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Post Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:54 am 
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The old alternator in the Jim was about to crap itself so I set out to find a better solution and this is what I have come with.

Image

Its a 120 amp unit of a 1HZ and goes in with what is essentially bugger all screwing around, all bracketry is the same, same plug and power out position,
the body is a bit bigger and longer but with the following mods will go in.

1) Old pulley will have to drilled out to 17mm as the Toyota unit has a bigger shaft.
2) Rear studs holding the rear plate on have to be shortened (hacksaw or dremel).
3) Signal wire will have to be installed from the rear of the alternator (s terminal) to the battery +.

Heres pics of size comparison.
Image

Image

Not real easy to get a pic of it installed but this will have to do.

Image

Easy job all in all, maybe 2 hours start to finish, costs involved

1 x alternator $150-300 depending on new or used
1 x 17mm drill bit $45.00
1 x New alt plug $17.00

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squizz

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:07 am 
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That's an awesome mod. Bear in mind though 1HZ alternators have a history of melting of you ask too much of them. It was quite the talk of the Landcruiser club for a while there - apparently the rear bearing housing melts off them.

I'm sure it's easily an equal of the falcon upgrade, but the 1Hz alternator is dearer.

Steve.

PS that data sheet you posted looks like its from a Chinese copy? It would be interesting to see how they compare to a factory (Nippondenso?) alternator on a test bench.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:32 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
That's an awesome mod. Bear in mind though 1HZ alternators have a history of melting of you ask too much of them. It was quite the talk of the Landcruiser club for a while there - apparently the rear bearing housing melts off them.

I'm sure it's easily an equal of the falcon upgrade, but the 1Hz alternator is dearer.

Steve.

PS that data sheet you posted looks like its from a Chinese copy? It would be interesting to see how they compare to a factory (Nippondenso?) alternator on a test bench.


I worked for the company that imported them for a few years only leaving recently Steve, they are actually Malaysian made but are of excellent quality (there is Asian quality and Asian quality), in fact I only recall seeing 2 warranties in over 2 years of selling them and many were sold into the mining sector without issue.
They run a genuine ND reg and rectifier and use Japanese bearings. The big thing for me with this mod was that there is no altering of any brackets and the system can be returned to standard with a minimum of fuss if required. Given that the original unit which is rated at 70 amps was holding up to the load OK, I don't expect too much trouble from this one.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:40 am 
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Cool. As I said I'm sure it will be fine and it's a sweet mod.

AFAIK this mod will also apply to any G engined car.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:44 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Cool. As I said I'm sure it will be fine and it's a sweet mod.

AFAIK this mod will also apply to any G engined car.

Steve.


It should work with any G engine with a ribbed belt set up, I suspect some earlier Vits and Sierras had "odd" sized pivoting mounts on the alternators though as I looked at them when looking for an upgrade.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:38 am 
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G'day Squizz

Great mod mate.

Will this work for all Jimny's - M13A and VVT?

Cheers

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 am 
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Good work!

Dear Scrawn, sorry about the bad things I said about you, ill take 2 thanks :)

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:15 pm 
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well i am off to the dump tomorrow. i have a idea for more auctions :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:20 pm 
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Apology accepted :blink: Have no idea what your talking about though!!! :D

shit happens then you drink it!!!!!!!

Built a house and me first car from the tip!!!

Now I'm just confused.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:29 pm 
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there would be at least 50 1hz landcrusers at the dump here.
i cut some rust repair patches out of a 2005 troopie today, they are literately laying around everywhere.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:39 pm 
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shep wrote:
well i am off to the dump tomorrow. i have a idea for more auctions :wink:


should chuck a couple of high mounts up for auction 8)

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:25 pm 
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Moag wrote:
G'day Squizz

Great mod mate.

Will this work for all Jimny's - M13A and VVT?

Cheers


Possibly, but check the overall length of the pivot leg on the alt, should be 58mm. Irrespectively I suspect it can be made work with some bashing and cutting. This was a very tight fit in the Jim too.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 10:28 am 
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Cheers Squizzy, :D

I don't have huge extra loads in may 2001 Jim
as nearly all my lights are now LED's and no sub - the main reason for giving this a go will be for charging an extra battery and accessories (while touring at night when all the critters are out) Solar keeps up when the suns out.

Had a bit of a look at the measurement and looks pretty close but will have to take it out to be certain and will post results here when i get around to it.

In the planning stage at the moment and got other pressing stuff to finish and fix including 15 years dental work to catch up with. so down the list a bit ay :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:15 pm 
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Moag wrote:
Cheers Squizzy, :D

I don't have huge extra loads in may 2001 Jim
as nearly all my lights are now LED's and no sub - the main reason for giving this a go will be for charging an extra battery and accessories (while touring at night when all the critters are out) Solar keeps up when the suns out.

Had a bit of a look at the measurement and looks pretty close but will have to take it out to be certain and will post results here when i get around to it.

In the planning stage at the moment and got other pressing stuff to finish and fix including 15 years dental work to catch up with. so down the list a bit ay :wink:


The only area that is real close are the studs on the rear cover of the alt but they can be cut down, it leaves about 5mm clearance to the engine mount. Most of the lights on mine are LED as well but I regularly use a compressor and have future plans for a winch as well as dual batteries so the extra amps will be used eventually.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 4:51 am 
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So this should work on a normal G13a?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:28 am 
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Junior_91 wrote:
So this should work on a normal G13a?


as above check the dimensions of the oem unit, plug will probably be different, mounting arms may have different sizes.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 2:42 am 
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has anyone done this on a m13a yet?

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:44 pm 
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Going to give this a crack tomorrow as my alternator just not up to the task anymore with 8 narva spotties, 9500lb winch, fridge, compressor, UHF, gps,stereo, 2 x hid kits, dual batteries to charge etc. I bought a brand new 1hz 110 amp unit and hope this will cope!

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:02 am 
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Hi guys got stuck into it on the weekend..... Was quite a mission for me really, the swap of alternator is pretty basic in itself, the hardest part was trying to unplug the wiring from the back of original unit, I got half way through this mod whilst doing other things as well, radiator, thermostat, thermo fan, etc etc and realised I don't own a 17mm drill bit! 3hrs of driving, calling, swearing and still no drill bit! I ended up buying a 16mm and filing the rest out.... Pain in the ass never again job! My only concerns are the Suzuki wiring harness has 2 wires going to the plug at alternator and the 1hz unit uses 3, now I constantly have my battery light on, it is working as I have dual battery charge display but the dash light is constantly on. Can anyone help with which wire needs to be bridged to stop the dash light?
One word of advice if you consider doing this mod.... Get a 17mm drill bit lined up beforehand!!

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:05 am 
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nice work dude.
Pics??
do you have a m13?


oh and as per the OP post.
Quote:
3) Signal wire will have to be installed from the rear of the alternator (s terminal) to the battery +.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:44 am 
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Thanks scales, sorry bud didn't do the pic thing as was really pressed for time and completely stressed about finding a drill bit! I must say it works great with a waeco cf40 fridge running @ -5 constantly( never gets turned off even when car not in use) 400cca start battery/120ah deep cycle battery, 6 x 175 narva roof mount spotties, 2 x 225 100w hid narva spotties, 9500lb winch, stereo, 55w hid headlights, heater constantly running when car running, dr air compressor 150ltr/min all these running flat out it still charging the batteries @ 13.1v!! The original alternator was struggling at 12.2v with half this stuff running!!
And this is on 13bb engine

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:42 pm 
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I see they now sell a 140 amp 1HZ alternator. I wondering it will be a little over kill to power my winch? 12000 pound 6hp.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:44 am 
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Nope never overkill when it comes to winching! My 9500lb gets a workout every weekend and constantly pulling out 80 series cruiser, pootrol gu, vitara and my jimny and when the winching gets tough the load is exceptionally high as I have seen my volt meter drop from 14.4v down to 8.8v whilst winching with 110a wish I had bigger

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:00 am 
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Hmm I had this mod fail dismally on the Jimny this morning. If you undertake this mod UPGRADE the wiring from alternator to battery as it has killed my jimny and now I have massive electrical failure! Car in auto sparky as we speak hopefully not to much damage done!

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:24 pm 
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What your saying bigdogdazza is you should have run a higher amperage lead off the alternater to your battery to handle the power draw????

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:28 pm 
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more to his story here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34750

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:19 pm 
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Im looking at this mod for my Jimny. Has anyone else had any problems?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:47 am 
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The fail point of this mod was completely MY lazy assed fault and not so much upgrading main power cable from alt to battery but the lack of sensor wire from terminal s on alt to battery causing regulator not to do its job and overcharge the system. We pulled alt out and ran it up on a bench and found with a slipping belt output charges in excess of 23v.....there's your problem! Fried all electricals including ecu etc. expensive excersize! Ordered new 110amp alt along with ecu and other bits but definitely all wiring will be upgraded this time including main power from alt to battery!
This is a great mod guys....IF done right and not half assed couldn't be bothered style! Costly mistake!

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:50 pm 
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Update on damage done to jimny from overcharging alt!
Ecu, relays,fuses,globes,hid headlight kit, idle air solenoid, dash, stereo,alternator, so far replacement parts cost me $1100 and still have labour bill to follow! Damn there are my lockers right there all for laziness! Guess I won't do that again!

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 11:44 pm 
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ouch!!!

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