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Mubby

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 2:32 am Posts: 988 Location: Brisbane, South.
Vehicle: Jimny, Lifted on 30's
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:30 am |
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So my tierod boot rubbers on all of my steering components have evaporated over the last 30 years. I bought some new ones and tried to remove the steering arms etc, to replace all the 6 rubbers.
I had no luck moving them at all. Should you be able to undo the bolt and drop them out the bottom? Or is there some tricky way i need to do this to replace the rubbers?
Thanks
Nick.

_________________ Jimny, 3" Lift, 30" Treps, Gears
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Microwire
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:40 am Posts: 543 Location: Casula
Vehicle: Vitara 90'
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:48 am |
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I usually have to put a bit of metal on top of the nut (a little bit smaller so you don't screw the thread) and wack the shit out of it with a hammer.
Also there are spreader tools you can get too
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joe5701
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 7:43 am Posts: 241 Location: narromine
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:22 am |
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Rusho

Tubby Elfsdong
Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 6501 Location: Northside, Brisbane
Vehicle: Coily Sierra
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:26 am |
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Hit the side of the tie rod itself, they are a very tight tapered fit. The shock of hitting the side of them is usually enough to free them up 
_________________ Shep is a closet jimny lover!!!!
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:30 am |
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Rusho wrote: Hit the side of the tie rod itself, they are a very tight tapered fit. The shock of hitting the side of them is usually enough to free them up 
You mean hit the knuckle arm on the side where the tapered pin passes through  If you hit the tie rod it won't do shit. 
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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Rusho

Tubby Elfsdong
Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 6501 Location: Northside, Brisbane
Vehicle: Coily Sierra
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:31 am |
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Fatzook wrote: Rusho wrote: Hit the side of the tie rod itself, they are a very tight tapered fit. The shock of hitting the side of them is usually enough to free them up  You mean hit the knuckle arm on the side where the tapered pin passes through  If you hit the tie rod it won't do shit. 
That's what I said 
_________________ Shep is a closet jimny lover!!!!
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buzbox
Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 3600 Location: Wollongong NSW
Vehicle: LWB Sierra & XL7
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 1:10 pm |
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Scrawny

I live here!
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 10528 Location: Brissie
Vehicle: Popemobile
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:17 pm |
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Microwire wrote: I usually have to put a bit of metal on top of the nut (a little bit smaller so you don't screw the thread) and wack the shit out of it with a hammer.
Also there are spreader tools you can get too
You'll stuff the ball joint if you do it this way. Hit the arm as Rusho suggested. Get a big hammer and pretend it just broke into your house and pinched all your stuff.
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fordem
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 2656 Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: APK416, A6G415, A6N415
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:33 pm |
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Either get a puller/separator - and please no "pickle forks" - or - get two hammers - place one on each side of the eye and then "clap" - or strike the knuckle on both sides simultaneously - this shocks the pin from taper.
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Microwire
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:40 am Posts: 543 Location: Casula
Vehicle: Vitara 90'
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 Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 9:54 pm |
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Scrawn wrote: Microwire wrote: I usually have to put a bit of metal on top of the nut (a little bit smaller so you don't screw the thread) and wack the shit out of it with a hammer.
Also there are spreader tools you can get too You'll stuff the ball joint if you do it this way. Hit the arm as Rusho suggested. Get a big hammer and pretend it just broke into your house and pinched all your stuff.
I don't see how it'd stuff the ball joint any more than hitting the arm? I would have thought it'd be better than hitting the arm because you will only have vertical movement, all your doing is hitting the part that's stuck not the part that's attached to it.
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Scrawny

I live here!
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 10528 Location: Brissie
Vehicle: Popemobile
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 Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:25 am |
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You'll end up squashing/damaging the thread and nut. If you hit the arm it gives the right amount of shock in the right place to loosen the taper
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Microwire
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:40 am Posts: 543 Location: Casula
Vehicle: Vitara 90'
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 Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:44 am |
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That's why I use a piece of metal that is slightly smaller so you don't touch the thread. I take the nut off first too.
Either way you'd get the wanted result. 
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Mubby

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 2:32 am Posts: 988 Location: Brisbane, South.
Vehicle: Jimny, Lifted on 30's
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 Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 7:36 am |
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Awesom thanks guys i think ill try the two hammer approach and get back to youse!
_________________ Jimny, 3" Lift, 30" Treps, Gears
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Mubby

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 2:32 am Posts: 988 Location: Brisbane, South.
Vehicle: Jimny, Lifted on 30's
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 Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 4:56 am |
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Thanks for your help guys, got them all out and changed over today!!!!!!! took about 1 hour to do six  !
_________________ Jimny, 3" Lift, 30" Treps, Gears
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