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az supporter
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Post Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 12:31 pm 
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Good response.

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Location: Northcliffe, W.A.
Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.

Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 10:38 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
So, as I suspected, we’re not taking about the same thing. WA will accept an abridged test. Full adr testing as required by other states is (still) >$3k.

I don’t imagine the abridged test would be acceptable elsewhere in Australia.


https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277 ... s-testing/


A quick google shows NSW accepts the IM240 test for engineering modified engines, which is actually free at Botany. That's the state that the member is from that you were telling the test costs $3.5k

https://speednation.com.au/modified-car ... ons-guide/

https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transact ... ng-booking

In fact, QLD, S.A, ACT also accept the IM240 test for the same purpose. Looks like it's all pretty cheap in those states too. I didn't google the other states/NT. It's a 240 second dyno test, there's no need for it to cost $3.5k

Still no source for the $3500 price and you don't even know which state it came from, sounds like you pulled it out of your arse to me. In any case it seems like the number is way out no matter where you are in the country, maybe you should be posting factual information on the forums. :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 10:47 am 
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Engineer that plated mine said that the only reason the M18 wasn't compliant was due to its lack of EGR and that so long as all emissions control was used from the M13 it complied. If it wasn't an engine from the same family it would be a different story.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2019 1:36 pm 
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Finished conversion to my sons Jimny (2004 non VVT) on the weekend now has 1.5 motor from a cruze. Change in torq is remarkable car has a lot more pull.

Was a really easy conversion just time consuming. Left all the sensors, inlet manifold and throttle body on the M15 engine. Only had to change flywheel, fuel rail, exhaust manifold and bottom pully. I think we could have kept the bottom pully but we had belts for the jimny so changed it over.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 3:06 pm 
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xs4x4 wrote:
Finished conversion to my sons Jimny (2004 non VVT) on the weekend now has 1.5 motor from a cruze. Change in torq is remarkable car has a lot more pull.

Was a really easy conversion just time consuming. Left all the sensors, inlet manifold and throttle body on the M15 engine. Only had to change flywheel, fuel rail, exhaust manifold and bottom pully. I think we could have kept the bottom pully but we had belts for the jimny so changed it over.


Congratulations, definitely worth the effort.

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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 6:22 pm
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2020 11:20 pm 
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Hey,

i am after the swap, to m15a (108hp)
notice from my jimny and the other who make the swap that the engine runs hot
by OBD you notice the city (at winter) is about 97-98, and if i stand for a while it reach the 101-102 (before the swap 91-93, and top 95 by standing)
highway is also the same, 97-102 (91-93 before)
have someone notice OBD coolant temp?
the swap was made by keep all the parts from last engine, exclude injectors
maybe bigger radiator?
please advice, we live in hot country as yours so you are the best example for us (ISRAEL)
thanks

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 5:58 am 
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Hi Minare,
My Jimny is running m18a and OBD temp stays at 89-93. While stationary (at idle) on very hot days with the A/C runnings it can go slightly higher.
The 1.5 should run at the same temperature as the 1.3 but of course, maybe the 1.5 you have is not as efficient as it was when it was new. Did you use the thermostat from the 1.3 or the 1.5?

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 6:25 am 
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Hey Zukenutter,
thank you for your reply,
i will check the issue, compression all pistons, bought from biggest japan engine dealer here.
i can tell you that this symptom appears at least 3 engines 1.5VVT, the same, with no explain.
we are all A/T with external cooler, i bought oil cooler (mocal) hopefully installed this week for tests
but after all we all have the same problem, can you light some mistakes that might we all here did? (we all did with same instructions)

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 10:27 am 
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You may have air trapped in the coolant circuit, there are some posts on here about that.
Face the car uphill and let run with the radiator cap removed, also turn on the cabin heater to ensure the coolant runs through the complete circuit.
Maybe the radiator is old, restricted or damaged??

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 6:04 pm 
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did it, stand about 45 deg , open the cap and did what you describe
my radiator is new (6 months or so), genuine suzuki (hope the engine not throw some dirt that cause something)
we missing something
what is your temp cruising 100 kmh?
this is very frustrating situation

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 6:08 am 
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minare wrote:
what is your temp cruising 100 kmh?


90ºc

Maybe the fan clutch is failing? Other than that I'm out of ideas.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:02 am 
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how can i see again all the pictures of the swap from the first post?

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:19 am 
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minare wrote:
how can i see again all the pictures of the swap from the first post?


Broken links which unfortunately can't be fixed.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:21 am 
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minare wrote:
how can i see again all the pictures of the swap from the first post?


Squibby the op will have to fix the pic links maybe send him a pm

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:31 am 
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I probably still have a copy of them. I know I downloaded and printed the entire first post before I attempted my swap and I'll probably still have everything. I'll check when I get home tonight.

- Tim.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:07 pm 
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Here is the document I made when I did my swap. Its basically a PDF of the first post in this thread but includes the pictures.

- Tim.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 5:48 am 
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many thanks!
does someone also have pictures or explanations for the cooling system?
in Liana, SX4, Swift.. the engine mounted transversely and not as jimny longitudinally
coolant ports has to be change
can someone send more explanations?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 6:37 am 
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All the coolant plumbing needs to be swapped over Minare

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 6:47 am 
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i try to find some hint so i can dig to find my problem.
all the connects swap from the m13a, but maybe something was missed during the process
looks like big difference of temp of input coolant to the engine and the output

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2020 12:22 pm 
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is there any benefit of getting the ECU re programmed for the M15a or can I get a cruze or swift ecu that will give a little more grunt from the bigger motor?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2020 5:36 am 
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No need to swap or re program the ecu for a 1.5.
I run the 1.8 on the Jimny ECU, had it in for almost 6 years, I've done a few teaks along the way to my inlet and exhaust and it runs sweet. I've looked into a re program but the cost outweighs the benefit in my opinion. If however, you have money to burn, please don't let me stop you :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 6:56 pm 
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Great thread and it has given me the confidence to undertake the conversion in my 2001 m13a non vvt to m15a non vvt. So i thought i would add some info to the thread from my swap.
I purchased a 02 holden cruze for $300 and removed the engine and scraped the rest, wreckers were asking $990 for the engine locally which I felt was way to much so a complete car was the best way to source it.
Basically did the swap by myself over 4 days. Was easy enough just need patience to figure it out, something I lack at times. I used the injectors from the m15a and all else was just swapped over from the m13a. The injectors were longer for the m15a so I had no choice. I will swap the intake manifold over at a later date but just wanted to use everything that I knew already worked on the Jimny. The m13a was running rough at times (sometimes on 3 cylinders) and also had the engine light on constantly. No more engine light on and the engine is running really well, glad I did the swap. thanks again to everyone that has added info it definitly helps

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Post Posted: Sun May 31, 2020 2:17 pm 
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Hello everyone,

I wanted to ask. I have been hearing a of a few people who have done the m18a swap and then put the m13a cam shaft in there claiming that it gives much more low end torque.

I cannot find any information on the actual cam shafts. They do have different part numbers.

Does anyone have any information or experience with this?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 8:02 pm 
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Would like to hear where you obtained that info from Zapnologica. From this thread they say that the cam profile is the same. Might have different part numbers as the VVT M18 cam shaft has the trigger wheel for the CAS at the back of the intake came, whereas the M13 Reads it from the front of the exhaust cam, which is also present on the VVT M18 Exhaust cam (so you can leave that in)

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 9:11 am 
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Posting on here as not everyone had Facebook.

M18A users.

Completed an m18a non vvti conversion into Alex Beaumont's 04 non vvti Jimny a few weeks ago.

Used:
- m18a inlet
- m18a throttle body
- m18a IACV (no idle issues after iacv was cleaned up)
- m18a injectors
- m13a fuel rail
- m13a loom and ECU
- Got a new oil filter housing thread and so it sticks straight out (however can fit facing down as well, I've done both)

Tonight took it for a testing run with a wideband o2 sensor to check fueling as there was a concern that the m13a could not accurately provide fuel.

The results are great, no fueling issue. The test was completed in a large long hill and was conducted in 4th and 5th gear at WOT. I also conducted a lengthy drive at all loads and nothing concerning came up.

12-13 under heavy load
13.5 - 14.5 under medium load
14.5 - 17 light load/coasting.

There is a video of the gauge on Facebook Jimny Owners.

So everyone with an m18a Jimny can rest easy in knowing that your engine is not going to blow up from running too lean.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 9:56 am 
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Brenno wrote:
Posting on here as not everyone had Facebook.

M18A users.

Completed an m18a non vvti conversion into Alex Beaumont's 04 non vvti Jimny a few weeks ago.

Used:
- m18a inlet
- m18a throttle body
- m18a IACV (no idle issues after iacv was cleaned up)
- m18a injectors
- m13a fuel rail
- m13a loom and ECU
- Got a new oil filter housing thread and so it sticks straight out (however can fit facing down as well, I've done both)

Tonight took it for a testing run with a wideband o2 sensor to check fueling as there was a concern that the m13a could not accurately provide fuel.

The results are great, no fueling issue. The test was completed in a large long hill and was conducted in 4th and 5th gear at WOT. I also conducted a lengthy drive at all loads and nothing concerning came up.

12-13 under heavy load
13.5 - 14.5 under medium load
14.5 - 17 light load/coasting.

There is a video of the gauge on Facebook Jimny Owners.

So everyone with an m18a Jimny can rest easy in knowing that your engine is not going to blow up from running too lean.
Thats pretty good for an NA engine. No issues at all. I remember i drove one with a wideband too and dont remember any issues.

Sent from my SM-N960N using Tapatalk

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Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2020 10:15 pm
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Vehicle: jimny m18a

Post Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 10:20 pm 
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have you tuned the M18A, for economic consumption with adaptronic?
what is the consumption?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:28 pm 
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Who are you talking to bymyselfalone?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 8:19 pm 
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Brenno wrote:
Who are you talking to bymyselfalone?


Judging from the handle - himself ;)

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Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2020 12:06 pm
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Vehicle: suzuki jimny 2006

Post Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2020 12:10 pm 
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Hi guys.
Has anyone had any issues with the M18 on a auto box

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