[zooky08]

I'm only a hr from lcmp. But a far drive to the rest if the parks.
I'm thinking coil overs front and airshocks rear?

[bigrig91]

appsie wrote:

profender coilovers,or even fox coilovers with cheaper coils,profender bumps are all fairly cheap and the way i should of went

Appsie do you know of anyone using these profender bumpstops. i looked into them for my patrol a while ago and seemed legit, now looking at them for the vitara. The profender coilovers for the money i think are really good value.

It would be cool to be able to build it for fast comps with a sway bar in and decent handling and then disconnect sway bar and it stretches like a monster. There is bound to be a big compromise on one of those fronts though haha.

Gearing is totally different for each comp i guess.

[appsie]

running a anti roc swaybar you will still use a full 16" shock and 18 even.doesnt seem to do anything but help the car

someone i was driving with had the profenders but i forget who now,but they seemed happy with them.at the end of the day its only a bump and if setup right should be ok but you do see a fair few blown out and with leaks early on in some rigs

[got_bar_work]

J20 to auto to vit box to 6.5 in sierra case would be the go
Put the vit box in low for high speed events then sierra box in low for crawling
Both in low to show off
Air shocks seem to work on slow buggy but not so well on fast heavy cars
I would go coil overs
Every one ive seen with air shocks spend a hell of a lot of time tuning there shocks

[appsie]

coilovers arent just gonna bolt in and work either without playing with shim packs,nitro levels but most importantly coil rates if you want it to be perfect.

but i know if i built mine on coils it would have been driven and enjoyed alot more than it has so far. i hate air shocks lol

[got_bar_work]

Shouldnt u be able to prety much drive the thing round on the bumpstop before u order ur coilovers
Get them from some one that knows offroad racing
Take the rig in sit on four scales and the should get pretty close first go

[appsie]

yes u can do that. and order top n bottom coils to suit the weights u have

[bazooked]

don't forget foa, they make a very decent coil over for the price and bumps aswell.

[want33s]

got_bar_work wrote:

Take the rig in sit on four scales and the should get pretty close first go

Doesn't work like that.... You need to know the sprung weight not combined sprung and unsprung.

[appsie]

could use a load cell at each corner to get the right weight of it sprung

bazooked,have you had experience with foa??? have heard people say its rubbish but never known any of them to own it

[zooky08]

I'm going to do alot of research on air shocks and coil overs.
All this sprung talk is confusing me

[bazooked]

appsie wrote:

could use a load cell at each corner to get the right weight of it sprung

bazooked,have you had experience with foa??? have heard people say its rubbish but never known any of them to own it

they used to be crap and leave swarf in there shox from manufacturing, they have since turned over a new leaf, saying that that was prob a few years ago, a lot of the budget koh rigs are running foa with good results, as for weights, you can hire corner scales to work out the weights, eibach have the best spring rate calculator around to do the numbers, and i would highly recommend there springs for coil overs as they seem to last the longest.

[SierraDan]

Diffs, wheels tyres are not sprung.

Everything above it is sprung weight.

[zooky08]

SierraDan wrote:

Diffs, wheels tyres are not sprung.

Everything above it is sprung weight.

i had a feeling it was the weight of the car it self, so i need to find out the weight of all 4 corners, to get the right spring rate for coil overs?
what about air shocks, i assume you need to no the weight for them as well.

[want33s]

Air shocks and link arms are half sprung, half unsprung weight.

[appsie]

fox shcks with eibach coils seems to be the most popular setup.heaps cheaper in the coils but as you said they seem to say they last.

you would have to basically get a reading with a load cell at each corner,lowering the car down onto a cell wedged between say the diff and chassis????

[zooky08]

well im about to begin the build. trying to decide on the tube to use. is 1 1/2 2.6mm wall tube strong enough for a tube rear or should i go 1 3/4 by 2.6mm wall.
also picked up another 4.8 complete front diff for free so going rear steer as well and bought some tyres.

[SierraDan]

If youre using two dies/tube sizes.

Go 13/4 for the B and A hoops and bracing for that and the backstays. do rest in the 11/2.

I'm personally using 13/4 for everything.

[zooky08]

yea was following rules for a and b pillars, cross bracing etc but doesn't have anything about tube chassis.
i would like to use 1 3/4 but if 1 1/2 tube will hold up i will use that as its a bit cheaper.

[Fatzook]

use 1.75". Most motorsports use this as a standard.

[SierraDan]

they say min 1.5" for everything else. but its easier to just use 1.75" for everything.

[zooky08]

okay cheers guys

[bazooked]

don't forget 2 dies is join to cost you a crapload swell, 1 3/4 all the way

[zooky08]

Already have one. Was stupid for me to buy the 1.5" die first.

[SierraDan]

Agreed.