[troopy]

Hi guy's
I have made a few changes in the build plan of my new buggy and they have left me with a g16b with an aw4 auto that needs a new home and since the 1 litre in my lj81 is getting a bit smokey why not replace it with a newer injected motor and a gearbox that has an overdrive.

I know that mr kenn and joe have done this conversion but I'm worried about sump clearance with the centred pumkin and driveshaft and wondered if anyone had some advice or pics to show how they got around it. I plan to run the existing transfer if possible as I don't run large tyres or need any lower gearing.

Any helpful advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated

[burls]

Gets some NT or WT diffs they are offset

[joeblow]

burls wrote:

Gets some NT or WT diffs they are offset

Then what do you about clearing the center of the diff to the chassis rails?

[troopy]

I'd like to keep the standard diffs as mine have already got a disc conversion and it will still look stock from the outside with centered pumpkins, the goal is to make it so that without lifting the bonnet or looking inside you can't tell it has the g16

[sideways]

Baleno sump is meant to look a lot like an lj one. How much overdrive does the aw4 have? It'd need about 30% to get it back to standard highway revs. You'l probably need 1l diff gears.

You'l have to chop the absolute shit out of the floor and gearbox crossmember to fit that gearbox in! I'd go for a 1.3l sierra gearbox (Which would need some chopping to fit too, but at least you'd have somewhere to put your feet) just to avoid doing so much work and for feet room.

[kenn]

You need to take 50mm out of floor on each side of the tunnel then, make a foot rest for your left foot this will make space for the auto linkages. Remove your cross members and make knew ones. I have a 2in body lift (this helps to clear the air intake pipe) and leaf over and only had to shave about 20/30 mm off the bottom of the sump and shorten the oil pickup. I made a box under the shifter to mount it and ran the linkages through the factory grommets. The computers are under the dash compleat with the vit wiring loom, steering column and dash cluster. I even fitted the vit wiper motor, heater fan (into the lj box) and the peddle box with some trimming. To cool it I run a 1.3 plastic tank rad with a trimmed shroud. If I was doing the engine mounts again I'd make custom ones and not use the factory ones again, so I suggest doing that. The fuel pump is external from a Nissan skyline (rb30) with an internal swirl pot for the pickup in the custom tank.
I hope this helps. I can't think of anything else but if I do I'll let you know. Good luck with the build. It was the best thing I ever did to my LJ.

[troopy]

Thank you very much kenn I will be taking your advice and your lj is what has inspired me to have a go at this conversion. It will be a couple months before I will start the engine swap but I already have everything required so it shouldn't be a drawn out affair.
As for the overdrive gearing anything above the standard 4 speeds 1:1 top gear will help and if I need to change the diff ratios I have a set waiting.

[kenn]

Any time and thank you, you'll have to change the steering setup aswell.

[Highway-Star]

I had been working on a G16 + Auto convserion in an LJ81 in the background. Would still be working on it if I wasn't fixing my other car.

Anyway, I wanted to keep the centered diffs also, but gave up on the idea because I had a bee in my bonnet about getting the drivetrain as low as possible (offset diff helps for sump clearance). I'm sure it can be done with the centred diffs (Kenn's car is the proof); but I folded and changed to Sierra diffs .

Either way I doubt retaining the LJ transfer is feasible. Strength is a maybe concern, but also it's location is too far forward for such a long transmission in front of it (if your moving it, may as well replace it I figure). Also if your retaining centred diffs the LJ transfers outputs are very high up; a vertically mounted Sierra transfer can lower the outputs a fair bit, which would help significantly in clearing the auto pan with the front tailshaft.

I can't comment on required body mods, haven't got anywhere near that far yet.

Not sure if it will help you much due to my diff decision, but below is where I had got up to with mine:
Engine in front:


Side On:


Gearbox mount, and transfer, showing original transfer crossmember position also: