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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:17 am 
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:helloo: Guys,


I'm only a couple weeks away, from swapping my front diff over,(bent housing to the BARE straight housing). So that means, putting all old axles, hubs, brakes, diff center etc.....into the new housing. This is a very unknown area for me and i would like some guidance, from people that actually know what they are doing. :helloo:

Ok the strip down, this is the info i have so far:

1.Drain the oil :roll:

2.Undo and remove the calliper

3.undo the king pins

4.undo the scraper seals

5.Then the whole assembly should slide out?

6. Take the diff center out?

NFI if that's is in the right order, or weather or not i have missed any thing?

Is there any thing special, i need to do with the strip down? Mark any thing, so it all lines back up?

Putting it back together!! I can pull things apart with easy, but putting back together is where, i get stuck. :lol:

1.Put the diff center back in.

2.??? :roll:


Do i need any special tools?

I know that i will need, new grease for the cv's, diff oil and a axle seal kit.

I appreciate any help you can give!!!


Cheers,

Andrew

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:33 am 
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you will need to remove the outer c clip from the axel, not sure what the jimnys look like but just take the outer cover off the free wheeling hub and it should be in there.
then you can remove the swivel hub as one thing then the axels.

aslo depending how bent the diff is you might need a slide hammer to pull the axels out.

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:46 am 
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yeah you will need to pull the locking hubs off to remove the c-clip like 93zook said.

would it be easier to pull the diff out of the housing after removing the whole diff from the car?

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:57 am 
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Perhaps get a Sierra (or anything really) diff to practice on if you've got some spare time?

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:01 am 
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sideways wrote:
Perhaps get a Sierra (or anything really) diff to practice on if you've got some spare time?


There are some minor differences between the two.

Monkey, If you aren't sure, take photos as you pull things appart. That way you have some reference incase you can't remember what order it goes back in :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
sideways wrote:
Perhaps get a Sierra (or anything really) diff to practice on if you've got some spare time?


There are some minor differences between the two.


I know, I mean just to get your head around rebuilding diffs in general.

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 12:38 pm 
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Cheers guys, keep the info coming.

Side ways: I have no time, for that, as i need to do it before the 'big trip'.

I will take lots of pics, and write what i did down, step by step, so i don't mess any thing up :fingercrossed: i don;t fuck it up :lol: .

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:54 am 
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What is the sort of grease i use for the cv's and what oil for the diff? I think i read a while ago, the lithium grease was the go for cv's?

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:14 am 
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molly grease for the cv's :wink: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... escription

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:32 am 
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http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/Castrol ... efault.asp

CASTROL EPX 80W/90
Capacity: 1.1 Litres.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:23 am 
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I'm replacing mine for the second time tomorrow!

1. Put car up on stands
2. Drain front diff oil
3. Remove wheels and brake calipers.
4. Mark kingpins with paint texta so you know which one goes where and in what orientation! Very important they go back the same way!
5. remove the vac hub and the c clip inside it.
6. remove scraper seals
7. remove kingpin bearings
8. remove swivel hub then pull axle out
9. remove diff centre
10. scrap and clean off the gasket goo on the diff centre mounts
11. reverse procedure to replace!


Some tips!!
it is a whole metric f*ck load easier if the whole front diff assembly is removed first, its only the panhard and shocks holding it on once the cailpers are removed.

The diff centre is pretty heavy and awkward to get back in place by yourself, friends come in handy at this point.

Test fit the diff centre into the new housing first!! if the new housing is from an auto and you've got a manual the ring gear won't fit through the keyed hole. It requires a bit of angle grinder goodness to the housing to make it fit. (learnt this the hard way...)

Make sure your scraper seals are on the new housing before you replace all your kingpin bearings. (learnt this one too!!)

I'd suggest replacing your kingpin bearings while your at it...

to remove the bearing seat in the swivel ball for the kingpin bearings i put a socket that was just big enough into the seat from the inside of the ball then an extension bar sticking out the opposing hole and whacked it with a hammer... you'll probably understand this better once the swivel hub is off.

i think thats about it!!

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:38 am 
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Armsup

What would i do with you guys?? :D

pyrosian: What happen to the first 2 diffs?

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:54 am 
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i put the manual online a while back - has lots of pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?97u9i59xaa28ssr

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:15 am 
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Bent them both, one was a big day offroad the other was a deathwobble lost control into curb incident. The new one is gusseted from one end to the other! hopefully it will last!

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:39 am 
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pyrosian wrote:
Bent them both, one was a big day offroad the other was a deathwobble lost control into curb incident. The new one is gusseted from one end to the other! hopefully it will last!


pics of braced diff please?

I got some ORA axle trusses, in the post :twisted:

Alien: Cheers, very help full :D .

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:45 am 
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I'll try to get some photos tomorrow if i remember. I just bought some 50mm x 50mm x 6mm thick box section and cut it down into 50 x 35 c section to brace the diff the whole way across. If it was higher than 40mm it would hit the sump... The ORA ones seem to be the best but i couldn't afford them, might get the bits that go onto the swivel ball off of them before i go hard offroad again!

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:42 am 
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I went to order some axle seals from suzuki today the ones i have ordered are just seals that go on the end of the diff housing, is that right? 2 seals in total for the axle seal kit? :?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:44 am 
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monkey wrote:
I went to order some axle seals from suzuki today the ones i have ordered are just seals that go on the end of the diff housing, is that right? 2 seals in total for the axle seal kit? :?


Sounds right

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:45 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
monkey wrote:
I went to order some axle seals from suzuki today the ones i have ordered are just seals that go on the end of the diff housing, is that right? 2 seals in total for the axle seal kit? :?


Sounds right


8) The wait continues for parts then :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:54 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
monkey wrote:
I went to order some axle seals from suzuki today the ones i have ordered are just seals that go on the end of the diff housing, is that right? 2 seals in total for the axle seal kit? :?


Sounds right


:lol: Suzuki don't do kit's, you have to order every part you think you may need... :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:18 pm 
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Ok the diff swap is under way...first issue:

How do i get the drag link and tie rod off? :? Do i need a special tool?

2nd thing,

Quote:
5. remove the vac hub and the c clip inside it.


Where is the vac hub?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:23 pm 
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vac hub is what jimnys have instead of free wheeling hubs the easiest way to separate them is with a ball joint separator tool.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:25 pm 
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Cheers Gus!!! :D I almost brought one of them things today, but i didn't think it was the right tool :crazy:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:30 pm 
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they can be a bastard to get them to separate even with the tool, there is also the tuning fork style which is a bit rougher to use as you risk the chance of tearing the rubber boot while smacking the hell out of the tool.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:32 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
they can be a bastard to get them to separate even with the tool, there is also the tuning fork style which is a bit rougher to use as you risk the chance of tearing the rubber boot while smacking the hell out of the tool.

Image


:x I had that tool there in my hand ready to go to the check out, but thought is would be to big for the ball joint :oops: . I have already split boot :roll: but will have another one by the week end :P .

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 12:13 pm 
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Here's one for you guys to solve

Image

Where those steel vacuum lines go from the front to the back of the diff....where are they going to go now? Cus there is a truss there now :roll: . Do you guys think it would be ok to bend them sucks to fit?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 12:48 pm 
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They are just bundy tube aren't they? You could carefully bend them, or maybe cut them and replace with something flexible that you can run wherever you like?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 12:52 pm 
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SLYjoel wrote:
They are just bundy tube aren't they? You could carefully bend them, or maybe cut them and replace with something flexible that you can run wherever you like?


I was thinking that, but would it would have to be a really good fit onto the pipe. Of to repco tomorrow it is then.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:34 pm 
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Silly question...but how dose the axle/cv's come out? I got the hub and c-clip of, went ot pull the axle out and nothing moved? Dose it have to be in a certain position?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:40 pm 
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Not sure of the differences between sierra and jimny, but are you upto this stage? I don't think your CV will fit through and you need to keep pulling stuff apart.. Unless your pulling it apart as a whole, then just knock the rear seals and king pins off...

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Last edited by boostedbrick on Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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