92 wt G13ba 1.3l carb sierra

Engine Oil: Usually 10w40 full synthetic (usually nulon) 5000kms
- being trying out Gulf Western mineral 20w50 every 2500kms as i am earning less this last 6 months
Coolant: Tap Water (flush with every oil change, sometimes sooner)
Fuel: Usually 'United 95 e10' 'Vortex 95' 'Vortex 98'

mate, i hope ur joking?? tap water will corrode ur block and really isnt good. water boils at 100c, coolant boils at more 110c(i think) but boiling point increase with pressure, there are chemicals in the water that shouldnt run in the engine. unless this car doesnt get driven much?? what color is the water when its drained? if its brown/yellow/orange, its prob corroding.

How do i do that? Is it a nob that gets turned on the dizzy or the complete dizzy itself that gets turned?

mate, i hope ur joking?? tap water will corrode ur block and really isnt good. water boils at 100c, coolant boils at more 110c(i think) but boiling point increase with pressure, there are chemicals in the water that shouldnt run in the engine. unless this car doesnt get driven much?? what color is the water when its drained? if its brown/yellow/orange, its prob corroding.

If you don't know its probably best you leave it while it is still driving fine

Teachh mee! Hahah

J20a owners what oil do you use?

Book says 10w30 some suzuki sites say 15w40
from what I know it makes a big difference with these engines?

10W40 Castrol Magnetec up here in Sydney. When I lived in Melbourne I used Castrol 5W30 which it seemed to like.

Never use 15W40 as it's too thick. The dealer used this grade at the only time I've had it serviced by a dealer and it rattled like crazy.

What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

No i'm not joking and i have done plenty of things to labour the engine enough to test its limit. If your system is running as its should plain water without radiator fluid shouldn't be an issue. Pure water absorbs and dumps heat faster than radiator mixed solution, and as mentioned earlier its boiling point is raised under pressure. A lot of people think that adding more concentrate improves cooling. it hampers it. To me the only benifit is if you live in places where the temp drops low enough to freeze in your system.


graham bell in his four stroke tuning book recommends plain water too

I have never met anyone who actually went to the effort of using demineralised water. It isn't really that expensive though so if it makes you sleep better get it.

The water is a little murky when i flush it. It was a 12 year old car when i got it, that could possibly be a fair bit of hardened scum build up, a oil leak in the system or mild corrosion.
If it is i don't think the corrosion is a devistating fast thing, just something to be mindful of as eventually (many years)it will be an issue. Chances are you probably need a new engine by then due to other unrelated matters.
What i might do is look into a enviromentally friendly rust inhibitor i can add to the water, to me flushing it frequently is much better than buying some expensive coolant and it sitting in the engine for years.

I only run de-mineralised water in my cooling system... if you're ever in SA I'd like to say G'day so you can cross that one off your list.

It's called coolant and for $8 for a bottle of concentrate its hardly expensive. I drop mine fairly often but always put coolant straight back in.

i never bother with coolant however i always use corrosion inhibitor