[dude!]

I made a mistake. I removed my distributor without marking alignment properly and moved the car in gear.

How I fixed it:
I removed the 4 bolts holding my rocker cover down and lifted it up so I could see the exhaust valve. I then attached a spanner with a 17mm socket to the crank bolt inside the bottom pulley.
I turned the engine by hand (clockwise) until the exhaust valve had open and shut I then waited for the notch on the bottom pulley to reach the 0° mark in the indicator, so piston #1 should be at tdc on its ignition stroke and cylinder 4 at tdc on its exhaust stroke.
I marked the distributor housing down the middle of point #1 and re-installed the distributor with the middle of the rotor button aimed at the mark I made. So now my timing is where it roughly should be.

My question:
Now I just have to set my timing properly, from what I have read 10° btdc is standard so now all I have to do is align the notch on the pulley with the 10° mark on the bottom pulley and re-align the rotor button with the mark I made? Yes or no. This should at least make it run so I can get a timing light on it and dial it in?

[Santos]

Have you tried just starting it?

Done it that way once. The sierra manual shows how to line the dizzy all up with diagrams etc you can download it. Much easier then explaining here
http://www.suzuki4x4.net/manual/sj/chapter8.pdf

[royce]

you need to be more precise than that to get 10 deg tdc, but for the sake of this exercise a few things you can do

start it and adjust timing till the idle speed is the same
you might see a mark on the housing made by the bolt and washer, just get it in the same spot
if it moves under its own power and doesn't ping, it'll do

[dude!]

At the moment its not running as I've been doing a conversion to tbi. Its backfiring through the throttle body is it to advanced or not enough? Or 180° out although I'm fairly sure its not.

[christover1]

suzuk engines are often timed with #4 tdc not #1
make sure rotor button points at the lead that the valves say is on firing at tdc

180 out is a very common zook mistake

[offroadjack]

just line up the timingmark on O and pull out plug no 1..(front one closest to the timing belt) if the piston is not on top (check with a screwdriver )you just keep turning the crank one full turn again untll it does. there it is..firing on 1. then line up the rotor to the 1 on the dizziecap. done.

[offroadjack]

you still need a timinglight to adjust the timing from that point on tho...

[royce]

lol, no it doesnt

[dude!]

I`ve lined #1 at 10° before ignition tdc im certain of that. Still not running and backfiring through the throttle body

[want33s]

Forget the 10btdc just set it at zero to get it running and go from there... Sounds like you are 180 out.



Does anybody trust the front pulley on a 1.3?

I'd rather use the flywheel marks and the inspection hole.

[Wazz]

Advance it till it pings, then back it off abit. Done

[dude!]

Its a g13ba no inspection hole :\

[dude!]

Timing is ok Its trying to start just seems to over fuel. I pull the injector plug off and it kicks over a little but just won't bloody start . Letting it air out and I'll try again later

[Santos]

want33s wrote:

I'd rather use the flywheel marks and the inspection hole.

amen

[303zuke]

What engine are we talking about?

The F8A, F10A and G13A have the timing at 10deg BTDC, but the G13BA (prob the most common eng on this forum) is 8deg BTDC, although some people do like to dial in a little bit more advance than factory.

Check the specs on the stickers on the underside of your bonnet.

[303zuke]

dude! wrote:

Its a g13ba.....

I pull the injector plug off and it kicks over a little but just won't bloody start

Injector plug?
Maybe you mean G13BB?

[31zook]

I'm guessing your fitting a 1.6 TBI to a 1.3 with no extra fuel system contol?

Put your foot half way down on the throttle (don't pump) and kick it over. The 1.6 cold start is set by the ECU and is a rich mixture even for a 1.6, so on a 1.3 that has the butterfly closed it struggles for air and eventually back fires like a bawse. Have you pulled your dizzy apart and wired it up? And you should work out your timing being spot on, we struggled for ages with the timing being one tooth out and it sort of starting on the furthest rotation of the dizzy, couple this with over fueling and it took forever to get running.

Hope it helps.

[JrZook]

303zuke wrote:

dude! wrote:

Its a g13ba.....

I pull the injector plug off and it kicks over a little but just won't bloody start

Injector plug?
Maybe you mean G13BB?

TBI conversion.

[fordem]

offroadjack wrote:

just line up the timingmark on O and pull out plug no 1..(front one closest to the timing belt) if the piston is not on top (check with a screwdriver )you just keep turning the crank one full turn again untll it does. there it is..firing on 1. then line up the rotor to the 1 on the dizziecap. done.

Both #1 & #4 pistons will be up when ever the crank is at zero, it's the cam position that decides which is the firing stroke.

[Rhinoman]

On my G16A I check which cylinder is on the compression stroke by watching the rockers through the oil filler hole, maybe the rocker cover you have has the filler in a different place.

[offroadjack]

fordem wrote:

offroadjack wrote:

just line up the timingmark on O and pull out plug no 1..(front one closest to the timing belt) if the piston is not on top (check with a screwdriver )you just keep turning the crank one full turn again untll it does. there it is..firing on 1. then line up the rotor to the 1 on the dizziecap. done.

Both #1 & #4 pistons will be up when ever the crank is at zero, it's the cam position that decides which is the firing stroke.

50\50 chance its on one but overlooked the bit where he said he had the cover off..that would make it easier now hey ..just turn crank till inlet 1 starts to open then keep turning further to tdc and there's you no. 1 firing point...

[droverdave]

want33s wrote:

Forget the 10btdc just set it at zero to get it running and go from there... Sounds like you are 180 out.


Does anybody trust the front pulley on a 1.3?

I'd rather use the flywheel marks and the inspection hole.

what reason is there to not trust the marks on the front pulley?

If the key way isnt damage, then i can't see one.

[jonno_racing]

On a side note, where did you get the wiring diagram for the TBI from???
when in doubt just play with the dizzy a bit, you will get it to go at some point then adjust from there.

[want33s]

droverdave wrote:

want33s wrote:

Forget the 10btdc just set it at zero to get it running and go from there... Sounds like you are 180 out.


Does anybody trust the front pulley on a 1.3?

I'd rather use the flywheel marks and the inspection hole.

what reason is there to not trust the marks on the front pulley?

If the key way isnt damage, then i can't see one.

Even though there are 4 or 5 bolts hold the front pulley on there is still a bit of play that will allow the pulley to rotate by about 2-3mm at its circumference, this combined with the mark being punched and the plastic timing cover also having a few mm movement doesn't add up to anywhere near the accuracy of the flywheel marks and inspection hole.
Suzuki put it there for a reason.

[fujitsubo]

just grave digging a bit but my G13BA runs smooth as at 10deg BTDC and runs like dog poo at 8deg BTDC no idea why never questioned it.