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Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 10:49 am 
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Below is a brief guide on how I converted my 2008 VVT M13A Jimny into a M18A Jimny, 1300cc into an 1800cc. My jimny retains the stock M13A Engine management ECU. I did my initial conversion with A LOT of help from this forum, couldn't have done it without.
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EDIT 22/04/14:- If you read through the latter pages of this guide you'll find some extra knowledge regarding the Inlet manifold and throttle body, plus more installation tips. I've gone back and highlighted the edits in this first post so that you don't miss out on the updated understanding regarding Liana Throttle bodies and Manifolds, which should give even better results...Thanks everyone who set us right on this...
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The same guide can likely be applied to convert a VVT M13A jimny into a VVT M15A or VVT M18A engine, or a NON-VVT M13A Jimny into a NON-VVT M15A or NON-VVT M16A engine.

This guide does not cover the installation of a replacement ECU. So far my Stock Jimny VVT M13A ECU will 'adequately' operate the VVT M18A engine, and another member on this forum has confirmed that the NON-VVT M13A ECU will 'adequately' operate the NON-VVT M16A Engine without issues.

Things to consider before you start your conversions-
M15A VVT engine can be obtained most commonly from Suzuki Swift.
NON-VVT M16A engine can be obtained most commonly from Suzuki Liana.
M18A VVT engine can be obtained most commonly from Suzuki Liana engine.
NON-VVT M15A engine can be obtained most commonly from 2001-05 Holden Cruze and some Suzuki Ignis.

Other notable cars - some newer Suzuki Vitaras had a M16A VVT engine in some countries..

Another thing to consider in australia:-
Jimny conforms to Euro 4 emmisions after June 30th, 2008.
Jimny conforms to Euro 3 emmisions before July 1st 2008.

Liana sourced engines, 1.6 and 1.8 are Euro 3 emmisions only, so check that your jimny was ADR'd (Australian Design Rules Compliance Plate) before July 1st 2008 before you fit if you intend to use the vehicle on the public roads.
________________________________________________________________________________________________

All in the conversion has cost me $700 plus general service consumables - oil, coolant filters etc. NOT BAD!!! hell of a lot cheaper then other methods of getting more power. Like they say, 'there's no replacement for displacement' 8).

1. Get a donor M18A engine from somewhere. I got a 2004 Liana engine. You'll only need the primary parts of the M18 engine. As a minimum you'll need the Head, Block and Injectors, so a fairly stripped down engine will still serve your jimny well.
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EDIT, 22/04/14:- Try and get the Liana inlet Manifold and Throttle Body too, since possibly you can use these - read further...
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Some common misconseptions - you should use the jimny intake manifold NOT the liana. It has additional connections for the 4x4 vacuum hose, and other then this it appears to be the same size in everyother way. Don't think the liana one is bigger and more 'freer flowing - it isn't.
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EDIT, 22/04/14:- This isn't correct, as noted by Bertie in a later post, a side by side comparison shows that the M18 Manifold is ported larger. However it's missing a second vacuum port for the 4x4 vacuum cylinder. This can be very easily overcome by inserting a simple T-Piece into one of the alternative vacuum hoses.
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Also you WILL need to use the Jimny throttle body. You may think the Liana one is better because it is bigger, which is true, but the Jimny ECU will not run the Liana throttle body. The idle air control valve is much bigger on the Liana and you jimny will not idle properly.Regarding fitting a freer flowing exhaust manifold - don't do it yet. get the engine conversion running on stock then change it after. It won't get you many gains anyway since you are still restricted by the smaller jimny throttle body.
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EDIT. 10/05/14:- Possibly there is a way to overcome this issue, some members have solved in later posts. Trial taking the Idle Control Valve off the M13 Throttle Body and attaching it to the M18 Throttle body. You can now trial the M18 Throttle body. The coolant hose connections are at different angles, but easily overcome by just using some of the hoses from the donor engine, or just make your own up. Note your will need a small 5-point star socket to swap the Idle control valves over. Some members have had success, other members can't get it to idle right. Suggest you give it a go or just use the M13 throttle body since that one is deffo going to idle right. It's your choice if you want to trial and error with the M18 throttle body.
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Here's a picture of my liana engine. I'm stripping off the Fuel injector rail and other parts I won't need while the oil and coolant are being drained out of the jimny. Just on a side note, you'll need to relieve the fuel pressure because you'll be playing with the injectors, so the very first job is to pull the Fuel pump relay while the engine is running and let it run until it stalls. Crank it a few times until its completely starved of fuel. Then disconnect the battery ready to start.
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2. Tools you are going to need is an engine hoist and a very flexible socket set /breaker bar. basically a decent array of tools, but nothing special. you'll need a mate for some jobs and it took me about two days. Start by disconnecting the wiring loom. No two electrical plugs can be pushed into the wrong connector, so you only need to have a decent memory of roughly where each cable route goes. You might need to label up the small vacuum hoses around the intake manifold just to make it easier later.
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3. Reaching some of the electrical connections are a real pain - see image below of this one under the alternator, so pretty soon you will have to start taking parts off the engine to complete the job of disconnecting the wiring loom and hoses.
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4. Take the ancilliaries off, First the radiator, fan, and belts, alternator take them all completely off. Leave the air con in situ except for the compressor. This is attached to the engine, so you take the power steering pump off and tie it to one side of the engine bay (no need to disconnect the power steering hoses or loose any fluid) then you can access the air con comressor underneath and do the same to that. Don't loose any refrigirant, just disconnect from the engine and tie it out of the way. You'll also need to disconnect the Injector rail from the engine, but don't bother disconnecting the two fuel lines, you can just pull the rail to one side out of the way.
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5. The exhaust manifold will have to come off anyway, so i took mine off while the M13 engine was still in the car. Should make it easier to remove the engine with it off. With the exhaust manifold out of the way you can detach the two bolts holding the engine mount to the body. On the opposite side for the other engine mount don't undo those two bolts. Just undo the one nut by the water hose. Hard to access because the hose is in the way, but you can do it with a decent ratchet spanner.
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6. Do a sweep to make sure you got everything electrical disconnected. Take out the starter motor and undo all the gearbox - engine bolts. I think there was about 6 bolts and a nut but don't rely on that I can't quite remember now. I also disconnected my clutch cable at the gearbox. It's hidden behind a triangular plastic cover, but I'm not sure this was nessecary after all. The gearbox bolts are a pain to access, but you can do it with some flexible breaker bar and use six-point sockets. Once these are all undone and you are sure about this, get the hoist and jack up the engine, making sure to lift the passenger side mount up first. then you have the room to swing the engine to the passenger side and hence unmount the drivers side engine mount. All should now be hanging on the engine crane. Don't jack it up too high or the gearbox willstart lifting the car body. put an axle stand under the gearbox to take the weight when the engine and gearbox separate. The gearbox has two main allignment pins on the right and left side. They will be corroded in so you will have to swing like an orangutan on that gearbox and engine to get them apart. But you'll get there eventually. A plastic wedge would help. Drive it in between the gearbox and engine.
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7. With the engine out, swap all the components over. You want to use the Jimny parts for almost everything. Use the Jimny sump, you'll need some instant gasket gum to do this - it doesn't use a gasket. Swap over the oil pick up pipe to. As such you will have to use the Jimny rocker cover too and dipstick since these will be on the wrong side of the engine on the liana block. You'll find that the liana engine has blanking plates in all the right places. The main reason you have to swap all this stuff is because the liana is front wheel drive. You'll have to remove the liana engine mounting studs for one of the hoses. If you don't know how to remove studs, look it up on youtube, or just grind them off if you can't be bothered. See my picture below.
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8. Use the Jimny Flywheel and clutch. The clutch is only 10mm smaller then the Liana, and a jimny weighs less and it will have less power, so it's going to be fine, jimny clutch is up to the job. Use thread locker on the flywheel bolts and look up the torque settings from the jimny manual,I can't remember what it said now though. Regarding the water impeller, You can swap the whole unit, or just the back half where the hoses connect and fit the studs and pully from the jimny unit to the front. You will also need to swap the Main pully on the end of the Jimny engine over. The bolt holding it in should be torqued up good and proper, but it does come off anti-clockwise as per normal. Also don't forget to remove the liana oil filter holder. You may think it's better but it's going to whack your chasis when the engine shakes around. Tip - if you haven't got bolts big enough to do a proper job of removing the filter screw on stud, grind a small groove into it so that you can unscrew it with something flat like a flat-head screwdriver. - you'll understand what I mean when you do it. forgot to take some pics of how I did it.
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9. Fitting the engine back in is the reverse of pulling it out naturally. Take some happy snaps for posterities sake! 8)

10. Fill up all the fluids and start her up. If you get an engine light it's because you missed one of the electrical connections. The light will go away after 3 -5 cycles with the offending electrical connection connected back up. If your 4x4 aint working, likely you missed a vacuum hose. You will probably overheat like I did the first test drive. The system will have a load of air locks in it, so don't panic, just top up the coolant again via the radiator (not the expansion tank) and all should be good!
:blingbling:

You'll have a ton more torque then before. I can accelerate up-hill in forth gear on a hill that before I could not accelerate up even in 3rd gear.


Last edited by squibby on Sat May 10, 2014 7:29 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 2:01 pm 
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this is very good to no when I am off my P's this will be on the todo list

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:42 pm 
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I wanna go for a drive :)

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:11 am 
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Darn it, its 1.12 am in the morning and that beer looks awesome now, what the hell time for some elbow action

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:43 am 
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datso wrote:
Darn it, its 1.12 am in the morning and that beer looks awesome now, what the hell time for some elbow action

It's 8:42AM and i'm thinking the same! :lol:

squibby wrote:
If you don't know how to remove studs, look it up on youtube, or just grind them off if you can't be bothered.


Tsk tsk. Do you not realise this is a perfect opportunity to buy more tools! Put him in the stocks and let fly with the rotten vegetables!!!

I have one of these 8)
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:28 am 
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Damo wrote:
datso wrote:
Darn it, its 1.12 am in the morning and that beer looks awesome now, what the hell time for some elbow action

It's 8:42AM and i'm thinking the same! :lol:

squibby wrote:
If you don't know how to remove studs, look it up on youtube, or just grind them off if you can't be bothered.


Tsk tsk. Do you not realise this is a perfect opportunity to buy more tools! Put him in the stocks and let fly with the rotten vegetables!!!

I have one of these 8)


That's still cheating :lol:

In the spirit of this thread, the basic way to do it without spending money is with 2 nuts and 2 spanners.

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Post Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Great thread guys thank you for the picks!

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:33 am 
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I am running a Jimny M series gearbox in my sierra ,I have installed the sierra 5th gear cogs, which gives me an 8% reduction in rpm in 5th gear ,worth considering

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:07 pm 
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Could you do a swap on an auto and keep the auto tranny?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:30 pm 
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Dr_Snapid wrote:
Could you do a swap on an auto and keep the auto tranny?



You could, but i beleave the jimny auto's a pretty weak - so it won't really like the power form the m18a :(

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:12 am 
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The general wiring on an auto Jimny differs from a manual, however I haven't investigated enough to know wether the differences extend as far as the engine. Don't flame me if I'm wrong but I'd edge toward monley's opinion above that you can do it. No idea how the box will handle the M18, but I do know that my M13 Clutch handles the M18 no worries.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:07 pm 
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thanks for the great information am going to convert my suzuki liana M13 to M18

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Post Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 6:06 pm 
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awesome thread, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:27 pm 
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I've just put my M18A in last weekend and thought I would add to this thread with my experiences. Basically I followed Squibby's instructions with only a few minor changes.

Things I did differently:
* Intake manifold. I ended up taking the intake manifold off the engine while it was in the car and reinstalling it after the new engine was in the car. This gave me full access to the engine mounts and meant that I didn't have to fiddle around like Squibby did. Not sure if this was a time/effort saver or not but it worked for me. If you do it this way make sure you tighten up the intake manifold before installing the injector rail as the injector rail will impede access to some of the intake manifold bolts.

* Clutch cable. Squibby said he undid the clutch cable but wasn't sure if it was really nesecary. It is. The small cover plate where the clutch cable is mounted to the gearbox will foul on the flywheel and prevent the engine and gearbox from separating unless it is removed.

* Gearbox blts. Just to clarify there are 2 bolts with on the passenger side that are bolted in from the gearbox side. and one nut that is installed from the engine side. On the drivers side there is 1 bolt at the top installed from the gearbox side and 2 bolts at the bottom that are installed from the engine side plus the 2 bolts that hold the starter motor on which are installed from the gearbox side. This makes a total of 7 bolts and one nut (including the 2 bolts for the starter motor). My gearbox actually separated quite easily once all bolts were undone. As Squibby suggested, a wedge would help.

Things I had trouble with:
* Changing the oil filter holder. The liana uses a bracket that rotates the oil filter 90 degrees and makes it hang off the side of the engine right where the engine mount is. The Jimny just has a hollow threaded stud allowing the oil filter to screw directly onto the side of the engine. In Squibby's instructions it says this:
Squibby wrote:
Tip - if you haven't got bolts big enough to do a proper job of removing the filter screw on stud, grind a small groove into it so that you can unscrew it with something flat like a flat-head screwdriver.

I was pretty uprepared for this part of the job but managed to make it work. I didn't have any nuts that were the right size (a Google search tells me its 3/4-16 UNC) so I attempted to grind a couple of small grooves it it so I could undo it with a screw driver but it wouldn't budge. I made slightly bigger grooves and tried a bigger screw driver but bent the end of the stud so it was time for plan C. I ended up welding a nut to the end of the stud which gave me something to undo the stud with and then reinstall it. Once reinstalled I simply cut the nut off with a small hacksaw, cleaned it out thoughouly, did a test fit with one of the old oil filters, then installed the new oil filter.
Reccomendation: Buy a new Jimny oil filter mounting stud from Suzuki before starting. The Suzuki part number is 11241-69G01, it only costs $11.70, and will make the job that little bit easier. This means that you can leave the old stud in the old engine and simply screw this new one in to the M18A.

* Crank shaft pulley bolts. Even with a rattle gun I couldn't get either bolt to release. Eventually the only way to get it undone was with a long spanner and a bit of pipe on the end as an extension. You'll want to have the engine on the ground for extra stability when doing this and you need to lock the crankshaft in place somehow. When I went to undo the crankshaft pulleys I had already moved the flywheel over to the new engine so I was able jam a piece of steel in the flywheel to stop it spinning. Getting the pulley off the M13A proved slightly harder as there was no flywheel and I didn't want to undo the flywheel from the M18A as I had already threadlocked and torqued it up. I ended up using a piece of steel angle with two holes drilled in it that I could bolt up to the engine in place of the flywheel. The angle then extended out past the edge of the engine where a gearbox bolt was installed to stop the angle turning around.
Recommendation: Remove the crankshaft pulley from the M13A before removing the flywheel then remove the Liana pulley and reinstall the Jimny pulley on the M18A after installing the flywheel on the M18A.

* Gearbox to engine bolts and starter motor bolts. These bolts are tight and a pain to get to. Squibby recommended using 6 point sockets, advice which I glazed past and didn't think much about until I was trying to get them apart. Definitely use 6 point sockets for this and if you don't have any, get some. You'll need a 17mm and 14mm as a minimum. I had to use what I had (12 point sockets) and had great difficulty with the top bolt on the starter motor which ended up rounding slightly.

Looking back it was a relative easy job but some of the hurdles I came across could only be solved by spending hours in front of it trying different things. I did some prep on the new engine for about 4 hours on Friday afternoon then with a friend we spent from 9am to midnight on it on Saturday which got us t the point of having the M13A out and everything except the oil filter mount and crankshaft pulleys moved over. On Sunday we had a late start of about 11am and finished up at around 7pm. So all up it took two people about 22 hours plus a few hours of prep time on my own.

One final tip I would add is if at all possible try to do this where you can leave the car for a while if things are taking longer than expected and don't do it when you will need the car working straight after. I used a workshop at work which meant that I had to be packed up and cleaned up before 8am on Monday and at a few points this was looking unlikely. Also my wife needed to use the car today so one way or another I had to have it going to keep the peace and again this didn't look likely at some points.

- Tim.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 12:16 pm 
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So this is the Jimny oil filter holder. Its a bit over an inch long.
Image
The blue stuff is threadlock that has been preapplied by Suzuki, this end goes into the block and the other end is what the oil filter will screw on to.

Its Suzuki part number is 11241-69G01 and it only costs $11.70.
Image

Buy one of these before you start your conversion and you won't have to worry about trying to get the old one out and swapping it over, just screw this straight into the M18 block.

- Tim.


Last edited by tim80z on Fri Jul 07, 2017 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:50 am 
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I have just overheated my M13A non-vvt and thinking seriously about M16A non-vvt conversion.

I am just worried about buying an engine and then finding the auto wont even bolt up. I'm not that concerned about it not taking the power, I dont drive like a lunatic anyway, but if it wont bolt up theres alot of $ down the drain.

Does anyone have any gearboxes that might be able to be measured / compared? Any other ideas how I might be able to confirm this before sourcing an engine?

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for where to source the engine?

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:03 am 
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good tech ill be doing this when my warranty runs out ... only 2 years to go :roll:

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:56 am 
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From my research the non-vvt M15a is the way to go. You might beat me to doing it :)

There are a few on ebay at the moment, and a few on suzuki wreckers websites, have a google.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:20 pm 
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That seems a well priced motor... why do you say it's the way to go... because of the price? Availablilty? I see no M16a around so availability of m15a seems better ATM

I dont see any mention of VVT on those ads, is the VVT feature easily visible on the cam cover usually? Any way to tell just by looking at the pics? I have seen some pics seem to have a different shape on the front edge of the cam cover, rather than going stright down it seems to come forward at an angle, is this the difference I need to look for to avoid a vvt engine?

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:00 pm 
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Yea price/availability and some people talking it up. Search the forum for m15a/m16a/m18a and read all of them. I quickly found these:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=30600&hilit=m15a
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=28487&p=511233&hilit=m15a#p511233

My understanding is that the Holden Cruise only came with the non-vvt engine. So check the years the non-vvt engine was out Vs the year of the engine/car and even ask the seller etc. I don't know of a way to visually tell.

We should probably waffle on in your thread too!

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:45 pm 
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VVT

Image


NON VVT

Image


The VVT has a roundish bump at the front of the head, the NON VVT is flat.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:58 pm 
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Thanks zukenutter that's gold. I should have known you would know, you have one of each, dont ya? or is blackie gone?

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 7:54 am 
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Yeah black is long gone and I didn't have a pic of the donk so I had to google the NON VVT pic :oops: :roll:

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:11 pm 
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My M15A (no VVT) is from a holden cruze.

I had to drill these holes a touch to fit the alternator bracket because it had sleeves that fitted into a recess. Just grabbed a drill and went in a few mm, problem solved.

Attachment:
2012-10-08 17.32.16 (Small).jpg


Also had to buy VL commodore engine mounts because we found ALL mine were broken (!) and Jimny ones unavailable and dearer. They certainly look to fit perfectly and will confirm as soon as motor is in.

So far no difficulty to report apart from things ppl mentioned earlier although the bolts hold the oil pickup were so tight we had to use an impact wrench to get them off....

Also discovered the black magic secret to properly adjusting the jimny idler pulley, it has a 10mm allen key hole in the centre that you cannot see when installed. So now I know how to get tension, my last mechanic just had a bloke press on it with a bit of timber while he tightened, cursing suzuki for such a lame setup. Now I see the light!

This thread has been enormously helpful, thanks to tim80z, squibby and the rest of ya!


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Post Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:20 pm 
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So I have a Jimny built in March 2009, I assume it is ADR'd after July 1st 2008. If I want to drive on public roads, does that leave me with only the M15A VVT option? I would much prefer an M18A VVT if I am going to all the trouble of an engine transplant.

Is the ADR issue an insurance problem or only a Mr Plod issue?

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:29 pm 
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hi there, I am thinking about doing the conversion soon, can i get some feedback on how does the M18 perform on the Jimny? ? I assume there is gonna heaps more low down toque ? coz what I find with the jimny is every time when I go off road I always need to use the low range (in a manual car), since there is not enough power/toque to do anything if the low range is not use.. feels liek you would burn out the clutch before u climb over anything. how is the offroad ability with the M18 ??

cheeers

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:46 pm 
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wlin88 wrote:
hi there, I am thinking about doing the conversion soon, can i get some feedback on how does the M18 perform on the Jimny? ? I assume there is gonna heaps more low down toque ? coz what I find with the jimny is every time when I go off road I always need to use the low range (in a manual car), since there is not enough power/toque to do anything if the low range is not use.. feels liek you would burn out the clutch before u climb over anything. how is the offroad ability with the M18 ??

cheeers



I don't have the M18 but using Low off road is normal especially with a zuke. The M18 will make no difference to this. What size tyres do you have on your Jimny.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:06 pm 
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zukenutter wrote:

I don't have the M18 but using Low off road is normal especially with a zuke. The M18 will make no difference to this. What size tyres do you have on your Jimny.


I use to own NP Pajero and still owns a 100 series cursier V8 and both auto, and I never use to use any low range in any of this car. and been auto its really easy to drive. I am new to manual jimny so I might have to get use to it.

oh yes I got 235/75/15 muddies on the zook right now.

cheers

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Vehicle: 2006 Jimny JLX

Post Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 5:45 pm 
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235s will kill your torque as they're a 11% increase in circumference over standard tyres. Zukes are very different to the bigger torquey 4x4s and love to rev

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Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:14 pm
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Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: 2006 M18A VVT auto Jimny

Post Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:20 pm 
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Hi all,

Just put an M18A VVT in my Jimny following the advice from this thread, thanks !! Can't believe the difference it made to the car especially being an auto, doesn't struggle to pull anymore, has plenty of torque and the auto seems fine. The only thing I've noticed is it now gets through the gears really quickly into top gear in the auto without having to rev her out. Hopefully this should help with upgrading the tires to 235's shortly.

Cheers

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