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Post Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:15 pm 
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I've searched youboob and googalized some info but can seen to find anything specific for the G16b, My workshop manual is rather vuage and only shows steps for the G13a. So can someone please guide me on how to set the valve's on my freshly built engine.

In particular the correct method and thickness of the feeler guage required.

Spanks.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:31 pm 
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Doesnt say on the tappet cover ??

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:04 pm 
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I cant remember the thickness needed off top of my head but its set between the cam and rocker which is easier.

I found getting an engineering strip, like a feeler gauge strip but about 30cm long in the right size and bending it in a U shape made it really easy to do.

Damo has made a few threads about it but I cant find them.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:41 pm 
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On the valve cover, it say's 16Valve... hahahaha

I found this link helpful, but it's for the G13a, I'm sure the same principle applies.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPVn2xwO81Q

My service manual say's between -
Intake - .8mm - 1.2mm
Exhaust - .8mm - 1.2mm

My main query is does each cam lobe need to be 6 o'clock (round end) for intake & exhaust when adjusting.

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:00 pm 
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http://www.suzimotive.com.au/technical.htm

I got my info off that site.
I bent my feeler gauges to do it

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 5:26 am 
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Its all coming back to me now, I used 0.1mm, note its 0.08-0.12mm not 0.8 to 1.2!!!!!

dont go by that video, on a 16 valves the feeler is between the cam and rocker pad, not the valve and rocker, its will be a different reading and on a 16v near on impossible to get at

yes you set each one with the cam lobe 6 oclock to the rocker, you can usually do a few valves at a time and then turn the engine over a bit and do a few more, turn by hand obviously with the plugs out to make it easier

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:25 am 
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Ok cool, Taking the measurement from the cam is so much easier.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:49 am 
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Ahhh almost done, Just a couple of things I've noticed and a little tip I've developed which may help others. And, yeah please let me know if it's wrong :)

For each time the exhaust side of the cam cam is at 12o'clock (lobe pointing straight up, Round end to take measurement) the crank keyway lines up with it's marking. So line up the marking after each revolution of the engine to get 6 or 12o'clock on the cam.

When adjusting the screw, just use your index finger nail instead of a screw driver. I fiddled around with the screw driver for about 5mins on just one valve to make the adjustment. I used my nail on a few other's, tightened up the nut, re-checked the measurement and perfect each time.

I'll try to do a write up on what I'm doing and post it up later. :)

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:59 am 
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Pulled this from a Baleno FSM. The "special tool" they use would simplicate things abit.


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Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:15 pm 
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Yep that's basically the diagram I have in my workshop manual but I don't find it very helpful. The special tool refers to an open end spanner type of thing with a screwdriver through it.. I saw it on a youboob video for a honda B18c but it's not necessary for the G16b. A bent spanner and screwdriver would be ideal, but I just used a socket and a screwdriver / finger and just kept checking it once it tight.

I've set the intake and exhaust at .10

Here's a little video of what I have done, please get up me if something is not right. I may have said that the intake is actually the exhaust, but meh, you get the idea. :D

http://s660.beta.photobucket.com/user/C ... f.mp4.html

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