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Post Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 11:05 am 
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I was just thinking of either running a couple of cables from the start battery, Isolator switch and anderson plug. Flick the switch when your on the move so it charges the trailer battery, turn it off when your parked.

The other easier option is again with an anderson plug, to the trailer battery and simply recharge it when you get home or via Solar.

The battery I have is a 30Ah, and mainly to run lights and a stereo. I can easily get 3 nights worth of fluro light with a 17Ah. The battery's were pulled from those jump starter packs at auto stores. ;)

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 11:33 pm 
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Think i'm just gunna go with one of these

http://www.arkcorp.com.au/Products/Batt ... k.tpl.html

There would be a good chance i would stuff up on the wiring with a battery setup so in the long run that power pack would be the cheaper/safer option :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:12 am 
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Nah, for the price I'm sure you could make something similar out of a regular battery box, get a couple of Ciggie sockets and a volt meter and it's pretty much the same.

A better option that I thunk of getting would be to buy a jump starter pack, at least they already have a battery and are more of a multi use item for pretty much the same price as that ARK battery box, the bigger the battery pack the more Ah it has.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:44 am 
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What does Ah stand for? :oops:


and don't say ass hole :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:58 am 
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Last edited by buzbox on Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:02 am 
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Abr sidewinder do a kit specifically for this, it's the kit I have in the zook so I can just take the whole thing out when not in use. Anyways the kit is on there website. Sorry didn't realize we had moved on when was reading through, this was for joe question about dual battery in the trailer

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:11 am 
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Cool thanks guys, i'm not gunna do anything till xmas is out of the way so i still have plenty of time to look around so keep the ideas coming :helloo:

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:22 am 
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Early next year Super cheap will be stocking a new style and larger jump starter packs, so keep an eye out for discontinued stock which may come down in price.

When I worked there, the ones that had been returned or refunded as damaged I use pull the batteries out of them, take the isolator switch's and ciggie plugs. They were going to end up in the bin anyways.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:29 am 
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Cool will do cheers man :D

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:19 am 
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Joe wrote:
What does Ah stand for? :oops:


and don't say ass hole :lol:


think of a battery as a water tank and ah as liters

so you might have a battery that holds 50 litres and a fridge that needs 1 litre per hour (on average) to keep running, so after 50 hours your batery will be dead flat

so as long as your battery capacity is higher than how much your stuff uses for the time you want to use it you are laughing (but keep in mind its better to only use half the liters in your battery so it doesnt ruin it)

If you want a hand with making up stuff to work with a trailer let me know, its as simple as a basic dual battery controller under the bonnet, some fat cable to an anderson plug on the tow bar and more fat cable and some fuses to the battery mounted on a trailer, and youd still be cheaper than buying some crappy box

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:48 am 
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i want to do this to my boat trailer.
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Last edited by joel on Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:48 am 
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Cool thanks Royce ill keep that in mind :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:45 am 
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Bought this today as a work trailer. I've been using my dad's 6x4 lately and found it extremely handy and versatile. Got to add tradie rack and mesh sides.

Also needs a good tidy up too including a bit of a re-wire, but has to be for as little as possible. :oops:

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:46 am 
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took the wheels off to check the bearings and start scraping off the surface rust and, this is how it looked before I started.

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Turns out the previous owner has just replaced the bearings and grease. Yay! Weren't tight enough though so sorted that. Had a good look around underneath and seems to be better than I'd expected.

While the wheels are off I thought I'd start the paint process too with a lick of charcoal metallic hammertone to match the Jim's wheels.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:38 am 
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I just rewied my trailer and I have heaps of left over 7 core wire left over. I think there is about 4mts or so left. I thought to use the wiring for camp lights and stuff but If I don't I'll send it your way. Oh and I've replaced my lights with LED's so I've got a pair of new tail lights I was going to stick up on ebay.

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If you want a hand with making up stuff to work with a trailer let me know, its as simple as a basic dual battery controller under the bonnet, some fat cable to an anderson plug on the tow bar and more fat cable and some fuses to the battery mounted on a trailer, and youd still be cheaper than buying some crappy box


Mind drawing up a diagram and parts list please.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:31 pm 
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Quote:
If you want a hand with making up stuff to work with a trailer let me know, its as simple as a basic dual battery controller under the bonnet, some fat cable to an anderson plug on the tow bar and more fat cable and some fuses to the battery mounted on a trailer, and youd still be cheaper than buying some crappy box


Mind drawing up a diagram and parts list please.[/quote]

Parts depend on your cable length and so on but 8 gauge would be enough, might be better to earth to teh body / chassis rather than run an earth all teh way back

any dual battery controller that can cope with teh battery not being there sometimes

some sort of fuse holders and sockets if thats the way you roll


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Post Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 12:18 am 
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And what amp solar controller would be brest? or does it depend on the amp output of the panel?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:07 am 
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yeah whatever suits your panel, mine has the controller velcroed to the panel and then I just plug it into either end of the car with a little anderson plug

Actually these are worth putting in here, Anderson power pole connectors they are called and are just a small Anderson plug, I have a fused one either end of the car and the same on my solar panel, my LED tripod light and a small sealed battery

because they always match polarity no matter what way you connect them, I can charge my batteries, charge the small battery, run the LED light off the car or the small battery, makes for a lot less plugs and so on around the place

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:52 pm 
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Not sure if this exists anywhere in this thread so thought I'd add it.

VSB1 - 'Building Small Trailers'

Self Assessment Statutory Declaration

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 am 
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Any updates on the old trailer build up Mr Nutter?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 12:37 pm 
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Out of interest, what are people spraying their hubs with? Cold galv be best I assume? Got the nice shiny F100 hubs for my trailer and fitted them up without noticing that they were just nice shiny mild steel. Now covered in rust :evil:

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:57 pm 
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Moph wrote:
Out of interest, what are people spraying their hubs with? Cold galv be best I assume? Got the nice shiny F100 hubs for my trailer and fitted them up without noticing that they were just nice shiny mild steel. Now covered in rust :evil:


I use Kill Rust on the hubs and pretty much everything else. Cold Gal will work really well too.

[hr]

Just need to get it rego'd now

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 6:47 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
Moph wrote:
Out of interest, what are people spraying their hubs with? Cold galv be best I assume? Got the nice shiny F100 hubs for my trailer and fitted them up without noticing that they were just nice shiny mild steel. Now covered in rust :evil:


I use Kill Rust on the hubs and pretty much everything else. Cold Gal will work really well too.


x2 on killrust :P

Looks good Mr Nutter :D

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:18 am 
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Joe wrote:
zukenutter wrote:
Moph wrote:
Out of interest, what are people spraying their hubs with? Cold galv be best I assume? Got the nice shiny F100 hubs for my trailer and fitted them up without noticing that they were just nice shiny mild steel. Now covered in rust :evil:


I use Kill Rust on the hubs and pretty much everything else. Cold Gal will work really well too.


x2 on killrust :P

Looks good Mr Nutter :D


Pretty good for brush on. If you put it on thick enough the brush strokes settle well. :wink:

Pretty good trailer for $350 not inc. rego.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:10 am 
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alright trailer peeps, what off road hitches are you all running?

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:20 am 
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Cheapy no name from ebay.
Tradesmans Trailers Bayswater Vic,

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:24 am 
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i like the look of that, nice & low profile. 8)

EDIT:this one ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Trailer- ... 5ae428bec0

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Last edited by atari4x4 on Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:32 am 
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traditional offroad poly block

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:38 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i like the look of that, nice & low profile. 8)

EDIT:this one ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Trailer- ... 5ae428bec0


That looks a bit better, the spring on pin would help stop rattles.
Which are not too bad. Thats about same price I paid.
Could be same seller, they change ID a lot

Close ups of mine


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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 10:04 am 
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I'll be upgrading to an ozhitch, bit dearer but less people have them so not as easy to steal. And i like the pivot point not being on the towball tongue.

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