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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:06 pm
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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:33 am 
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thanks, I'll try. Also, i'll try both m13 and m18 idle control in that case. As for my problem with accidentall loss of power -- it was easy: not enough ATF in the AT (i've got additional AT cooler, that seems wasn't filled fully).

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 1:19 pm 
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Now that it has been demonstrated that the M18A throttle body with the M13A IAC motor works best... would there possibly be more benefit than previously thought in getting a larger exhaust system given more fuel is potentially being successfully burnt?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:48 pm 
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I'm running S/S extractor into standard exhaust.
My engine has plenty of response at higher revs, so if a larger freer flowing exhaust would improve lower rpm response while sacrificing a little top end power, that would be ok. Just my opinion

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 5:15 pm 
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I can't compare with standart exhaust, now running cherry bomb 87524 glasspack, but IMO if one's going to unleash the true potential of M18A, i guess all exhaust line should be redone, at least, beginning from downpipe. And, of course, intake too. The simple change of muffler won't do the thing. The only reason I run glasspack is better clearance and more space for, like, compressed air receiver or rear winch in the future.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:16 am 
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I installed the SS extractor while still running the 1.3, the difference was definitely noticeable even though the rest of the system was stock. No argument from me that a full system would be best but a muffler change would still free things up to a degree.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:50 am 
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I'm about to put in an M16a, so reading and re-reading this thread.

heading out this morning to order the oilfilter thread

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:54 pm 
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is there anyway to keep the factory Oil Cooler? (M16A) or is it not worth the drama?

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Assuming the 1.6 filter holder is the same as 1.8. I ran mine for a few days while waiting for the holder, every time I took off it would hit the engine mount, was very battered when removed. It's a shame it doesn't fit because it would be easier to swap the filter.

I thought briefly about grinding the chassis to give it some clearance but it's just easier to swap it.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:46 pm 
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this little ripper

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Whoa! That's very different to the 1.8

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:19 pm 
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really? it has coolant lines going to it. It looks like it sits in between the AC compressor and the engine mount

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:34 pm 
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Yeah very different. No idea why it would have that.
Yours may fit but that low hanging filter would be very susceptible to damage

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:18 pm 
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unlike M18A with simple angle adapter to direct oil filter vertically down (for ease of changing), this adapter is made for additional cooling of engine oil, just like greddy aftermarket adapters, which i'd like to mount sometime (got the oil cooler somewhere, intended for trans cooling). I guess, You've got that engine from the swift sport?

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:29 pm 
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correct. hoping to hell it installs much the same as the M18a in this thread! :-)

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 4:31 pm 
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GT_Tony wrote:
correct. hoping to hell it installs much the same as the M18a in this thread! :-)


good news! One of guys installed M16A from swift sport to his jimny with this oil cooler adapter and had no problems. It fits tight, but it fits and doesn't interfere with anything. But note, that he's got 3" suspension lift and uses oil filters more narrow and longer, than standart ones. he even bent the front axle housing, but never battered the oil filter.

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Last edited by nordom on Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 4:50 pm 
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Get some pics

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:22 am 
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That filter position would make changing so much easier, does it ever hit during hard acceleration or big bumps?
Steering shaft confused me until I looked at your location, hahaha So weird to see it there.


An update regarding my acceleration dead spot, I installed a new PCV valve grommet and the dead spot is almost sorted I think. It still has a lag from time to time but it's much less dead than before. To finish it off I'll get a new valve and hopefully it's all good.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:09 am 
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The search function won't let me search for it.
Has anyone done a M13/auto into a Sierra?

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 10:54 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
Has anyone done a M13/auto into a Sierra?


Somewhat related, but pezz is/was planning to put an M16/auto into his LWB and didn't seem to suggest it was going to be overly difficult.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:21 pm 
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I had an M13A with auto in my red SWB sierra for a few years, in the last few months I have changed to a M15A (with all the M13A intake manifold, rocker cover and sump) and still using the auto in my orange LWB sierra.

I will update my thread at some point with some pics.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 1:14 pm 
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Cool. I'll have a squiz! Thanks

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:16 pm 
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I did my M18A conversion last week. Amazing change!

I used the Jimny Throttle body with Liana fuel rail. Also using Jimny Extractors

Only problem I encountered was on its first freeway drive the thermostat went slightly into the red. I could hear the radiator bubbling so I had to get a tow truck home.
Spent some time going over all the pipework and couldn't find the source of the leak. Turns out there was a loose bolt on the water pump and the gasket goo wasn't enough to hold it.

Removed the water pump, re gasket-goo'd it. Put all the bolts back on and tightened them as necessary.

I've found a few teething issues.
- When the engine has to work hard, eg, do 60 in 5th gear, then plant your foot, it'll vibrate a lot. Reckon cause is too much / not enough fuel
- It occasionally shows signs of a dead spot in 1st and second gears. Only happened once or twice in the last week - not enough fuel

Both issues, I've been told, are signs of the Jimny ECU "recalibrating". Apparently it may take a little while for the Jimny ECU to realise it has a bigger engine and work out the most efficient air/fuel mixture.

No engine lights yet though so I'm not too worried. Getting her on a DYNO tomorrow.

I read that someone else had a 0-100 test done - I'm gonna accuse them of driving like a granny.
I had mine done with a mate who races for a living (his daily is a Lotus Exige - jealous!).

1.3L 0-100 was 16.2s
1.8L 0-100 is 9.6s

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:44 pm 
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jtayl153 wrote:
are signs of the Jimny ECU "recalibrating". Apparently it may take a little while for the Jimny ECU to realise it has a bigger engine and work out the most efficient air/fuel mixture.



I can without a doubt say this is false, and is false for 99.5% of ecu's in the world

The technology required for an ECU to hugely change and remember mapping is way more than anyone is going to use in a cheap car.

Even if it had the correct o2 and knock sensors to chase a preprogrammed target mixture and knock figure for any given engine load, there is nothing to say that's correct for the new engine.


I really wish even just one of you would stick a piggyback ecu and get it properly tuned, I reckon you'd never shut up about the huge difference in drivability

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:03 pm 
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royce wrote:
jtayl153 wrote:
are signs of the Jimny ECU "recalibrating". Apparently it may take a little while for the Jimny ECU to realise it has a bigger engine and work out the most efficient air/fuel mixture.



I can without a doubt say this is false, and is false for 99.5% of ecu's in the world

The technology required for an ECU to hugely change and remember mapping is way more than anyone is going to use in a cheap car.

Even if it had the correct o2 and knock sensors to chase a preprogrammed target mixture and knock figure for any given engine load, there is nothing to say that's correct for the new engine.


I really wish even just one of you would stick a piggyback ecu and get it properly tuned, I reckon you'd never shut up about the huge difference in drivability


I agree completely. That is just what my mechanic said when I told him about those points.
I have already made arrangements to have my ECU modified/piggybacked and tuned.
Just waiting for funds.

Getting her on a DYNO tomorrow. They'll also be able to recommend some fine tuning ideas and may be able to alter the ECU too.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:12 pm 
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The fuelling correction relies on the fuel trims that are applied across the entire rev range. The problem is that you've changed the torque curve so the fuelling is incorrect by different amounts across the rev range so the ECU is always trying to readjust. While you cruise the trims adjust the fuelling but then you put your foot down it uses a preset enrichment which may not supply enough fuel. The ECU is tunable but so far I've not got round to looking at this version. I plan on replacing my M13AA with an M16AA (no M18 engine over here) next year so I'll have to do some tweaking, I'm not a fan of piggybacks because they try to correct around 60 maps with just three or four.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 12:53 pm 
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Quote:
I have already made arrangements to have my ECU modified/piggybacked and tuned.
Just waiting for funds.


What are you using to piggy back onto your ECU?
Who are you using to tune it and what is the cost breakdown?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 2:13 pm 
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what does it cost for a full ecu these days. ive been watching that mighty car mods 11 second gramps build and was thinking about what it might take to do something that comprehensive (full haltech or Adaptronic ECU with custom adaptor harness to plug into the factory loom or something) on a m18 jimny. possibly turbo it to like kyzermattingley. the turbos kind unnecicary and probably wouldnt happen for me, but the full engine management would if it was under 2500...
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Post Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:14 pm 
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I was quoted around $2000-2500 for I think haltech, lots of the swift guys run Emanage which is pretty cheap. Not sure there is many work shops on the Gove peninsula that work on that stuff though :?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:55 pm 
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My Dyno'd Jim (on M13 ECU), Mechanic commented running lean at high rpm's, running rich at low rpms. Not enought to damage anything - in his opinion. Could get more power if mixture could be more rich top end.

Same Jim a week before getting a full emmisions test at the Transport for NSW (RTA's) emmisions testing facility at Sydney, they put it on a rolling road and do a similar sort of thing with it. It took two goes to meet the requirement for Euro 3 emmisions. First time failed miserably, second test (obviously after a slight warm up,) it passed.

When I took the readings to local sydney aftermarket ECU dealer he reckons on the first test it fell out of a pre-determined range for the M13 ECU and hence entered 'open loop'. If it does that a for a few cycles I think it can trigger the engine light and the code for "Running Rich/Running Lean". I did get a light maybe twice in 18 months and then it cancelled itself out.

Essentially I think I'm saying that although it's border line to run it on the M13 ECU, who can be bothered to spend $2K on aftermarket ECU when many of us probabaly only spent less than that on the entire conversion?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 2:44 pm 
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squibby wrote:
Essentially I think I'm saying that although it's border line to run it on the M13 ECU, who can be bothered to spend $2K on aftermarket ECU when many of us probabaly only spent less than that on the entire conversion?


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