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Post Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 9:39 am 
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Thanks Pete
Will PM you re the panels

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:05 am 
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:41 am 
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Hrmmm I did most of my wiring years ago but I started off like you, with no idea :P, the wiring diagram and amount of wiring looks similar :). I haven't done anything like this before either, so I just left all mine complete instead of cutting anything out, so good luck in that regard!. I will jot some stuff down i remember, and some questions I'm interested in :).

That dash looked way to complicated to wire and modify into the dash so I have not used it. I still get speed from my seirra xfercase, the temp sender sends a signal to the dash, but i also installed another water temp gauge to be sure. Your fuel wire should just go right to the fuel float in the tank, it shouldnt have anything to do with the engine?, unless it needs power to run which is not really engine related. And my tacho doesn't display anything, as its all electrical in the new dash and the older one has mechanical bits.

Have you hooked it up to the engine/gearbox/car at all yet to test it?, or you just want to cut it down first?

Your engine and gearbox just share the same computer?

The VSS wire (probably) needs to go to the vss sensor so the auto can get a speed reading to up/down change correctly. Its not a tacho reading if its the same as mine. Let me know if you want more info on that. I don't believe you can do the vss > tacho mod other engines use to trigger the auto/tell the engine what's going on.

I never worked out where to get a tacho reading from so when i try again i am just going to do it right off the coil packs with an aftermarket tacho setup. . And yea i tried hooking a tacho up to about 5 various tacho/vss wires i found around the engine according to the manual and the tacho never moved so i gave up after a day of trying, my wiring manual gives me a headache too :).

So is there a VSS sensor and the wires that go to the gearstick for the overdrive switch in that lot?, they will both come in handy.


I might have to get Brenno to help me remember what I have hooked up, he helped me at the time but its only a few wires connected to the original sierra stuff:
Accesory/Power wires - 1, 2, 3 wires. I kept the extra fuses boxes so i have 3 fuses boxes, it would be awesome to get rid of them and just use the sierras if possible, they add a lot of extra wire.
Fuel pump relay power wire
Reverse light - not mandatory right away
That might be about it :S

I have some (a lot) of grounds/powers not used and have connected them up once or twice to see if i could remove them and the engine didn't do anything different so they are back off. I still haven't gotten around to removing any wires, its pretty scary something will stop working :/.

Cheers! Have fun :)

Btw your dif gears are going great :), finally got them in including an air locker a few months ago!!

Here is a pic of some of my wiring when we were trying to connect stuff :P

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:37 am 
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I will get my old man to check this thread, he did all my wiring on three engine conversions now

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:31 am 
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:hey: :comeon:

Anyone got some feedback??

I need help! :? :? :oops: :oops: :P

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:35 am 
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Sorry Jazzor my post didnt work.

No I havent hooked anything up yet, hope too in about a week.
Yes the same ECU runs ENG/Auto

Im not sure on much else, thats why Im asking for help

Is the to your M13 or too a J20a??

Glad the gears are going well!

Cheers!

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 6:51 pm 
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Your wiring is unlikely to be the same as a US model which will be OBD2 but it will have most of the same wiring withgout the additional bits such as...
H2OS-2 is the second O2 sensor, fitted on OBD2 models behind the cat to test its efficiency.
DLC is the serial data link, should be connected to a 16-pin J1962 connector that was under the dash
Main relay should be connected to a 10A? fuse from the battery, the ECU grounds one side of the coil to turn it on and apply main power to the ECU.
MIL = Malfunction Indication lamp (Check Engine Light)
Don't you have the wiring diagrams? they will show you everything. The FSM has a lot of pages but you really do need to read them to understand what does and doesn't need to be connected

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:14 pm 
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Fuel Level Sensor would be an OBD2 function do you have that wire connected on your loom?
Coolant temp sensor will be on the engine, it isn't the same as the one that goes to the dash.
One of the power sources will need to be permanently live to keep the memory, the schematic will tell you which one.
13,14,15 are power sources for the sensors.
20 just needs to go live when the ignition is on, it tells the ECU to wake up and turn on the main relay

VSS may need to be run through a signal adapter, I think it needs a higher frequency signal than you'll get from a VSS on the speedo head and it may also be a VR sensor rather than a Hall Effect.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:32 am 
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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:42 am 
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E61 Plug

Pin 13 DLC Data link connector, tape up the end and leave it disconnected, its part of the diagnostics plug.

Mine never had a thermo fan wire, i just used a davies craig switch

You will need to use a vit or gv tacho, as the Wt wont work. I grafted the vit one into the WT cluster.

There is an Idle up but im pretty sure its internal to the ECU

HO2S-2 is heated oxy sensor-2, some of the J20s had two oxy sensors one before and one after the cat. mine didnt have one, your may or may not.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:45 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback all.

1/ Because Im a techno moron I can email the 2 PDF's that have wiring on them to Jrzook, Tanshi and you can then post up what you think needs to be seen by all of us?

2/ What do you think about I edit my above post with the updates and make it step by step?? Or start a new post with step by step??

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:23 pm 
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remydog05 wrote:
Thanks for the feedback all.

1/ Because Im a techno moron I can email the 2 PDF's that have wiring on them to Jrzook, Tanshi and you can then post up what you think needs to be seen by all of us?

2/ What do you think about I edit my above post with the updates and make it step by step?? Or start a new post with step by step??


Edit. Keeps the info in one place. :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:44 pm 
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Any of these help? again please excuse my unreal PDF posting ability!

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:21 am 
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I'm going to weigh in to this with some (probably) unhelpful non-specifics.

I have no experience with the J20 Loom. Obviously the TCC and ECU are combined in the J20.

However, I think my "method" applies regardless.

Firstly, you don't need to cut, modify or mess with the Engine loom or transmission looming any way. (you might want to shorten/re route these later, but don't worry about it now) Don't mess with anything you don't need to.

The engine/ transmission loom should be fairly well separated from the body loom. Don't touch it, and just look for where the engine/trans loom "crosses over" into the body loom, which mostly looks like it all occurs on plug E61.

That should give you relatively few body loom wires to bother with - VSS, Tach, check engine, OD off, A/T power.

Pretty much otherwise as per JRzook - I think the main point is you don't need to know what's happening with stuff you don't need to disconnect.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 6:58 pm 
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Does anyone have any info on how well the Sierra transfer holds up behind a J20 engine with either a manual or auto ? I do very few k's, not much high speed work and drive mostly rock.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:12 pm 
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Red89 wrote:
Does anyone have any info on how well the Sierra transfer holds up behind a J20 engine with either a manual or auto ? I do very few k's, not much high speed work and drive mostly rock.



No. And in the interest of longevity, I just ditched my sierra transfer case. Diffs, driveshafts, engine and transmission have all been substantially upgraded; it makes no sense to leave the sierra case in there IMO. Its just asking for problems.

There was a blue coily with big diffs and MEGA suspension travel getting around with a J20. Not sure what t-fer he used though.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
There was a blue coily with big diffs and MEGA suspension travel getting around with a J20. Not sure what t-fer he used though.


If thats the one in Sydney that was at Tuff Truck some years ago it has a Sierra Transfer in it.
Im pretty sure there are quite a few J20a with sierra TC in the states, but I guess ultimately it depends on many things like driver, tyer size, etc etc etc.
Another theory Im running with is people like oozuk is running a turbo 1.6 and Id say making more HP than a J20a, he hasnt killed a TC.
Also there was a bloke who was doing the Winch Challenges in NSW/QLD (yellow Sierra) with a J20a and sierra 5spd with Sierra box and diffs. He kept killing the gearbox more than anything from what he told me.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:36 pm 
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I thought oozuk had destroyed one ?? Not sure what it was put down to though. I think Rhett is still running a Sierra TC. Just wondering whether they were in the minority or not, I would like to keep my current TC for ease of conversion but dont want to end up with a bucket of shrapnel that cant be sold to fund a stronger case.

Cheers.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:01 pm 
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remydog05 wrote:
Another theory Im running with is people like oozuk is running a turbo 1.6 and Id say making more HP than a J20a, he hasnt killed a TC.

Pretty sure Steve has blown a transfer case. And maybe a diff. And he is swapping out the sierra gearbox too. These are all things he wished he had changed/ fixed during the initial build.

Also there was a bloke who was doing the Winch Challenges in NSW/QLD (yellow Sierra) with a J20a and sierra 5spd with Sierra box and diffs. He kept killing the gearbox more than anything from what he told me.


That doesn't suprise me.

Although havng an auto would dampen the power delivery to the transfer, ultimately, it was never designed for a J20, with 100% power increase and 65% torque increase over a 1.3L sierra.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:49 am 
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oozuk had a gear set that lost its case hardwening from what i remember.

but yes he is going to vitara diffs as am I in mine

im reasonably comfortable that the sierra transfer will hold up, if not i cant see it being too much of an issue to replace it with some thing else.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:53 pm 
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Ahh I think you might be right there about his gears, but he might be able to confirm it was the old Rocklobster gear set???

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 9:36 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
im reasonably comfortable that the sierra transfer will hold up, if not i cant see it being too much of an issue to replace it with some thing else.

Yer but I'm lazy and would rather be wheeling it, I hate replacing bits all the time :lol: I'm not looking at doing it till the end of next year anyway and wanted more then what the 1.6 can give so I'm tossing up between the j18 and the j20, will look at going auto as well. Sounds like the J18 is the safer option.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 9:49 pm 
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Red89 wrote:
Sounds like the J18 is the safer option.



What does this mean? They are essentially the same motor, only the J18 makes 5kw less, and 22Nm less at 500rpm higher.

There are also less of them around IIRC.

EDIT>

J18a J20a
89kw@ 6200 94kw@ 6000

152Nm@ 3400 174Nm@ 2900

More torque, lower in the revs. J20 has my vote.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:38 am 
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When my jimny motor dies ill be putting a J20/AW4 ;)

This thread is good :D

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:40 am 
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31zook wrote:
When my jimny motor dies ill be putting a J20/AW4 ;)

This thread is good :D



That would make a Jimny INFINATELY better!!

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:24 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
Red89 wrote:
Sounds like the J18 is the safer option.



What does this mean? They are essentially the same motor, only the J18 makes 5kw less, and 22Nm less at 500rpm higher.

There are also less of them around IIRC.

EDIT>

J18a J20a
89kw@ 6200 94kw@ 6000

15Nm@ 3400 174Nm@ 2900

More torque, lower in the revs. J20 has my vote

I was working off the apparently wrong rough idea I had in my head the j18 was low 80s for power output. And the extra torque is only useful to me providing the car lasts longer then a couple hours per outing :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:33 pm 
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the big blue flexy zook you speak of is only on zuk diffs and 35s, j20 bla bla and sierra case. extremely awesome car if it didnt have the diffs in it

mr green off here also has the j20 with manual and then a sierra case with 6.1 or 6.4 with lux diffs and 35s twin locked. allthough its probably too early days to judge it yet with the minimal kms its done and not punishing driving Jas will possibly see this and give you some more info bevan.

grants little yellow zuk for the winch challenges never had case issues that i can remember with 6.5s and the j20,but am sure it had gbox dramas. it was a zippy little thing allthough only on WT's and 31s

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:05 pm 
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Very informative read. I like :D

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:11 am 
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Hey guys, did you end up having any problems with your drive train? and how many k's have you put on since the engine conversion?

Awesome read love how there is 3 builds at once and plenty of info on problems and how to fix.

I know this is a super old thread but any updated info on how the conversions went would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mikey.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:56 am 
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Fatzook never finished his.

I finished the conversion, drove it for maybe a couple of 1000 and parted out the car as i needed a tow vehicle and trailer.
The conversion now sits in an LJ ute that Henno is building but hasnt finished

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