[hooki]

Highway-Star wrote:

hooki wrote:

how hard would it be fitting a sierra master cylinder and booster? Would the booster clear everything on the firewall?

I haven't had a chance to give this a proper look yet. I know it has been done to an LJ or 2 before though.

First thing thats an issue (In an LJ80, or 50-2 or 3 only) is the battery tray. This will have to go, and either a significantly smaller battery (probably a gel cell or similar) or battery relocation is required (I'll mount mine under the tray in the back in my 81). I "Think" the clutch cable location looked OK?

I'm fairly sure the firewall will need modifying. I'm not sure how extensive and hard/easy that will be.

I doubt length will be an issue with an F motor fitted (or a LJ50 motor for that matter) in the standard location. But I will be looking at a larger motor sitting further back in the engine bay, so Vitara master cylinder has got my attention due to how short they are.

Also for an F motor a vacuum point will have to be fitted to the manifold. I don't think this should be too big an issue. For an LJ50, a vacuum pump will need to be fitted; probably easiest to use an alternator off a Diesel engine with a vacuum pump already fitted.


If you get to it before I do, please feel free to add to this thread

I may try and get my hands on a sierra master/booster and see what needs to be modified.

How do you're brakes feel with your current setup running the factory LJ80 master cylinder?

[rick1970]

Still in the process of collecting bits for my LJ50 before i make a start on it, ie need to free up some shed space first thats currantly taken up by other shit .

Will get LJ80 diffs with discs (have the NT Serria diffs, brakes and steering from the WT conv in the LWB Sierra). Still undecided whether to keep it 2 stroke or go F10a.

Question is, what are you LJ guys doing with the steering box? Stay with the origional setup or change to a Serria (or similar) setup? Any advantage of ditching the relay setup?

Origional box seems ok, relay is a bit ordinary.

[Highway-Star]

hooki wrote:

How do you're brakes feel with your current setup running the factory LJ80 master cylinder?

It feels good (not great, not crap, just "good"). Note: I'm running 31" tyres.
Compared to standard with the front drums, its a whole world better! Though if I jump straight from the LJ into the Sierra, I usually hurt myself first time I brake! . The boosted brakes in the Sierra just come on that much quicker. I can still lock the LJ up, but it takes a hell of allot of effort!

My front rotors could possibly do with a machine or replacing though, I have some good looking rotors in the shed which I will swap on when I get time, and see if its a bit better.

rick1970 wrote:

Question is, what are you LJ guys doing with the steering box? Stay with the origional setup or change to a Serria (or similar) setup? Any advantage of ditching the relay setup?

Origional box seems ok, relay is a bit ordinary.

I run totally original in my 80. My 81 will have the NT Sierra arms as mentioned in my first post, and a power steer box of some description up the front. I am not a fan of the factory steering arrangement, though the steering in my 80, is not a very good example to judge on. I've recently sat in an original LJ50 which has steering that feels as responsive as my power steered Sierra, but its a brilliant example of a car!

[303zuke]

The only reason to even consider replacing the LJ relay steering is if the bush in the relay arm is worn beyond repair and you simply cannot find a replacement. The LJ50 and 80 bushes are no longer available, but the LJ80-II (Stockman) type still are. The relay system is a good set-up when tight.

I would definately replace the LJ "Y" link arms with a Sierra track rod and link as described above to eliminate bump steer.

[tanshi]

303zuke wrote:

The only reason to even consider replacing the LJ relay steering is if the bush in the relay arm is worn beyond repair and you simply cannot find a replacement. The LJ50 and 80 bushes are no longer available, but the LJ80-II (Stockman) type still are. The relay system is a good set-up when tight.

I would definately replace the LJ "Y" link arms with a Sierra track rod and link as described above to eliminate bump steer.

My relay arm has bearing pressed in to replace the bushes, so this is another option

[rick1970]

303zuke wrote:

The only reason to even consider replacing the LJ relay steering is if the bush in the relay arm is worn beyond repair and you simply cannot find a replacement. The LJ50 and 80 bushes are no longer available, but the LJ80-II (Stockman) type still are. The relay system is a good set-up when tight.

I would definately replace the LJ "Y" link arms with a Sierra track rod and link as described above to eliminate bump steer.

Cheers, i should be able to come up with a repair for the origional relay.

[hooki]

hey Highway-star,

i just finished doing the front disc conversion and this write up was a huge help, cheers . Just wondering about the rear conversion.....

I'v got some complete sj50 rear drums ready to go, I'm just wondering how you ended up running the brake lines to the wheel cylinders?

- As the factory lj80 rear brake line runs to the diff -> to the right wheel cylinder -> then to the left wheel cylinder which has the bleed nipple on it.

- As opposed to the sj50 setup where both cylinders have individual lines and bleed nipples.

[Highway-Star]

hooki wrote:

hey Highway-star,

i just finished doing the front disc conversion and this write up was a huge help, cheers . Just wondering about the rear conversion.....

I'v got some complete sj50 rear drums ready to go, I'm just wondering how you ended up running the brake lines to the wheel cylinders?

- As the factory lj80 rear brake line runs to the diff -> to the right wheel cylinder -> then to the left wheel cylinder which has the bleed nipple on it.

- As opposed to the sj50 setup where both cylinders have individual lines and bleed nipples.

No worries, glad to be helpful instead of annoying people for once

I just hooked the brake lines up as per LJ80, which I am yet to see a Sierra that was different anyway . Well Its also the same as my WT and many 1L diffs I have stripped... Also come to think of it, the SJ50 wheel cylinders I had and bought new replecements of, had 1 bleed nipple on the passenger side only.

As a bit of a side note on the rear drums. Since doing this conversion to my dust collecting diffs , I have managed to score myself a pair of rear drums which I believe were off a Type 3 SJ410. They fit straight onto stockman housings (ie no hole cutting required), and have self adjusters!!! They are still smaller than SJ413 drums, but I will probably put these on my LJ80 when the stockman shoes wear out

[hooki]

Highway-Star wrote:

hooki wrote:

hey Highway-star,

i just finished doing the front disc conversion and this write up was a huge help, cheers . Just wondering about the rear conversion.....

I'v got some complete sj50 rear drums ready to go, I'm just wondering how you ended up running the brake lines to the wheel cylinders?

- As the factory lj80 rear brake line runs to the diff -> to the right wheel cylinder -> then to the left wheel cylinder which has the bleed nipple on it.

- As opposed to the sj50 setup where both cylinders have individual lines and bleed nipples.

No worries, glad to be helpful instead of annoying people for once

I just hooked the brake lines up as per LJ80, which I am yet to see a Sierra that was different anyway . Well Its also the same as my WT and many 1L diffs I have stripped... Also come to think of it, the SJ50 wheel cylinders I had and bought new replecements of, had 1 bleed nipple on the passenger side only.

As a bit of a side note on the rear drums. Since doing this conversion to my dust collecting diffs , I have managed to score myself a pair of rear drums which I believe were off a Type 3 SJ410. They fit straight onto stockman housings (ie no hole cutting required), and have self adjusters!!! They are still smaller than SJ413 drums, but I will probably put these on my LJ80 when the stockman shoes wear out

haha ok no wonder i was confussed, i think i was sold 2 passenger side drums, and not having a sierra anymore to compare to didn't help . The wheel cylinders look a bit tired anyway so i'll grab some new ones and that should sort out my problem

cheers.

[hooki]

I just had a look at my original LJ80 brake master cylinder and it looks pretty stuffed . What do you guys think about a Maruti sierra MG410 master cylinder as a replacement/upgrade??

From what I'am told the Maruti lwb utes came with disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear with non boosted brakes.

[hooki]

I wonder if it will bolt up with no modification...it looks the same . http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=866

[2stroker]

I just did one today, and was sitting reading this afterwards, there is no mention of the master cylinder, don't forget when doing the disc brake conversion on your LJ's to remove the spring and rubber line pressure dampener from the front circuit of your master cyl or your brakes will not release immediately and will drag and wear prematurely. Drum brake master cylinders have this dampener in each circuit behind where the line screws into the master cylinder, disc brake circuits do not have them.

[hooki]

i think this should be moved to the 'Good tech' section

[lemonsmiff]

I got some parts today to do these upgrades.. The model was an sj40b, haven't seen any reference to this model anywhere! Will the cvs fit my lj80 axle? The master cylinder fits with no modification to firewall and rod is same length!

[jamiec]

Hi i am just doing the disk brake swap on the front of my LJ80 and would some one please tell me what flexible brake hoses i need to use? so i can order them.

Thanks for any help with this

Cheers jamie

[303zuke]

You can get away with the standard Sierra front brake hoses that came with the calipers if you don't have massive amounts of front spring lift, or if you do Sierra extended brake lines will do the job.

[jamiec]

One hose is broken off at the banjo bolt at the caliper the other hose is pulled tight with the wheels straight and car level.Do all Sierra model's use the same front hoses? Maybe i would be best to order the extended Sierra hoses just to make sure it will all work out?I think the car sits 1-2 inch higher then standed.

Cheers jamie

[hooki]

you need a brake line with the sierra bango fitting at one end and then the LJ threaded bolt/nut fitting at the other end so it fits the factory mount on the chassis. I just took both lines into the hose shop and got them to make a line with both fittings and had it extended 2 or 3 inches.

[lemonsmiff]

Completed all these conversions using this write up! finished disc brakes and steering today.. All with no mechanical knowledge whatsoever, before starting this project I'd never even changed a wheel! Thanks for the info and the inspiration guys!

[juggster]

Hi Guys


I am about to undertake this modification, i managed to get the a set of Maruti Gypsy (Suzuki sj410) front and rear axels, so i have the complete front swivel assembly with disc brakes and freewheeling hubs, and the rear self adjusting drums. i also have the diffs, which i plan to change, as 90% of my driving is softroading, so i can benefit from the higher ratios for the road driving

my question is with regards to the master cylinder, i saw that it is mentioned we can leave the standard cylinder in, however we must remove the the spring and rubber line pressure dampener from the front circuit of your master cylinder... does anyone have any notes/guide on this?


thanks!

[UBZ]

Just undo the brake line from the master and have a look . It's pretty self explanatory .
From memory you undo brake line . Remove the metal cap that is screwed into the alloy master and the Spring /valve is behind it . Remove them and replace the cap and brake line .

[juggster]

ah, so it is that simple then great!

So that is all i need to modify on the master cylinder then to take the front discs and rear drums then...

thanks for your quick help

[juggster]

thanks for your quick reply

did not know it was that simple. hopefully i will get round to this upgrade soon, just collecting all the parts, and cleaning them up