[gardnep]

I have followed Pete79 's trailer build for quite a while and asked for a copy of his plans which he graciously sent, thanks. I started in a similar vein just over 12 months ago, or was it more? I seem to have old timers disease. I am renoun for not finishing things but there is some evidence of activities spurred on by the thought that I might get to Tibooburra in June. The size was determined by the size of our 1500 mm long double camping mattress. The other dimension was because we have another trailer that width and I thought to save money I could use the axle and springs. I now realise a 1978 trailer bits might not make it so have opted for new 750 kg suspension and axle. Surprisingly that trailer has the same hubs as this Suzuki and 16 inch narrow rims (with bar tread tyres). I wanted to bend the sided but after making the brake bender did not eat enough wheatbix to bend 1.6 mm mild steel sheet. It has now been modified to have flat sides with rhs surrounds. I had cut the sheets to 1500 mm x 560 mm to allow for the bends but now have to recut and join a bit on. Welding is a bit rough, unfortunately on a number of occasions, too numerous to mention, penetration has not been a problem but thankfully someone invented angle grinders. Not sure how to post pics so might need some help along the way.

[otorndahl]

Like your trailer write up, but you know we all like to see pics, so here is what I have found to work pretty good
I had trouble figuring this out too, and after much research, I found imgur to fit the bill pretty good
Create an account with imgur. Unlimited storage, upload's and no expiration date. And during upload there is even a feature
to downsize your pics, so you can post them here
Create account and click on images



Click on auto resize, choose your size and click on add images



Click on browse, chose the pics on your computer and click open



Now your pics are uploaded to imgur and ready to use
Click the new topic or post reply button and click on the Img button



Open imgur on a different page, and click on the pic you want to use.



You will then get a picture
with a bunch off different links to use. Click on the copy butten with the Direct link



Then go back and paste in the link



Then hit the Preview butten and you should get a preview off your post, to make sure
every thing is OK before you post it





If everything looks good, go ahead and hit Submit

[otorndahl]

Oh ad max pic size here is 1024x768

[gardnep]

The build has been slow and a few medical interventions did not help. Unfortunately the post has been taken over by an add for a pic processing program so shoul it continue or should the administrator remove the irrelevant content?

[shep]

I can delete the post however it is done to help you post pics and isnt a ad

[gardnep]

I tried to link to pic in Facebook but it doesn't seem work. I'm a bit reluctant to use the pic hosting sites because I can see the extraordinary amount of damage they have done to this and other sites by refusing access and inserting placeholders in place of pics.They have made most posts virtually unreadable.

After trying both facebook and google pics to load pics tonight all I can say is good luck. I thought google would work but I can post a link and that doesnt work.

Progress so far is, the sides are on using 40 x 40 for the frame and 1.6 mm sheet for sides and bottom. I tried to put a side folding door on the rear but it failed due to my inability to get it right so after putting it on and cutting it off 3 times, both front and rear doors are fold down and work well. I have 750 kg leaf springs, a 57 inch axle with electric brakes and 139.7 pcd hubs. 10 inch mudguards are almost on, and I discovered that pop riveting is easier to attach them than brute force and welding, I'll weld those holes with the mig when I'm finished. The shock absorber and mounting hardware should arrive in the next couple of days from http://www.couplemate.com.au ($95). I need to find 3 or 4 rims to fit the suzuki hubs, there seem to be a few available around Brisbane on Gumtree but we'll see what comes up. I have plenty of stuff for the electrics but will need a brake controller. I noticed Pete79 had problems with crushing the electric brake cable so I'll be planning to shield it in a few layers of plastic tube. Put some sound deadener on the underside, it was a bit hard to get out of the tin in Armidale's 10 degree winter weather. Looks good in hammertone.

[gardnep]

Well, I loaded 4 images into imgur and this is all I get:- .

So that works doesn't it? This computer has already done one trip across the room last night. At the moment the text description will have to surfice. If these come out you will see that the hanger is welded onto 12mm and that is welded onto the 40 mm square. I did that because I dont trust my welding straight onto the thinner 2 mm tube. It gives a greater surface area to attach the brackets.

Mudguards are on, finally seem to have mastered the mig and only blew 4 or 5 holes, to fill in today. Penetration is not a problem. The couplemate shocks arrived today and seem to be designed for this trailer. I noticed the price has gone from $95 to $132 overnight. Must have been the dollar rising by 30% overnight. Maybe they are owned by the same medical profession that charged me $50 for a two minute consult yesterday. Tried tack welding the upper bracket upsidedown, that was such a mess, I decided to tip it over on the side. Just hope nothing else suffers because my hydraulic extension arm too seems to be stuffed. As you can see imgur has been mastered. Eight degrees here tomorrow so might need a fire in it to warm me and the trailer. Lessons for the week include dont try and weld through hamertone, hammertone is a bastard to get off even with a grinding disc, sound deaden bitument stuff sticks like sheit to a blankt and blocks up grinding discs, dont attempt welding upsidedown, where you cant see. Now the technology is sorted more pic might miraculously appear. PG

[gardnep]

Progress report
Mudguards are on, I cut them off so there is 100 - 125 mm clearence over the tyre, I hope that is enough, it was enough for the 16 inch tyres on my old trailer.





Suspension is all connected up and shock absorbers are on. Ihad to buy new bolts because couplemate bolts were too short for the bracket they sent.


Body is just about done but am wondering if I should fill in the sides around the mudguards. I would like to have somewhere to carry the tarp poles and was thinking of putting them down the sides. Unfortunately I did not see zooknutters build before I commenced, his seems like a stroke of genius. There is room for a jerry can in front of the mudguards.


To do: front hitch, electrics, rear bracket for tail lights, fill it sides??

[pete_79]

Looking good mate!

I've been toying with enclosing the sides around my mudguards for ages...
It's just so much work to do that job properly.

Perhaps some 100mm PVC pipe mounted on saddles along the side will do to hold your tarp poles for now?

My advise is to get out and use it, then you'll have a better idea of what sort of compartments and storage you need for your individual setup.

[gardnep]

We have wheels after a quick trip to Brisbane. A couple of 200 mm side brackets to hold 100 mm tubes for tent poles. Wheels are about 7 mm outside mudguard, who will notice? Pics coming next.

[gardnep]

Trailer now 1600 mm x 1180 mm

Wheels look pretty good, and have a bit of tread



Rear view, not sure to enclose the tail lights or have them exposed on some 2 mm Al tread plate. Put some latches on so they vibrate tighter


This is the plan. gives me the option of enclosing the sides or carrying a couple of jerry cans and gas cylinders. I think I will round over some Al tread plate to look official and focus registration on things that dont protrude too much.


Too do: Lighting and brakes - probably put a bit of braze on the frame to give the brakes a bit of earthing, probably put the electrics in small diameter rhs tubes to protect it.
Bolt tow hitch on. Al tread plate for lights. 5/8 rod for tie bar on side. Two chains to weld on, Paint charcoal hammertone. A couple of 40 mm tubes to hold a box on the front. Found an 800 mm triangular 'caravan' box at a dealer in town for $254. Two by 100 x 1500 mm tubes and end caps and ring clamps. Reflectors and number plate light. Last but not least the lid for which I have 2 lengths of 25 mm x 1.6 mm rhs, planning to weld it together to form a single box 25 mm x 53 mm and hinge it to the top. Put roof rack on the lid. Two spare tyres to fit somewhere, maybe on the roof rack or front box? Too many plans....

[gardnep]

A few finishing touches needed. Colour is Metallic Charcoal from Supercheap. Rails will go on if the gas holds out. Need to work on the top but will look at rego first. Will need a brake controller first. Picked up a 60ap Commander cruise control from Autobarn for $89. So happy with that. Need to rig up the clutch switch. Is the drawbar too long? The 25 mm x 1.6 mm rhs underneath is for the top. I intend to weld the two together to form a figure 8 and mount that vertical on the top so it will be 25 x 53 mm rhs and will hold the roof rack in the background of third pic.

I cut some 16 mm rhs and placed a 300mm led strip light in it for a number plate light but dubious if it will pass so added a cheapo number plate light.


It has 2 x 10 mm chains so they cross over on attachment as you are aware it is a standard on caravans so if the coupling is unattached the drawbar does not plough into the road (were they only thinking of road maintenance?). A bit worried about the electric cable that goes through the rhs and is very close to the ball when attached.


Sits very level. there is about 25 mm difference between front and back when attached.

[gardnep]

Towed well empty to get the weighbridge ticket says 260 kgs. Got my suspension bits from Towworld in Tamworth and they were good to deal with. Now have to produce all my receipts for the bits to the mechanic for a blue slip. Just hope it works. Bairnsdale autoelectrics were pretty fast getting a Primus IQ brake controller to me (~$80 freight free). Bit of a drama pulling lining off and running wiring to the socket at the tow bar (might still have to drill a bigger hole in the floor for the blue wire) but the trailer brakes work.

[pete_79]

That's pretty good considering you've got shocks, a decent sized axle and electric brakes on there.

Getting close to hitting the road now...

[Grags]

Just saying that before you get too far down the track I'd be creating an A frame from some 50 x 50 x 4 mm angle iron coming from under the trailer bed to meet somewhere around the hitch. You really need that drawbar area to be super stiff and absorb loads and shocks across more area

[gardnep]

It has been a while since I posted. there is a fine line between stiff and flexible. All metals flex to some extent. Drawbar has 12mm x 1.2 m flat welded underneath, about 600mm either side where it joins to the trailer and now has two 50 mm x 6 mm angle brackets either side of the hitch. I understand Pete 79 has not had trouble with his drawbar although this trailer is 300 mm longer. Maybe it does need an A frame but I dont envisage a lot of hard rough off road work (after falling a couple of metres off a ladder today for the first time in my life, I think either I'm a bit too old for the rough stuff or I'm bloody tough). I hope, more just to take to a campground or caravan park. An A-frame limits how close one can park the jimny over the drawbar a useful security feature in a confined space.

It is now registered, took just 2 weeks, at dealer and RMS, had to replace a rear led light. I should have taken the shocks off it for registration because it would have been under 250 kg and under that rego, in NSW is free (I guess we still have to pay stamp duty but it would have saved about $60). It is registered for 750 kgs.

Just added a lid. Frame weighs 25.2 kg out of 40 mm x 1.6 mm RSHS and a couple of 25 mm x 1.6 mm RSHS welded together.



Sheet is 2mm Aluminium treadplate, glued with Sika 252 and screwed and 10 mm has been rounded over the edge to follow the curve of the RHS. Rack is 1200 x 900 and weights 13.4 kg. Just working out hinges, catches, ram length and pinchweld for the top, a bit of weather proofing for the front and rear doors and a frame inside for the camping gear. Spare wheel will go on the rack. (Probably need to weld up a new back after the fall). PG

[pete_79]

Lid looks really neat mate.
I like it.

I think you’re doing everything right as far as keeping it lite and with those strongbacks under the stress points in the draw bar I would say you’ll be all sweet...


If it helps put your mind at ease, I just got home from a weekend camping trip up the beach with my trailer.

Towed it with the Triton and went up right on the high tide, had to bounce along on the soft stuff up the top of the beach.
I had both batteries and the usually gear in the trailer, all the jerry cans on the front of the trailer full of water and the basket on the lid was pretty overloaded.

It bounced pretty hard more then a few times while trying to keep up momentum in the soft and rutted sand. No signs of any bending....

[gardnep]

Camerons Corner New South Wales 14/09/2020 where New South Wales, Queensland and South Australian borders meet. Travel restrictions mean I could not enjoy the company of the other states.

Trailer travelled better than the standard spec 2010 zook over very heavy corrugations in STURT national park. I need a suspension upgrade as there's not much left after hammering the 280 km round trip to Tibooburra. Three hundred watt solar panel provides power to the Waeco fridge via 135 AH AGM dual battery with Voltage sensing relay assisting. Shook a few connections loose and lost the magnet for the cruise control somewhere in the red dust but we survived. Total weight of loaded trailer was 550 kgs with all the gear, water and 20 L fuel on top. Scenery out in the red sand hills was breathtaking.
Trailer did not break with my dodgy welding. Now to convert it to a camping trailer and learn to carry a lot less stuff.