It's been a while since I done a DIY on here, so here go's.
As usual, I am not a mechanic or what ever, If you choose to do this, It's at your own risk. Myself or Auszookers take no responsibility for your actions blah blah blah.I've got some GTi seats to go into my LWB tray back / cab chassis, Now the SJ51T has a different non adjustable seat rail arrangement to your regular LWB and SWB - these use the same elevated type passenger seat rail. (basically the SJ51T are a fixed back seat)
The Pro's:
- Well they're GTi seats, comfy as F@#K, Especially comparing to the standard milk crate.
- They look a hell of a lot better
- Reclinable to access behind and under the seat / extra pocket behind the seat = More storage.
The Con's:
- In the cab chassis, there's not alot of extra leg room, Your actually sacrificing a bit so if your a tall bastard, Don't bother.
- Not being able to recline it in the fully sick dentist position like you can in a soft top when cruising.
I am only explaining the Passenger side as there is only one small extra step, but the drivers side is the same theory. There may be a few other options on how you mount the seats, this is the way I think is best.
YOU WILL NEED:Obviously GTi seats / I suppose you could also use any brand aftermarket or even standard Sierra seats
2 x Drivers side adjustable seat rails from a SWB
8mm & 11mm Drill bits
M8 Nutsert's & tool
Original bolts
A short KENO PencilFirst, ditch the GTi seat rails off the seats. The passenger side has a cable for the rear passenger's to press to get out, Just chop it and remove the screw that holds it in place.
These are the standard pissy SJ51T seat rails, get rid of them too.
This is a SWB Sierra Driver's side seat rail on the passanger side. Note that the mounting hole WILL BE DIFFERENT TO ORIGINAL but whaddya know, The rails bolt holes lines up puuurfectly. Origato Suzuki-san.
Starting with the RHS rail (the one with the lever), Line the rail up against the seat you will see that one bolt hole already lines up, Again, thank you Mr Suzuki. You just need to make it a couple of mm bigger to fit the standard bolt through. This is where you need the 8mm drill bit.
BUUT this is the tricky bit. You need to make a new hole in the rail for the front bolt hole in the seat. This is how I overcome this. Grab your Keno pencil and chop off the tip, taper it a little and thread it into the mounting hole of the seat. With the rear rail / seat bolt screwed in a couple of threads, swing the rail across the pencil. This will give you a "longitude" marking. Measure the rail and mark the centre (I measured the centre to be 22mm). Now that's where you gotta drill out with the 8mm drill bit.
Shhmart aye. Just make sure the pencil is at a 90degree angle by using a set square to make sure it's straight.
OK that's one rail done.
The LHS is a bit different. There's no bolt threads to screw into, BUUT Once again the Suzuki mob are a smart bunch, There's already a couple of holes there which line up once again PUUUURFECTLY to the seat rail. This is where you need the Nutserts.
OK now, I know a few tech heads might have a difference of opinion about using nutserts for holding the seat in place,
But I did run this by an automotive engineer and has given me the thumbs up The nutserts I have used are zinc plated high tensile steel.
I highly recommend for you to check with your local engineer signatory before you do this, Different states, different rules!!For the M8 nutsert, you will need to drill out the seats holes to 11mm. Fix the nutsert in place. And repeat the previous keno pencil trick and drill out the front rail hole.
Other than that, Time to chuck it in the car, bolt them down and enjoy.
Again, This demonstration is only for the passenger side, but the driver's side is practically the same.