[Bennyzarb]

Are you able to run half doors on the road in nsw for my 92 tin top

[suzi-fan-22]

this might help

[appsie]

i do at times.have been pulled up for rbts and what not n told they were cool so that means YES

lol i dont know really but i havent had dramas

[303zuke]

What would be the benefit of having half doors on a hardtop?

[SierraDan]

Same as a soft top. To have a better view outside the car?

[Gwagensteve]

And more interior room of the door internals are gutted - 3" more knee room.

I can store heaps of stuff inside my 1/2 doors.

Steve.

[zooky08]

I would think they will be okay as long as you still have the mirror attached

[shneva]

hi i think as long as you have the intrution bar still in the door you will be fine.

[Fatzook]

shneva wrote:

hi i think as long as you have the intrution bar still in the door you will be fine.

Leafy sierras don't have intrusion bars.

[Gwagensteve]

Had a chance to snap some pics of a couple of different 1/2 doors in the shed.

Mine:



This is inside. I'm sure you can imagine what the outside looks like.

that's 1" steam pipe as an intrusion bar. It's quite effective:



Here's how I did the latch - the square bar is the opener. It's easy to get to but impossible to accidently knock.






and here are CJ's. They were designed to work with stock Drover plastic door tops, hence the step back up at the rear of the door.





They use the stock door handle, remounted.

Either way, with the inside gutted like this, the car feels heaps roomier inside and the bottom of the door forms a neat pocket. I have an army pack bag and 2L soft canteen that sits in the driver's side door.



Steve.

[foolsp33d]

to add a couple of more pics to yet another door thread....

Drover half doors(same upright size as standard doors, minus the window support frame)






and some slightly modded standard doors, attacked with the grinder and shot with some speed holes

[shakes]

Mine, using stock latch trimmed down and a pin in the top for release. (hence the slight rise in the back 80mm)

1.6mm sheet rolled on the other side for strength and no nasty edges. The top is just above my thighs when my bucket is in the car...stock mirrors re-located. No bog

[Blkfxx]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Here's how I did the latch - the square bar is the opener. It's easy to get to but impossible to accidently knock.

Hey Steve,

Did you cut down the latch at all? If yes, How so?

I'm about to cut some doors I've got here and plan to follow similar lines to yours.

[Gwagensteve]

A bit was cut off the top, the locking mechanism was gutted (but not the latch, it operates as per normal) and t he little bit of bar stock was welded to what was left of the tag the handle pulled on.

I'm a bit vague with the details as it was some time ago. When you cut the inside out the door it's easy enough to remove the latch and work out what can be stripped.

Steve.

[Blkfxx]

Plan of attack


Looking on the inside you can see where I plan to cut, The latch and other bits are JUST too high.


Cutting! Green line or Red line?
Green is looking like it will still be in the way, Red line will definitely clear but that means one less bolt holding the latch on.



After pulling the whole lot out and playing around with everything, It looks like this is the bit to attach a 'handle' to.

[Gwagensteve]

Thanks for the photos. I cut around the red line- I think I went straight through the middle of the bolt hole.

Yes I reckon you're right with the bit to weld the handle to

Steve.

[31zook]

Did this for a member on here. He wanted mirrors and a latch For a roady sierra. Different but works.

[joel]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Had a chance to snap some pics of a couple of different 1/2 doors in the shed.

Mine:


Steve.

what.. no speed holes??
disappointed steve.

[Blkfxx]

Here's the latch cut down and removed of the unnecessary crap

[shakes]

If you have the skill's patience the handle can be cut/welded in underneath the latch and still work perfectly.

I dislike full height at the front of the too, I much prefer to follow the height the bonnet comes through at. But it also means relocating the mirror lower. Mirrors off a 1ltr work well - and use the angle of the bracket for the angle of the cut down to again keep all your lines parallel. (which coincedently is the same angle the top of your dash falls away at)

[Blkfxx]

Here's what I came up with for the handle, I was originally going to do as Gwagen did on his doors, But played around with the stock handle to see if i could make it work.



Side on. It's in the right spot that I can open with my left or right hand and easily open it from the outside by reaching in.



Just cut the stock rod and re-bent it, Drilled the opening latch bit to put the rod in.

[Gwagensteve]

Nice.

[suzukikid]

I ha cut down 2 doors... Got is all working cut down the latch... I have left the inside of the door on though as I won't use it for stargaze because I hate things ratleing around! Haha

What would you guys recommend me to get for the tops? Is 2mm steel too much to weld to the stock tin can Zook material?

[Blkfxx]

The RHS I used was 2mm, It was a pain in the arse to weld the panels to.

[suzukikid]

I can't really use rhs because the angles are all different! Ill wacka pic up

[Joshyboy26]

I have welded 1mm and 3mm onto zook panels with good results so it can be done!

[SierraDan]

You weld to the thicker stuff and invite the thinner stuff to the party.

These are 2mm top plates dimpled and a bit of 3" exhaust pipe for a cup holder.

[suzukikid]

That's exactly how I have cut mine! Cheers mate! I like the cup holder too!!!!

[SierraDan]

Its not a tight fit on a stubbie cooler, but its what we had lying around in the rush up to TT. Theres about an hour in making that door. They're off my Blue Sierra too haha

[Blkfxx]

SierraDan wrote:

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb4 ... d1ab21.jpg

suzukikid wrote:

That's exactly how I have cut mine! Cheers mate! I like the cup holder too!!!!

Mine are cut exactly the same as that too, Had no worries using RHS.

Blkfxx wrote: