[MacDaddy]

Scrawn wrote:

Not interested in weighing in on the debates here...... just curious to know MacDaddy, how often do you get the plugs replaced? Do you go by the service book?

There is no debate... lol... i am just advocating checking the plug gap before putting them into an engine, but some think its not needed... each to their own...
I get the GV serviced every 3months or 5000kms, whichever occurs first... i like to get the plugs replaced every service, they may not need changing, but at less than $5 a plug, i think its worth it...

atari4x4 wrote:

what plugs do you use?

I use the standard, $5 NGK's ( BKR6E-11 ), they seem to work the best... was thinking of switching to the new NGK Iridium, but at $20 a plug, is it worth it for that extra performance, supposed to be self cleaning too, but, i dont know, depends how long they last, to be cost effective...

Just going back to truongski's question -

truongski wrote:

MacDaddy wrote:

Does it take longer to start from cold ?

Sorry for the thread hijack.

How does this affect fuel economy? Mine has been doing this lately... But only since I changed plugs?

My fuel economy isn't too bad. I get an average of 12.5L/100km. (V6, auto, 225/75, roof racks)

His problem only occurred after changing the plugs, assuming all the electrics and coil packs are still fine, as before, it only leaves the plugs, so maybe, just maybe, the gaping does play a part in this sudden problem...

Anyway lets get back to the OP problem, bad fuel economy, as this is " Suzuki Talk ", not chat, so back on topic...

[Scrawny]

MacDaddy, Iridiums are like Platinums, they'll last 100,000kms+

[Sco-tie]

I've got platinums and can't really tell the difference and no difference in economy. but they do last 100,000km but km for km they cost the same as normal ones so maybe for the fact that there could be one thats faulty it could be pretty bad over 100,000km in that case i guess using 5 times more normal plugs means more labor but you would get on top of the problem a lot quicker then if only changing them every 100,000km....

[atari4x4]

MacDaddy wrote:

Anyway lets get back to the OP problem, bad fuel economy, as this is " Suzuki Talk ", not chat, so back on topic...

+1

But the OP hasn't even bothered to reply to my last couple questions...

atari4x4 wrote:

and then... you pulled the error codes & posted them up.

atari4x4 wrote:

klutched wrote:

I was thinking that because when i drive and take my foot off the accelerator i can feel it slow down dramatically. Dunno if thats normal with bigger tyres on though?

did this start happening directly after the bodylift went it?

you might find that you handbrake is dragging a bit due to the extra tension on the cables, did you ever adjust the handbrake after the BL.

[GeckoXL7]

Suzuki Recommends Platinum or Irridium spark plugs in GV's for service life of 100,000k, i remember only paying around 14 per plug.

I have Pulstar irridium plugs now, a full set cost under $100 delivered form the US and have a lifetime warranty so never have to pay for a plug again, and i can tell you they have been great! They have a capacitor in them which stores energy and provides a much stronger spark, which also means its a cleaner spark, so longer life, and there is quite a fair bit more torque and a bit more power too with them.

Another thing that can affect fuel economy is a dirty Air mass sensor, wont show a error code, but could make the ECU think it needs to pump in more fuel than needed.

If hapend after replacing spark plugs, as Macdaddy said checking spark gap is a good idea, but also making sure there is no crap down the hole so the spark plugs dont seal properly is a good idea too, and Pulstar recommend using dialetric grease on the end of the spark plugs so it has good contact against the coil etc and prevents arching against the ceramic part of the spark plug (wasted energy)

[klutched]

atari4x4 wrote:

MacDaddy wrote:

Anyway lets get back to the OP problem, bad fuel economy, as this is " Suzuki Talk ", not chat, so back on topic...

+1

But the OP hasn't even bothered to reply to my last couple questions...

atari4x4 wrote:

and then... you pulled the error codes & posted them up.

Not sure how to check them without a scanner. Wasn't able to find it in that Word doc.

atari4x4 wrote:

klutched wrote:

I was thinking that because when i drive and take my foot off the accelerator i can feel it slow down dramatically. Dunno if thats normal with bigger tyres on though?

did this start happening directly after the bodylift went it?

you might find that you handbrake is dragging a bit due to the extra tension on the cables, did you ever adjust the handbrake after the BL.

Yeah, just noticing it now. Hand brake it loose as all fuck atm, gotta rip it up a foot to get it to lock... I'll get it tightened when I put her in for a service next week.

Just got 390kms/59L. ODO said 362kms or something. Pretty much add an extra 4.x KMS per 60kms. I put through some LUCAS FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER last tank and this tank. Hopefully it's helping.

[atari4x4]

read the word doc & it will TELL you how to do it FFS.

[klutched]

It has Suzuki scan tool or vehicle with monitor connector only? :/

[atari4x4]

what about the last parts on the first & second pages....

just so people don't need to keep downloading the word doc, i'll try & get a better quality image later.

[klutched]

My check engine light doesn't flash at all. It just stays on.

[atari4x4]

when using the diagnostic port in the engine bay near the airbox, as described above ?

it's on all the time, or does it light up when starting the car & turns off after a couple seconds.

if it's on all the time you've got issues.

[klutched]

Didn't plug anything in or use anything.

It turns off after I start the engine.

[atari4x4]

it's ment to do that.

read the bottom section of the first 2 pages up there ^^^^ a bit where they talk about NOT USING THE SUZUKI SCAN TOOL


i'll spell it out for you....

get a paper clip straighten it out & bend it so it's shaped like a U.

jam it into the 2 holes as indicated on the diagnostic plug in the engine bay buy the air box.

turn the ignition to the ON position (no to start the engine)

the check engine light will flash out the error codes, codes will appear like this:

[FLASH]...... [FLASH FLASH FLASH]......[FLASH]...... [FLASH FLASH FLASH]......[FLASH]...... [FLASH FLASH FLASH]

^^^ that equals error code 13 & each code will be repeated 3 times.

if you can't work it out from there, best you take it somewhere cause i'm fucking done.

[klutched]

Error code 23

[atari4x4]

and what does code 23 point at in that list of codes?

[klutched]

IAT Sensor?

[atari4x4]

YAY

IAT = Intake Air Sensor.

it's the little sensor that plugs into the side of the airbox, check to see if its plugged in to the loom & into the airbox especially since you've recently done a body lift.

[klutched]

Yeah it's all on properly :/

[atari4x4]

disconnet the battery for a few minutes to clear the codes from the ecu & reconnect it (will have to reset your radio stations)

drive it for a week and pull the codes again & see if it's still doing it.

that code has been stored since you last had the battery disconnected. so i'm guessing probably around the engine/bodylift time was the last time it had been cleared. do you remember if you left that IAT sensor out/unhooked back when you were doing that work & took it for a spin?

[jdk81]

On the balenos 23 can be a faulty IAT or open circuit on IAT
EDIT: Yes same as balenos, 23 is low voltage or open circuit. Check the connection first and foremost.
An earth come apart somewhere, or stretched an earth etc?

i'd try swapping the IAT with a known good one first
If the IAT isnt faulty, check wiring loom to see where the earth is for the IAT and see if you can find that earth point.

[GeckoXL7]

Do as Atari says first as engine light doesnt stay on.

If doesnt go away, Disconect the plug on it, spray some electrical contact cleaner available at supercheap or repco on the contacts to give it a good clean, let it dry and plug it back in, all the IAT is is a Thermister, eg resistance changes with temperature, can test it with a multimeter if have one.

I dont think its something that will make a engine light stay on with engine running if kinda working, but will cause economy issues.

Could just be dirty plug contacts, Be glad its not your MAS

[klutched]

Nah it doesn't make the engine light stay on. But when it's unplugged and I start the car the engine light stays on. Happened last week when I checked my air filter.

[GeckoXL7]

yeah sounds like stored code as atari said or dirty plug, i even get the code stored if the sensor slightly comes out the airbox which happens a fair bit.

[klutched]

Ok just filled up, I got 13L/100kms I got the car serviced on thursday and it runs heaps better. I checked the codes again and it's gone