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Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2017 1:44 pm
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Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny 2012

Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:43 am 
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Hi
Looking at getting a JB GV after test driving a heap of the competition (rav4's, sportage, tuscon, xtrail etc).
I am looking at 2nd hand and from what i have read about i wanna stay clear of at least the earlyer 2.4's

i would rather a manual but what are the auto's like reliability wise? and how many km's would i expect to get out of them is the 4 speed better then the 5 speed?

engine wise the 3.2 seems to be most reliable followed by the 2L and 2.7.
so would i be better off with a 3.2 which was auto only
or going for a manual 2L
or going for a manual 2.7L

it would be mostly a highway cruiser and shopping cart and may do the odd trail following our jimny

have test drivien a 2L manual and was happy with it and would of brought it but it was sold while test driving the other vechile's

also does any suspension lift other then ome add suspension travel? the roads where i live are horrible and you just about need a baja buggy for its suspension

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 11:00 pm
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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:22 am 
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I'm not aware of any particular problems with the autos, and as always, an auto is far superior off road, especially as it goes some way to compensate for the tall gearing of the GV.

No suspension lift for the JB adds travel as far as I am aware - to the contrary, the higher spring rates used to maintain lift reduce wheel travel compared to standard car form what I've seen running JB's up a travel ramp.

Also be aware the front suspension bush design is allergic to lift.

I've driven a 3.2 and it certainly performed well but isn't a particularly economical car.

Steve.

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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:50 pm
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Vehicle: 2006 2.7 prestige auto.

Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 8:45 pm 
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I have had a 2.7 auto for about 3 years now. They use all of the fuel. I think it’s the pre 2010 2.4 that cracked blocks. Front lower control arm bushes are short lived apparently even at stock height. The travel is limited by shock/strut length so as Steve has said any of the available kits don’t really make any difference to travel. The longest front struts I could find are from dobinsons . They don’t let you fit bigger rubber either. The common upgraded tyre size is a 245/75/16. That will fit maybe with a slight rub on the front gaurd at full lock.

The 2.7 can develop a timing chain rattle around 150k ish.

Ironman make bash plates if doing a lot off-road not a bad idea but will cost you a little clearance.

The post 09 vehicles have traction control which makes them better off road in all places except the sand.

Reasonably limited aftermarket support for them. You still can’t find a rated front recovery point for them without buying a front bar that will accommodate them .

Also check that the 2.0 actually has a proper low range box.

I have never heard of any issues in the autos 4 or 5 speed.
M

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Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2017 1:44 pm
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Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny 2012

Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:29 pm 
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Fuel usage so long as its around 10-11L or less on the highway i would be happy enough with as that will be 90% of what it does ie its an hour to go shopping where i live.

Unless i can find a 3.2 with fabric seats they are out as the leather seats are too stiff/firm and gave back issues in the test drive i did today :( which is the problem i had with most of the other cars i drove.

All the 5 door's had low range i thought?

The offroading will only be tracks around the Grampians etc so nothing too serious or hardcore just shale tracks and clearance required.

So with the suspension they just increase the spring rate rather then increase the spring height then to get the lift, does anyone do new std height springs other then suzuki? kings did not have a std height spring listed.

does the 2L have any known issues?

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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:00 am
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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: 98 5 dr SQ420, 05 5dr JB420

Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:13 pm 
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The 2L will either be a J20A or J20B, they like clean oil & regular changes otherwise you'll have timing chain issues, the same goes for the 2.7 by the way.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:27 pm 
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thanks for that, so good way to tell if its been looked after then

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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:50 pm
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Vehicle: 2006 2.7 prestige auto.

Post Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 5:23 pm 
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The best I can do with mine on PULP is mid 12’s I have lift and bigger rubber. The springs are higher and stiffer. It’s a pity you don’t like the 3.2. From all accounts it’s the best of the bunch.

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:13 pm 
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Lyonsy wrote:

Unless i can find a 3.2 with fabric seats they are out as the leather seats are too stiff/firm and gave back issues in the test drive i did today :( which is the problem i had with most of the other cars i drove.



I'm to sure what pre-existing back condition from you have, but soft seats are implicated in back pain far more than than firm seats. Specialised orthopaedic vehicle seats (such as Recaro Ergomed) are very much firmer than any factory seat. The seat facing isn't a factor in support or comfort, the underlying foam and structure is. In any case, I'm sure you'd find someone who'd bw more than willing to swap cloth seats for leather.

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So with the suspension they just increase the spring rate rather then increase the spring height then to get the lift, does anyone do new std height springs other then suzuki? kings did not have a std height spring listed.


It's much more complicated than that. A longer spring (free) is longer compressed, which there isn't always room for. A taller spring with a factory rate won't work for this reason. Many "lift" springs are in fact shorter than the factory springs, the lift comes from more rate. A standard height spring with more rate would be shorter again and then the springs would fall out on flex. lifting suspension is an exercise in compromise and the lower the lift the less the compromise. The hard limit for a JB is 45mm in any case. Suspension travel is limited by the shock and strut length, and the lift springs merely reset the "rest" position of the suspension, while the higher rate prevents the suspension compressing onto the bump stop in normal use.

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Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:00 pm
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Location: perth

Post Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:49 pm 
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Ngv flex is pretty much non existant which was the main reason i went for the 2dr to compensate. Id imagine the 4dr would destroy sills and get hung up quite often.
Pic is with 45mm dobinsons lift and 245/75r16
Note full compression on the front and full droop in the rear, about 4" total if your lucky

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Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:00 pm
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Location: Waikerie

Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:25 am 
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Lyonsy wrote:

Unless i can find a 3.2 with fabric seats they are out as the leather seats are too stiff/firm and gave back issues in the test drive i did today :( which is the problem i had with most of the other cars i drove.


Dunno what issues you have, but as one with a "crook back" I'll always go for a firmer seat. If a can't find a firm seat I'll firmerise it as much as I can, with extra springs, insertion rubber sheet .. whatever works. (spine broken in 3 places).

Leather seats are a dream, as they'll gradually form to the shape of your arr-send

Pretty sure the suzuki auto boxes are supplied by Peugeot, and seem to be near bullet proof.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:53 am 
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Peugeot? They’re not Aisin Warner?

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Location: Waikerie

Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:09 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Peugeot? They’re not Aisin Warner?
8O umm ... shit .... dunno now .... :?

I know the originals were ... or at least were the same design .... :roll: back to the history bin for more researchies I guess ...







... edit .... maybe I's getting confused with the diesel engine 'n' stuff .... ??

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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:27 pm 
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Diesel engine is a Renault product.
The trimatic (AKA TH-180) used in the carby vitara was reportedly made under license by Peugeot, but the ones I’ve seen all have GM badging on them.

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Joined: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:20 am
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Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: '85 Sierra LWB, '99 GV 2.5L

Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:12 pm 
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My 2c

A late 2.4l has traction control & seems to be over the head cracking issues of the earlier cars, has a choice of trim, enough power, still going to be 12+ l/100km, especially if you mod it. Not a bad option - hopefully longer term reliability is ok.

3.2l is the gun, but all (?, I think) come as 'Prestige' with all the fruit, inc. auto only, leather, sunroof, TC, climate control etc. can be a bit too responsive to the throttle off road, is going to be mid 12's+ l/100km, unless you are on a trip & lightly loaded. My pick though, I could own one. I've driven (road test only, not off road) 2 examples & easliy bring a smile to my dial - that's rare for me, from a 4WD. Being bought for $15k up-wards now, a lot of car for the money. Weird fault, not only with the 3.2l but all 2009-11 cars, inc. diesel, is the pox design of the HVAC box drain - leaks inside the car, making the P/S footwell wet. A dash out job to fix - A Suzuki dealer apparently wanted $1600 to effect a fix & even then was reluctant to do it, it really is 2 guys for the whole day.

2.0l is going to be a bit underdone on steep stuff off road, esp. with bigger tyres, auto will be better than manual here, but dozy - as has been said, the whole series is high geared.

2.7l is oldish now, doesn't have TC, is going to need chains sometime soon, drinks like a fish - certainly no more economical than a 3.2 & feels like it has 2/3rds the power by comparison, manual feels more responsive than the auto. Not a bad option (apart from the lack of TC) & getting $6k cheap.

Diesel is not my cup of tea, never owned a diesel anything & not likely to do so. Turbos dodgy & expensive ++ to fix. Got offered a blown up diesel complete car for $1500 recently & still didn't want it at that price. Still high geared, laggy of the line, manual only. Can get power up chips for them, go better, but for how long?.

245/75R16 is the go. Later cars have 17's (in which case, 245/70R17) & the 3.2l Prestige have 18's. The Suzuki 16" alloys just, just (as in too close, but don't actually touch) fit on a 3.2l - steels might be ok. Hyundai Tuscon 16" alloys fit, but bring the ugly.
There is a sort of fix for the front control arm rear bush - SuperPro bush kit SPF3386K, less compliance, but longer lasting.
No chassis on these cars & tyre noise is an issue to be aware of. 2 brands of M/T tyres which are not 'noisy' as such on other 4WDs are noticeably noisier on a JB/JT GV, to the point of distraction.
Ironman do a bullbar, suspension kit, bash plates & are developing recovery points, front & rear - was pleasantly impressed by all on a car we had in.
Every time I get under one, I look at the sub-frame design & think about putting some 25mm packers in between them & the body. Not likely to be legal, but would be interesting. Should then allow the exhaust to be split & run over the diff - stupid currently under it. Reduce / relocate the rear muffler, use the space for more fuel tank
Any of them have flaws, but are better than any of the similar size alternatives. Thought the recent Jeep Renegade could have been ok, but silly expensive & not that useful off road, apparently.

Have fun, Rgs, Michael

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Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:00 pm
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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:49 pm 
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3.2 can be hard to get parts for especially at a reasonable price given there rarity in suzuki terms at least

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Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2017 1:44 pm
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Vehicle: Suzuki Jimny 2012

Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:21 pm 
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the seats stiff comes in mostly due to how bad the roads are where i am, the seat back was fine being stiff but the base needs some give in it to take the initial shock out of bumps and lets the suspension then do its work, the fabric seats where quite good at this the leather ones where bad, not as bad a Lexus and Mazda cx5 but for stiffness where the 2nd gen toyota rav4 had opposite issue of being too soft
I did my L5S1 disc and while it has supposedly healed it does not like driving anymore an d have to have a very upright seating position would be close to a 10deg seat back if it was a fixed seat this may also be why seat base stiffness is critical.

so n one does a longer std rate spring with the same amount of coils to prevent coil bind when bottoming out then or a dual rate variable rate spring where the top 1/4 of the spring binds or is close to but when needed for extra droop extends and puts downward pressure (thats what they do for the 4in suspension increase but 2in lift only kits)


only hills i have to worry about are pentlands on the way out to near the vic deserts,

oh how good at dust sealing is the GB? as i do a fair bit of dirt road driving as the dirt roads are generally smoother and in better condition then the tar so where possible its dirt roads, i have read it is pretty good but any area's to watch?

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Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:12 pm
Posts: 32
Vehicle: 2010 NGV

Post Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 2:34 pm 
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My experience:
I have had the J24B model since new 2010 with a 4 speed auto. We have just clocked up around 144,000km in that time (99% on road, shopping trolley stuff). The only thing needing replacing in that time has been the water pump (aside from the usual consumables - battery, brakes). The car has been really reliable and comfortable, and we are quite happy with it. It is unfortunately pretty thirsty - using the car gauge (which can be a bit inaccurate), we get around 8.6km/l combined (urban/highway) or 11.6l/100km. With the 66l tank this means a range of around 500km - this means carrying jerries if doing longer range touring (I have two 20l I strap to the basket on the roof), which is a bit of a nuisance - there are no options for long range tanks.

As the family has gotten older, I have been looking to be a bit more adventurous with it. We've put on some A/Ts - I went for 225/75 R16s (Falken wildpeaks) - I was wary of going bigger b/c of possible effect on gearing and i didn't want to increase rolling resistance (and fuel consumption) more than necessary by going for wider tyres. Noise with the A/Ts is increased, but not too bad so far (but these ones are only 5,000km in). I will be getting the dobinsons kit this month (40mm), mainly because the stock suspension sags the rear end when loaded for holiday (at max gvm - all 400kgs) and the original shocks are showing signs of their age. I will probably get the ironman bash plates as well. I even built my own 'custom' rear drawer system to fit in a fridge.

@ ZUZUKI - you mentioned that ironman are developing recovery points!?! I have been looking for a solution for that that didn't involve an XROX bar (don't like em and I am told the local coppers like to hassle ppl with them) - I'd be keen as to get some (for rear recovery, i just have a hitch on the towbar). I called the local ironman centre the other and said their were no options for front recovery, but this was just the receptionist, so I guess they wouldn't necessarily be aware of new/upcoming development.

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Joined: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:20 am
Posts: 260
Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: '85 Sierra LWB, '99 GV 2.5L

Post Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 2:35 am 
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Hi HamiHarr,
I have seen the prototype front & rear sets (one each side) fitted to a car (in Melb.).
I don't have any contact with Ironman & have no idea how long that means before they could be available.
Suggest contact head office & let them know you are interested.
Rgs, Michael

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Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:12 pm
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Vehicle: 2010 NGV

Post Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 1:11 pm 
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ZUZUKI wrote:
Hi HamiHarr,
I have seen the prototype front & rear sets (one each side) fitted to a car (in Melb.).
I don't have any contact with Ironman & have no idea how long that means before they could be available.
Suggest contact head office & let them know you are interested.
Rgs, Michael


I did chase Ironman about this and they claimed no knowledge, again it was hard to tell if I was talking to the right person - I definitely let them know that I was interested. Thanks again for mentioning it, I'll bug them again down the track.

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