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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 8:26 am 
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Ok kiddies, today's lesson is how to remove and install an alternator. This was done on my Vitara, but it's the same process for any car.

It is a rather easy job to do, The hardest part is physically removing it out of the engine bay. To make things easier in the Vit you could remove the lower radiator hose, but that would create more work, so be patient and persistant.

Disclaimer:
As always, my posts are open to criticism, correction and other tips. I should also state that THIS IS ONLY A GUIDE, I AM NOT A MECHANIC. If you have any doubts, always consult your local car doctor or specialist. You are responsible for your own actions.


================================================

First, disconnect the battery.
If your not sure which clamp to remove, just remove both clamps.

Looking down to the alternator you will see that the charcoal canister is in the way, Undo the bracket bolts and flip it up out of the way, there's no need to disconnect the hoses attatched to it.

Image

Now you have a clear view and work space. From here you can clearly see the Alt. belt adjusting bracket and bolt, and the alternator plug.

Image

Undo the adjusting bolt, take the tention off the belt and take the belt off the pulley.

Image

Next you need to remove the alternator plug. A flat screwdriver might come in handy to help unclip it.

Image

Now you can see the power cable which is just one 10mm bolt, reach in nice and deep like and undo it.
NOTE: When you put this cable back on, make sure it is insulated from touching the body of the alternator.

Image

OK, your almost done, all you have to do now is undo the two bolts that the alternator pivots on, And you will have to get underneath the car to get to them.

Now your ready to jiggle it out and replace.

Installation is the exact opposite of removal.


Last edited by buzbox on Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:38 am, edited 5 times in total.
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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 8:56 am 
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Nice write up buz.
My belt has just started squeaking so I'm replacing it tomorrow.
This will come in handy.

Shouldn't that cleavage shot be in the boobs thread? :D

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:08 am 
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I'm sure some girls will say, I recognise that arse :lol:

A squeeky belt doesn't always mean it needs replacing, Over time they do stretch. Check if your belt has small cracks, If it doesn't it may just need re-tentioning. But it is a wise and good time to replace it.

That can be done by simply losening the tention bolt, for leverage put a bar, pole, or in my case an axe handle against the alternator and push. With your free hand tighten the bolt.

If you do replace it, keep your old belt and chuck it in with your recovery gear. It's still good to use as a backup.

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:36 am 
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Step 1..... Disconnect battery...

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:38 am 
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buzbox wrote:
First, disconnect the battery.


Surely you don't need a photo or instruction on how to do that :?

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 1:01 pm 
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buzbox wrote:
buzbox wrote:
First, disconnect the battery.


Surely you don't need a photo or instruction on how to do that :?


No - but given the potential consequences, it's important that it be stated - you have no idea who will be following your how to.

On second thoughts - YES - you would be surprised at how many people don't know that there is a right way and a wrong way.

Disconnect the battery, negative post first - unless you have one of those old british cars with a positive ground electrical system, in which case disconnect the positive post first.

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 8:27 pm 
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fordem wrote:
buzbox wrote:
buzbox wrote:
First, disconnect the battery.


Surely you don't need a photo or instruction on how to do that :?


No - but given the potential consequences, it's important that it be stated - you have no idea who will be following your how to.

On second thoughts - YES - you would be surprised at how many people don't know that there is a right way and a wrong way.

Disconnect the battery, negative post first - unless you have one of those old british cars with a positive ground electrical system, in which case disconnect the positive post first.


Agreed & thanx for reminding me about a Saab I fried yr's ago... :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 10:39 pm 
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Was just discussing why you do negative first, and the ONLY reason we could come up with is so you don't create a short circuit to the body of the vehicle with whatever tool you are using to remove the clamps if you happen to bump something...



Correct me if I'm wrong but surely that's the only reason.

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Post Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 11:33 pm 
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Teracis wrote:
Was just discussing why you do negative first, and the ONLY reason we could come up with is so you don't create a short circuit to the body of the vehicle with whatever tool you are using to remove the clamps if you happen to bump something...



Correct me if I'm wrong but surely that's the only reason.


Armsup

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Post Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 12:23 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
Teracis wrote:
Was just discussing why you do negative first, and the ONLY reason we could come up with is so you don't create a short circuit to the body of the vehicle with whatever tool you are using to remove the clamps if you happen to bump something...



Correct me if I'm wrong but surely that's the only reason.


Armsup


Pretty much, youll only ever bash the other end of a live spanner and jam it there once, the burns from trying to remove the welded in place spanner before something catches fire are memorable

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Post Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 12:36 am 
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royce wrote:
Pretty much, youll only ever bash the other end of a live spanner and jam it there once, the burns from trying to remove the welded in place spanner before something catches fire are memorable


Armsup :P

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Post Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 1:06 am 
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Years ago I bought a car off a woman who had to have her ring finger amputated after shorting a shifter on battery and body.
Her ring got red hot and burnt all the skin off. The flesh on her finger died very quickly.

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Post Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:51 am 
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fordem wrote:
buzbox wrote:
buzbox wrote:
First, disconnect the battery.


Surely you don't need a photo or instruction on how to do that :?


No - but given the potential consequences, it's important that it be stated - you have no idea who will be following your how to.


I understand that, And I'm not having a dig at you, but If you look closely I have stated that the first step is to disconnect the battery. If your just highlighting that point, No worries, your more than welcome to. :)

I'll edit my original post to make it clear.

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Post Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 8:08 am 
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somebody go make a how to for disconnecting a battery, I think just about all suzukis can isolate the charge wire without a spanner and the stock wiring

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Post Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 8:25 am 
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fordem wrote:
buzbox wrote:
buzbox wrote:
First, disconnect the battery.


Surely you don't need a photo or instruction on how to do that :?


No - but given the potential consequences, it's important that it be stated - you have no idea who will be following your how to.

On second thoughts - YES - you would be surprised at how many people don't know that there is a right way and a wrong way.

Disconnect the battery, negative post first - unless you have one of those old british cars with a positive ground electrical system, in which case disconnect the positive post first.


good write up dave and I think if you dont know how to diconect your battery you have no busnesse changing you oil let alone a altornator

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Post Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 9:42 am 
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want33s wrote:
Years ago I bought a car off a woman who had to have her ring finger amputated after shorting a shifter on battery and body.
Her ring got red hot and burnt all the skin off. The flesh on her finger died very quickly.

seen a similar thing happen in a tech class many years ago person was working on car dash stuck hand up behind dash wearing a ring got the ring back just didn't have a finger to put it on shorted across two connections burnt the finger so bad they had to remove it

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 11:04 pm 
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Hey I am currently replacing a alternator on a sierra with a 1.6 and I need to switch the pulley over. I am having allot of trouble getting the pulley off do I need a special tool? Or should I just take it somewhere and get someone else to swap the pulley.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 7:43 am 
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Put the pulley in a vice and use a impact wrench to remove it.

Or just take it to an auto elecy and get them to do it. Personally I think you should get it reco'd while it's out. For a basic reco I was charged between $60-80. At least you will have peace of mind knowing it's semi new.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:24 am 
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Got a auto electrician to do it. It was a new alternator it was on my 1.3 hard top about 2 weeks before the engine blew.

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