[klutched]

I just had a proper look before and where I said it plugs too already has a hose on it

Built4thrashing wrote:

On the side of the airbox (firewall side) there is a square bit that sticks out. I think that hose you showed plugs into the bottom of that.

I'll go have a look now.

[atari4x4]

have a suss of the FSM that you downloaded, that will tell you if it's supposed to be connected to anything

[fordem]

klutched wrote:

The bottom hose goes to the air pump for the front diff.

Which bottom hose?

The front diff air system does not interconnect with the vapor recovery system.

[klutched]

Did 70kms on the odo and was 74kms on the gps tonight. Used about a third of a tank so far and done 135 REAL kms. I also got some lucas fuel system cleaner today. I put 200mls in today. Ill put it in every time i fill up till its used. Should get around 4-5tanks from it.

[atari4x4]

klutched wrote:

I was thinking that because when i drive and take my foot off the accelerator i can feel it slow down dramatically. Dunno if thats normal with bigger tyres on though?

did this start happening directly after the bodylift went it?

you might find that you handbrake is dragging a bit due to the extra tension on the cables, did you ever adjust the handbrake after the BL.

[atari4x4]

and then...


















you pulled the error codes & posted them up.

[truongski]

MacDaddy wrote:

Does it take longer to start from cold ?

Sorry for the thread hijack.

How does this affect fuel economy? Mine has been doing this lately... But only since I changed plugs?

My fuel economy isn't too bad. I get an average of 12.5L/100km. (V6, auto, 225/75, roof racks)

[MacDaddy]

truongski wrote:

MacDaddy wrote:

Does it take longer to start from cold ?

Sorry for the thread hijack.

How does this affect fuel economy? Mine has been doing this lately... But only since I changed plugs?

My fuel economy isn't too bad. I get an average of 12.5L/100km. (V6, auto, 225/75, roof racks)

Stupid question, but did you gap the plugs correctly, and did you tighten them all up properly ?
Normally when this happens, it could be dirty or partially blocked injectors, the V6 normally starts within a few secs, but i have had mine take up to 5secs or longer to start, some regular fuel system cleaner stopped this problem for me... if you use standard unleaded, it will clog up the injectors more then premium unleaded, as they put alot more sulphur in standard, so i would advise using premium, if you dont already...

[truongski]

MacDaddy wrote:

Stupid question, but did you gap the plugs correctly, and did you tighten them all up properly ?
Normally when this happens, it could be dirty or partially blocked injectors, the V6 normally starts within a few secs, but i have had mine take up to 5secs or longer to start, some regular fuel system cleaner stopped this problem for me... if you use standard unleaded, it will clog up the injectors more then premium unleaded, as they put alot more sulphur in standard, so i would advise using premium, if you dont already...

I didn't really check the gaps of all the plugs. Just the first one I pulled out of the box. The fuel tank gets a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every now and then and I always run premium.

To be honest, I'm not too worried. It always starts fine after a longer crank.

[MacDaddy]

truongski wrote:

MacDaddy wrote:

Stupid question, but did you gap the plugs correctly, and did you tighten them all up properly ?
Normally when this happens, it could be dirty or partially blocked injectors, the V6 normally starts within a few secs, but i have had mine take up to 5secs or longer to start, some regular fuel system cleaner stopped this problem for me... if you use standard unleaded, it will clog up the injectors more then premium unleaded, as they put alot more sulphur in standard, so i would advise using premium, if you dont already...

I didn't really check the gaps of all the plugs. Just the first one I pulled out of the box. The fuel tank gets a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every now and then and I always run premium.

To be honest, I'm not too worried. It always starts fine after a longer crank.

Well there's your problem, spark plugs do not come set, you have to set all the gaps yourself, so, time to pull them all out and set the gaps...
Ah ok, yeah i add fuel cleaner every third tank refill... good, the zook engines really love a better and cleaner fuel...

[truongski]

MacDaddy wrote:

Well there's your problem, spark plugs do not come set, you have to set all the gaps yourself, so, time to pull them all out and set the gaps...

Interesting... this is only the first time I've noticed it takes a little longer to start from cold. Once the engine is hot, it's fine.

I've changed a few plugs in my time and I've never set the gaps.

Would a dodgy coil pack cause this issue as well?

I might pull them out and have a look anyway.

Cheers

[MacDaddy]

truongski wrote:

MacDaddy wrote:

Well there's your problem, spark plugs do not come set, you have to set all the gaps yourself, so, time to pull them all out and set the gaps...

Interesting... this is only the first time I've noticed it takes a little longer to start from cold. Once the engine is hot, it's fine.

I've changed a few plugs in my time and I've never set the gaps.

Would a dodgy coil pack cause this issue as well?

I might pull them out and have a look anyway.

Cheers

Jeez, really, wow, cant believe you have never set the spark gap, didnt anyone ever tell you the gap needs to be set ?... the gap in the pack, is usually way to big, and i have had to set the gap, with every plugs i have bought...
In my experience, i have found that the coil pack will either work, or it wont, they usually just die suddenly... a spark gap that is to big, will make your coil packs run hotter, and shorten the life of the coil pack... definitely pull the plugs and set the gap, your coil packs sound ok...

[atari4x4]

from the FSM

Quote:

Spark plug: 1.0 – 1.1 mm (0.039 – 0.043 in.)
Spark plug type:
DENSO K20PR-U11/SK16PR11
NGK BKR6E-11/*IFR5J11
NOTE:
Under –25
C (–13
F), the spark plugs with an asterisk (*) are
highly recommend for better engine starting performance

[truongski]

atari4x4 wrote:

from the FSM

Quote:

Spark plug: 1.0 – 1.1 mm (0.039 – 0.043 in.)
Spark plug type:
DENSO K20PR-U11/SK16PR11
NGK BKR6E-11/*IFR5J11
NOTE:
Under –25
C (–13
F), the spark plugs with an asterisk (*) are
highly recommend for better engine starting performance

I get the NGK ones as noted above. Surely the plugs would come with correctly gapped...

Surely.....

[atari4x4]

NGK BKR6E-11

pretty sure the 11 in that code is the plug gap, i know the 6 is the heat range. it still doesn't hurt to chuck a feeler gauge on them.

[MacDaddy]

truongski wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

from the FSM

Quote:

Spark plug: 1.0 – 1.1 mm (0.039 – 0.043 in.)
Spark plug type:
DENSO K20PR-U11/SK16PR11
NGK BKR6E-11/*IFR5J11
NOTE:
Under –25
C (–13
F), the spark plugs with an asterisk (*) are
highly recommend for better engine starting performance

I get the NGK ones as noted above. Surely the plugs would come with correctly gapped...

Surely.....

They are made to fit a variety of cars, with different gaps, they dont just gap them for one make and model of car... you have to gap them, to get them gaped correctly, for your specific car...

[atari4x4]

[truongski]

I completely understand where you're coming from Mac....but I was under the same assumption as Atari (11 in model number, specified plug gap). But I guess it's not too hard to check with feeler gauges before you install them.

[atari4x4]

unless the box has been dropped, you'd have to be unlucky to find one that's out.

[MacDaddy]

truongski wrote:

I completely understand where you're coming from Mac....but I was under the same assumption as Atari (11 in model number, specified plug gap). But I guess it's not too hard to check with feeler gauges before you install them.

Yes, its good practice to always check the gap... and not trust them to be correct...

atari4x4 wrote:

unless the box has been dropped, you'd have to be unlucky to find one that's out.

They get dropped and kicked around by all the delivery people and shop owners... I have changed the plugs on every car i have owned, and i have never found a set of new plugs, to be gaped correctly... i always check the gap, and adjust accordingly...

[atari4x4]

You seriously crack me up, first the UFO's & sales hype intrusion bars & now this... you must go through a heap of tin foil making new hats all the time.

Sure the odd one might get dropped but even so to damage the electrode enough to close up the plug gap, you'd clearly know the plug is no good going by the damage on the box and I know for sure I wouldn't take it off the shelf.

Don't you send your GV to suzistore to be serviced, have you even seen a spark plug come out of a packet in the last 10yrs? You've had your GV since early 2010 but you posted this in Ninja's thread August last year asking where they are... works out to be over 2 years & you hadn't touched the plugs.

MacDaddy wrote:

Nice work, at least its progressing... if you happen to put new spark plugs in, can you get some pics, because i have no idea where they are, lol...

MacDaddy wrote:

Anyway, thanks for the pics of where the spark plugs are, they must be pretty recessed into the engine, what length ratchet extension did you use to get to them, and is it a standard plug socket you used ?

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27787&p=648195&hilit=spark+plugs#p648195

For as long as I can remember they call have a cardboard tube to protect the electrode... seeing I cant bloody sleep at the moment I just dug these out of the garage for you, my old NGK plugs back in the new plugs packet as spares.

NGK Packaging.


Comes with this cardboard tube to protect the thread & electrode.


Quite clearly the tube is longer than the electrode end of the plug.


And here is the used plug.

[MacDaddy]

Sticks and stones matey...

One question... do you always put plugs straight out of the packet, into your engine, or do you check them first ?

My preference, and advice to anyone, is to always check the gap, it takes 5secs, and not trust they are correct...

[atari4x4]

nah not all the time, but i do usually check them against each other... how often do you do it?

i don't know about you but a quick look at the gap & i can tell if it's around the 1mm mark, i reckon i could tell the difference between a plug that got "dropped" and gapped say at .8mm compared to one that was 1.1mm. hell i even visually gapped a fresh set of points down at beachport that a guy had fitted to a GQ patrol & was carrying on like a pork chop last year, afterwards it ran like a trooper.

MacDaddy wrote:

They are made to fit a variety of cars, with different gaps, they dont just gap them for one make and model of car... you have to gap them, to get them gaped correctly, for your specific car...

what i'm getting at is they do make them for specific models, GV's take a NGK BKR6E-11 & i'm pretty sure they'd have pretty damn good quality control.

[Chop]

Truongski do you have a high flow cat?

Macdaddy, when i had i my sierra and vitara and i changed plugs i checked and the correct NGK's were already gapped!

[truongski]

Chop wrote:

Truongski do you have a high flow cat?

Macdaddy, when i had i my sierra and vitara and i changed plugs i checked and the correct NGK's were already gapped!

Not to jump on the bandwagon, but I do have a high flow cat? Is that good???


























* For the record, I don't have a high flow cat....

[zukmeista]

This thread is gold, someone who doesn't even service their own car talking about specs on service parts, BTW have you measured the difference between a hi-flo cat and a normal one on a dyno mr maccy?

[atari4x4]

what i do find interesting is the H20a has a plug gap of 0.7-0.8mm & the H25a have a plug gap of 1.0-1.1mm

[MacDaddy]

zukmeista wrote:

This thread is gold, someone who doesn't even service their own car talking about specs on service parts, BTW have you measured the difference between a hi-flo cat and a normal one on a dyno mr maccy?

I presume you are talking about me... honestly, you dont have to believe everything that comes out of atari's mouth, he is a shite stirrer... my GV is the only zook i have owned, that i pay to get serviced, but what doesnt atari doesnt know, is that i supply my own serviceable parts, if i can get them cheaper than the mechanic ( Genuine oil filter i get from mechanic )... while NGK are pretty good coming pre-gaped, i always check the gap, and adjust if needed, i usually find at least one that is out... i always have, and always will, check the spark gap... its just good practice..

[Scrawny]

Not interested in weighing in on the debates here...... just curious to know MacDaddy, how often do you get the plugs replaced? Do you go by the service book?

[atari4x4]

MacDaddy wrote:

zukmeista wrote:

This thread is gold, someone who doesn't even service their own car talking about specs on service parts, BTW have you measured the difference between a hi-flo cat and a normal one on a dyno mr maccy?

I presume you are talking about me... honestly, you dont have to believe everything that comes out of atari's mouth, he is a shite stirrer... my GV is the only zook i have owned, that i pay to get serviced, but what doesnt atari doesnt know, is that i supply my own serviceable parts, if i can get them cheaper than the mechanic ( Genuine oil filter i get from mechanic )... while NGK are pretty good coming pre-gaped, i always check the gap, and adjust if needed, i usually find at least one that is out... i always have, and always will, check the spark gap... its just good practice..

what plugs do you use?