auszookers.com :: View topic - Non-switched transfer to switched one?

A combination of wear on the 1st/2nd shift fork and a build up of crud/oil sludge in the detent ball gallery.

Don't drive with your hand resting on the gearstick (but after 30 years, it might be too late advice for some 1.0 litre Sierras!). You can drill additional or larger holes to intersect with the detent ball gallery (all it does is hold a couple of springs and ball bearings, a bit more oil flow won't hurt), but the best remedy is more frequent oil changes for the gearbox (once you get up over 200,000km, you tend not to follow the regular servicing schedule by the book).

Haven't had a lot to do with Sierras but if you're planning on gears, may as well make better mounts in the first place. I ordered one of the rings with my gears from Lowrange as well as shifter seat and bearing kit. I actually used spring shackle rubbers for mounts because I had them laying around. Even with a 2stroke motor big tyres, lockers and gears = much greater stress on transfer mounts.

The early 1.0lt with the 4 point system will actually hold up pretty well, provided the bushes themselves are still up to it. I see above you're considering a switched case in order to fit gears, that later case will bolt up to the early 4 point brackets just fine, it will be the driveshafts/flanges that will need a bit of mucking around with.

See THIS THREAD for some ideas.

Those mounts I bought are actually holding up allright. I did land on the transfer and it tore the rubber on the underside (between the washer and mount coming from the chassis) it also put a little crack between the bolt hole and the edge, I'm not sure if this was because the rubber couldn't take enough of the movement or cause it landed pretty hard.

The broken rubber was easy to replace though and the crack is hardly going anywhere. ARB keep em on the shelf and are only 20 bucks. I found if you cut them with a hot knife you get a nice straight cut and the edge melts over nicely.

Author:	sideways [ Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:56 pm ]
Post subject:	Non-switched transfer to switched one?
Jumping out of second gear seems to be a pretty common thing for 1 litres, I know there's a lot of things that could cause a gearbox to do that, but does anyone know what causes it in this particular instance? Thanks Hayden

Author:	303zuke [ Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:52 am ]
Post subject:	Re: SJ40 gearboxes.
A combination of wear on the 1st/2nd shift fork and a build up of crud/oil sludge in the detent ball gallery. Don't drive with your hand resting on the gearstick (but after 30 years, it might be too late advice for some 1.0 litre Sierras!). You can drill additional or larger holes to intersect with the detent ball gallery (all it does is hold a couple of springs and ball bearings, a bit more oil flow won't hurt), but the best remedy is more frequent oil changes for the gearbox (once you get up over 200,000km, you tend not to follow the regular servicing schedule by the book).

Author:	sideways [ Sun Mar 18, 2012 3:31 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: SJ40 gearboxes.
303zuke wrote: A combination of wear on the 1st/2nd shift fork and a build up of crud/oil sludge in the detent ball gallery. Don't drive with your hand resting on the gearstick (but after 30 years, it might be too late advice for some 1.0 litre Sierras!). You can drill additional or larger holes to intersect with the detent ball gallery (all it does is hold a couple of springs and ball bearings, a bit more oil flow won't hurt), but the best remedy is more frequent oil changes for the gearbox (once you get up over 200,000km, you tend not to follow the regular servicing schedule by the book). Cheers! Good to know it's not something to silly/expensive! Seeing as I now have a spare gearbox, I'l rebuild that and get it in when I do the transfer. Would be nice to be able to slow down in second gear without it trying to kill me. Speaking of transfer cases, what does it take to put a switched case (I want crawler gears) into my 1981 model? Do I just need the transfer or will I need the arms too? Will I have to make arms that will fit or ???? Thanks Hayden

Author:	3cyl [ Sun Mar 18, 2012 4:36 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Non-switched transfer to switched one?
Haven't had a lot to do with Sierras but if you're planning on gears, may as well make better mounts in the first place. I ordered one of the rings with my gears from Lowrange as well as shifter seat and bearing kit. I actually used spring shackle rubbers for mounts because I had them laying around. Even with a 2stroke motor big tyres, lockers and gears = much greater stress on transfer mounts.

Author:	sideways [ Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:13 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Non-switched transfer to switched one?
3cyl wrote: Haven't had a lot to do with Sierras but if you're planning on gears, may as well make better mounts in the first place. I ordered one of the rings with my gears from Lowrange as well as shifter seat and bearing kit. I actually used spring shackle rubbers for mounts because I had them laying around. Even with a 2stroke motor big tyres, lockers and gears = much greater stress on transfer mounts. Dear god have mercy, after posting what I asked before I went and stuck my head under the Sierra. How on Earth does that... Ahem.... mounting system hold up to stock gearing?! Yet another thing LJs have over Sierras!! I wasn't sure if it'd need stronger mounts or not, but now I'm quite certain it would.... Gah! More work! The rubber mounts have just about perised into nothing.

auszookers.com http://auszookers.com/forum/

Non-switched transfer to switched one? http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31240	Page 1 of 1

Author:	303zuke [ Mon Mar 19, 2012 1:36 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Non-switched transfer to switched one?
The early 1.0lt with the 4 point system will actually hold up pretty well, provided the bushes themselves are still up to it. I see above you're considering a switched case in order to fit gears, that later case will bolt up to the early 4 point brackets just fine, it will be the driveshafts/flanges that will need a bit of mucking around with. See THIS THREAD for some ideas.

Author:	Jackson [ Mon Mar 19, 2012 12:36 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Non-switched transfer to switched one?
Those mounts I bought are actually holding up allright. I did land on the transfer and it tore the rubber on the underside (between the washer and mount coming from the chassis) it also put a little crack between the bolt hole and the edge, I'm not sure if this was because the rubber couldn't take enough of the movement or cause it landed pretty hard. The broken rubber was easy to replace though and the crack is hardly going anywhere. ARB keep em on the shelf and are only 20 bucks. I found if you cut them with a hot knife you get a nice straight cut and the edge melts over nicely.

Author:	sideways [ Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:47 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Non-switched transfer to switched one?
303zuke wrote: The early 1.0lt with the 4 point system will actually hold up pretty well, provided the bushes themselves are still up to it. I see above you're considering a switched case in order to fit gears, that later case will bolt up to the early 4 point brackets just fine, it will be the driveshafts/flanges that will need a bit of mucking around with. See THIS THREAD for some ideas. Cheers. I didn't mean the rubber mounts them selves, more the relatively flimsy looking arms where it mounts to the chassis. Indeed those rubber mounts must be good, as one of mine is missing and another is just about to leave and it still feels okay and doesn't clonk around or anything! Makes you wander why the went to the other mounting system... As for the flanges and shafts, I was hoping to find a case from a N.T so I wouldn't have to do all that stuff and not have to sort out something for the handbrake. Jackson wrote: Those mounts I bought are actually holding up allright. I did land on the transfer and it tore the rubber on the underside (between the washer and mount coming from the chassis) it also put a little crack between the bolt hole and the edge, I'm not sure if this was because the rubber couldn't take enough of the movement or cause it landed pretty hard. The broken rubber was easy to replace though and the crack is hardly going anywhere. ARB keep em on the shelf and are only 20 bucks. I found if you cut them with a hot knife you get a nice straight cut and the edge melts over nicely. Awesome, I'l have to go and get some me thinks! Thanks Hayden

Page 1 of 1	All times are UTC + 9:30 hours
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group https://www.phpbb.com/