleared the back of the intake plenum, so I thought I had it solved. That is until I tried to pass the steering column through th firewall and it hit the back of the booster. (diameter 220mm)

3. So I had to make a hybrid setup. The master cylinder is the J20 unit. And with a shortened rod, I have used the booster from a 8v TBI vitara. Its 75mm deep and only 180mm in diameter, So it clears the engine and the steering knuckle/shaft.

4. so with the crap on the other side of the firewall sorted I bolted the pedal box in to the cab. I used a NT 1.3L pedal box so that the booster had the correct bolt arrangement and bore size for the booster. It was then that I found that the hole PCD on the NT 1L pedal box sat 15mm lower than the NT 1.3 pedal box, so I had to modify that so that the steering colum lined up with the pedal box and dash bar.

5. Next issue that I have found, that has not been sorted yet is that the clutch slave cylinder wants to sit in the same place as the drain vent from the cowl panel under the windscreen. So I will have to re-route this lower down and to the side for the drain to work.

[Fatzook]

Remy I notice that you don't have your steering column in. Does it fit through under the booster?

I think its also worth noting that you have a body lift and may experience less clearance issues because of that.

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

Cool. I'll get some pics of mine tomorrow.

I encountered my own unique set of problems today, most of which are brought about by having started with a 1L sierra tub.

1. The absence of ANY booster means that the firewall is wrong for just bolting on a booster. So I had to cut the section of firewall out of the SV420 and graft into the ute.

2. Because the J20 is sitting so far back against the firewall (>10mm), there is still no room for the J20 booster. So I tried a LWB vit booster and J20 master cylinder. It cleared the back of the intake plenum, so I thought I had it solved. That is until I tried to pass the steering column through th firewall and it hit the back of the booster. (diameter 220mm)

3. So I had to make a hybrid setup. The master cylinder is the J20 unit. And with a shortened rod, I have used the booster from a 8v TBI vitara. Its 75mm deep and only 180mm in diameter, So it clears the engine and the steering knuckle/shaft.

4. so with the crap on the other side of the firewall sorted I bolted the pedal box in to the cab. I used a NT 1.3L pedal box so that the booster had the correct bolt arrangement and bore size for the booster. It was then that I found that the hole PCD on the NT 1L pedal box sat 15mm lower than the NT 1.3 pedal box, so I had to modify that so that the steering colum lined up with the pedal box and dash bar.

5. Next issue that I have found, that has not been sorted yet is that the clutch slave cylinder wants to sit in the same place as the drain vent from the cowl panel under the windscreen. So I will have to re-route this lower down and to the side for the drain to work.

Mate youve been waayyyy busy!

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

Remy I notice that you don't have your steering column in. Does it fit through under the booster?

I think its also worth noting that you have a body lift and may experience less clearance issues because of that.

mmmmm Thats a good question?? Hope your wrong! LOL eg it fits with no issues. Opps I didnt say I had a body lift did i
I had the comlumn out so I could get the to pedal because I made the brake pedal into a Auto one yesterday (wider) and by taking out the steering I could get to the booster bolts way better, thats the only reason.

This is a pic of the column in with the other booster, not the J20a.
Looks like it still has some clearance to go. I hope


This is again the size of each booster that I have.
As a unit they are the same length but the j20 is just larger in the diameter of the booster.


I think I may get away with it "Just"
Any idea what the other booster I have is???

[Fatzook]

Your booster has the plastic barb for the vacuum line. I have seen that many times on sierras. Are you sure its not just a standard booster?

And as for being busy, well with 2 other blokes doing the same conversion at the same time, I just don't think I could tolerate the " this thing is fucken awesome" comments for very long. So time to get cracking on mine

Tanshi.... You said you used a 1.6 estate booster on yours. I tried fitting one of those and it too interfered with my steering column

[tanshi]

nah, standard 1.3 sierra booster, v6 vit master cyl. estate calapers.

got my wiring, finished. computer mounted, cluster modded with VSS

had it running for about 10 mins yesterday. fark it sounds AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[remydog05]

tanshi wrote:

nah, standard 1.3 sierra booster, v6 vit master cyl. estate calapers.

got my wiring, finished. computer mounted, cluster modded with VSS

had it running for about 10 mins yesterday. fark it sounds AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got any pics of where your extractors meet near your Chassis Rail?
What did you end up doing to get it all clearing?

[tanshi]

i didnt see this before i left the parents, i will grab pics mid week.

im going out there to fit up tail shafts and do a lap of the block

[mr.green]

[quote="Fatzook] Sump shouldn't be too bad. [/quote]





i was hoping the same thing i was looking to take 40mm out of the fronT of the sump to clear my new tie rod.

oil pump hangs down 80mm. pan is around 93ish...........

damn ride height will have to go up anther 1.5"
NOT HAPPY JAN!

[Fatzook]

Nuts!

Any better pics of the oil pump from below and from the side?

[Fatzook]

Founds some pics. What a mess





Might be making a custom Panhard to TRY to clear the sump now

[JrZook]

WTF shit design is that? Chain driven oil pump? Wonder why they didn't leave it simple as on the G series engines.

[Fatzook]

JrZook wrote:

WTF shit design is that? Chain driven oil pump? Wonder why they didn't leave it simple as on the G series engines.

I'm onto it. Got 3 hrs sleep last night but may have an external pump solution

Does anyone have an exploded view of the timing chan and crank case arrangement for the J20? I need to know if the oil pump is the only thing being driven off that little chain.

[Highway-Star]

Fatzook wrote:

JrZook wrote:

WTF shit design is that? Chain driven oil pump? Wonder why they didn't leave it simple as on the G series engines.

I'm onto it. Got 3 hrs sleep last night but may have an external pump solution

Does anyone have an exploded view of the timing chan and crank case arrangement for the J20? I need to know if the oil pump is the only thing being driven off that little chain.

A little disjointed, but pictures of timing chain, and then oil pump on one of the SV420 variants:





There are other variants, which had me confused...... turns out they are diesel engines....lol

[Fatzook]

cool. So lookating at that diagram it would be easy to just remove the oil pump and chain.

[Highway-Star]

By the looks of it, the pump runs off of a sprocket on the crankshaft, not one in the timing case. I can't see any sign of anything else using it...

JrZook wrote:

WTF shit design is that? Chain driven oil pump? Wonder why they didn't leave it simple as on the G series engines.

I would "guess" its for a packaging requirement. The original J motor as far as I can tell was the J18 for the SY418 Baleno. I'd guess that the normal oil pump like the G series engines run would add length to the engine. Its possible that in the Baleno they had a finite engine length they could work with (ie engine bay width). So they shoved the oil pump into a void space in that car?