Bazuka wrote:
Any brands of brake parts people recommend? Looking at rotors, pads and shoes.
If redoing the brakes
the drum brakes will probably require slave cylinders - available from low range $40 for the pair
possibly new springs and stuff etc will be helpful (sometimes the pins etc are rusted etc) - LROR $16 for the set
Shoes available from local auto parts suppliers are $35ish (last I checked). They dont last many trips, the water and mud roots them quickly. LROR $30
Only bother reading small print if you do lots of wheeling and lots of km/y in a sierra.
As per rear wheel bearings, these fail often with bigger tyres and lots of wheeling.
I was doing rear wheel bearings every 6 months, and brake shoes every 3 months.
It was costing me $360/yr to maintain the rear end, whilst wheeling harshly and DD it.
I opted for a rear disc conversion to avoid spending on drum brake shoes, and still not getting much of a hand brake.
However, I sold that and going to a vit based full floater (using sierra disc brakes etc on the rear with a bias valve, and xfer handbrake, but im adding linelocks and an auto, so will have park pawl too, so no need for handbrake anymore).
Vit based full floater cost me about $1000 for all bits etc.
I justified this 2 ways, I sold my old diff for $500, and the vit one will pay for itself in under 2 years.
It is also stronger and itll take more punishment, which means it'll be more reliable.
You wont need a vit based full floater, but you may want to consider a sierra based full floater.For the front
If you are planning to go bigger tyres, and get the front brakes done
I would consider doing LWB vented rotors and calipers etc.
From the 1.6L LWB vits 91-95(i think)
brake pads, just whats available from local supplier etc is fine
Bit of a shit to bleed, but braking is significantly better.
Plan out what you want.
Don't double spend etc
EDIT:
As per the ebay diff (3rd member) kits not having seals or crush tubes
Thats fine, the OEM seals are miles better, infact the OEM transfer seals are miles better too. (well input, and front d-shaft seal)
The OEM diff and transfer seals have an extra lip on them, which acts like a separate excluder seal.
These prevent shit getting into the sealing interface and make it last much longer than aftermarket seals.
You can also source your crush sleeves from Suzuki at the same time.