[Jezza86]

Paulw wrote:

I was quoted around $2000-2500 for I think haltech, lots of the swift guys run Emanage which is pretty cheap. Not sure there is many work shops on the Gove peninsula that work on that stuff though

i wouldn't do it in gove, but i wont be in gove in 58 days.

squibby wrote:

Essentially I think I'm saying that although it's border line to run it on the M13 ECU, who can be bothered to spend $2K on aftermarket ECU when many of us probabaly only spent less than that on the entire conversion?

wouldnt geting a better map overall improve the engine lifespan? i mean i want to keep this car for a long time, and m18's are already geting a tad on the rare side (for a good low k one )

[nordom]

some info about idle.
I still run M18A throttle body with M18A idle air control valve and have no problems at all: idle is 700-800 rpm, no oscillation at all. The mek-boy, performed swap, said that on older jimnys he encountered that problem, but after changing M18 IACV to M13 IACV, the problem was gone. But my jimny is still ok and running sweet. Seems, that new ECUs are more tolerant, than old ones. Mine is 2009 (made 2008).
BTW, both crankshaft and camshaft sensors are new, but for M13A.

[nordom]

got the P0172 ECU error and can't reset it via computer (will try to disconnect battery for a few days -- it worked with resetting camshaft sensor error), but today took a long trip on the highway and i don't like the way AT behave: it seems, it doesn't switch to the "4-th" gear untill i rev engine up to 5.5k (and that's about 80 mph -- a way wrong speed to want more from jimny on 30's). 60 mph is about at 4.1k rpm. Did someone got that problem?

[Rhinoman]

JTAYL just had his ECU remapped.

[zukenutter]

Rhinoman wrote:

JTAYL just had his ECU remapped.

Tell me more

[nordom]

Rhinoman wrote:

JTAYL just had his ECU remapped.

MOAR! what engine? was it stock M13A ECU remapped, or some custom one? I was thinking about Liana/Aerio ECU, but imaging rearraging pinouts and PITA with connecting it to AT control unit was a nightmare.

[zukenutter]

A little update regarding the dead spot on take off that I've been experiencing. Seems it was an issue with either my #1 oxygen sensor or my extractor. Swapped to OEM manifold and OEM oxy sensor and she's running sweet. I'm a happy boy.

[nordom]

could You please share PNs? Are they stock for M18A or M13A?

[zukenutter]

when I have it out again I'll check if there's a PN but it's just OEM M13A sensor. I have been getting the engine light come on every few weeks to a month since swapping in the 1.8, code is for B1S1 (#1 oxy sensor) every time.

[Rhinoman]

zukenutter wrote:

Rhinoman wrote:

JTAYL just had his ECU remapped.

Tell me more

On another forum he said that it had been flashed but he now says that it was just reset.

[jtayl153]

Rhinoman wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

Rhinoman wrote:

JTAYL just had his ECU remapped.

Tell me more

On another forum he said that it had been flashed but he now says that it was just reset.

Dunno where anyone got remapped from.... Feel free to show me where I said that so I can correct it.
I was pulling ~85HP but running really lean (not enough fuel)
I reset the ECU which fixed the fuel leniency issue and I now pull 97HP

I still have a dead spot every now and then but I'm not too concerned as I am going to supercharge it over the christmas period which will include ECU modification.

Car still rattles a bit when labouring the motor (do 60km/h stick it in 5th and plant your foot - you'll see what I mean) but thats attributed to a motor with more torque and power operating on a smaller car with ladder chassis & live axle - or so my mechanic says.

[atari4x4]

jtayl153 wrote:

Car still rattles a bit when labouring the motor (do 60km/h stick it in 5th and plant your foot - you'll see what I mean) but thats attributed to a motor with more torque and power operating on a smaller car with ladder chassis & live axle - or so my mechanic says.

no, that is called pinging/pinking technically called pre-ignition... put some higher octane fuel in or set the timing.

[zukenutter]

Mine vibrates too under heavy load but it's not pinging.

[Rhinoman]

jtayl153 wrote:

Dunno where anyone got remapped from.... Feel free to show me where I said that so I can correct it.

It was the post shown below from BigJimny. I'm not trying to flame you or distract from the thread, which I'm watching with great interest, I'm trying to decide whether to source a 1.8 or just go for the 1.6 which is readily available in the UK. If someone was to prove that big gains were possible with a reflash then I would make it a higher priority to hack mine in readiness for a conversion.

[quote="jtayl153" post=121541]
I took my Jimny on a DYNO. Since the 1.8L conversion, it's been running lean (not enough fuel in the fuel/air mixture)
First dyno run pulled 48kW - which is slightly more than the 1.3
We flashed the ECU and ran it again
2nd Dyno pulled 65kW - which is more than I was expecting
I also put a deposit down for a supercharge kit. Exciting times.[/quote]

[zukenutter]

^^^
I think Jtay's engine is not running at it's full potential as he's currently running the Jimny throttle body. When I first did my conversion I had the Jimny TB and performance was way down compared to running the TB from the Liana.
He told me he had it flashed at a place on the Gold Coast but it's a bit of a pointless exercise considering the lack of air going in. The fact that his was only producing 48kw prior to flashing suggests that something is wrong.

Mine is definitely performing very well now that I've overcome my dead spot which apparently had nothing to do with the 1.8 swap. I'm sure mine would be pulling way more than 65kw. The 1.8 is a hoot to drive but if it wasn't available locally I would definitely have gone for a locally available, smaller option.
The 1.8 has (on paper) a better power/torque curve for 4x4 but any power increase is going to be nicely noticeable.

[zukenutter]

Also something to consider regarding swaps, this has been mentioned before but worth reiterating.

High compressing = higher risk of detonation and greater need for high octane fuel to avoid pinging (pinking)

VVT M engines
1.3 = 9.5:1
1.5 = 11:1
1.6 = 11:1
1.8 = 9.6:1

High compression gives more bang but at the expense of longevity. Still worthy swaps but just thought I'd make the point.

[muscle]

I did my m18 conversion in july. The TPS on the m18 throttle body was broken. Had to order a new one at painfull price of R2575 (SA Rand or +- 280 Aus doller ) So now running m18 throttle body. But i could have saved all that money by using a m13 TPS. Yes it is possible but you have to modify your m13 throttle shaft. Both m13 and M18 shafts are identical except for the flat TPS drive at the back. Butterfly locating screws are spaced at 32 mm on both shafts. The only delicate thing u have to do is carefully widen the butterfly slot with a 1.5 mm slitting disk ( i used my 115 mm angle grinder ) to accommodate the wider m18 butterfly. A good fitting screwdriver must be used to loosen the butterfly screws. I stripped my m13 throttle body and did it check the feasibility of this modification.

[royce]

Found out yesterday J20 plug tubes fit on M series coil packs, save buying new coils if you crack a tube

Do all Jimnys and Lianas have a pressure regulator and return line on the fuel rail?

[nordom]

Hi. Have anybody had issues with 2008+ jimny AT transmission and M18A? i've lost 4-th gear at first and, then, 3-rd. So now got only two of them, but not for long, if i'll continue to ride. The question basically is: does M18A produced torque kills our TW40E AT?

[atari4x4]

pretty sure it's at the limit behind the 1.3, are you running any sort of transmission cooler/gauge?

[zukenutter]

royce wrote:

Do all Jimnys and Lianas have a pressure regulator and return line on the fuel rail?

Yes on the VVT 1.3 and 1.8

[royce]

zukenutter wrote:

royce wrote:

Do all Jimnys and Lianas have a pressure regulator and return line on the fuel rail?

Yes on the VVT 1.3 and 1.8

excellent

Does the 2nd o2 sensor have a square green plug?
looks like this?

[nordom]

atari4x4 wrote:

yess!! pretty sure it's at the limit behind the 1.3, are you running any sort of transmission cooler/gauge?

yepp, I've got new main cooler and additional Hayden transmission cooler (model 1676) with Long 708-4739 Thermostat/bypass.

[Wolf]

I was told by the suzi wreckers at molindiner that the lianas stoped being produced in 09? Has anyone had trouble in queensland getting the 1.8 in a 2008 on car??

[Jazzor]

nordom wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

yess!! pretty sure it's at the limit behind the 1.3, are you running any sort of transmission cooler/gauge?

yepp, I've got new main cooler and additional Hayden transmission cooler (model 1676) with Long 708-4739 Thermostat/bypass.

Do you have a temp gauge to see what temp its running at too?

I googled them items and my cooler is 2-3x larger and it still gets very hot (will go over 120 and climb to 150) if you don't knock it back a gear so the auto is not working as hard (this makes it take a lot longer to climb up temps). I didn't know you could even get auto thermostats, but I don't think this auto in our climate has the problem of being too cold .

[Wolf]

So i think i might be limmited to the m16a, what are prices usualy for them?, i still want the 18

[Jacked Jimny]

I am also curious as I have a 09 jimny
which motor would be a legal conversion

[zukenutter]

1.5 Swift or 1.6 Swift Sport are your options based on previous chat here

[nordom]

Ok, here we go again: confirmed third AT killed by M18A torque. All rigs had coolers installed, ran for less than a year on M18A. AFAIK, all three were post 2006, so new ver. of TW40E has been installed. My new swapped AT (from a 60k km stock AT jimny) is already showing P0752 error (although, no misbehaviour yet), so i'm begining to think about reinforcement of stock AT or swaping to some Toyota AT.

[Jazzor]

What's the failure?

Out of interest:
What are your temps like on the flat, going up short/long hills?, 4wding fast/slow?


Mine's still going fine with an M15A, its an 03 auto.