Yeah mate pretty simple and removable
Just two bits of 4mm angle, on the front
And back of the tube that go between the
Chassis rails. Bolted thought with 5x m8 bolts.

Then bolted the plate the winch came with
To to angle 4x m8 bolts, then bolted the winch
Down to thought the plate and the angle
Again with 4x m8 bolts.

Edit: just seen your original post in this thread. Hmmm. Wonder if the same can be done with a larger winch.

+1 - I'm sort of researching budget options for a winch setup on my sierra... like a lot of people...... and drovers setup definitely appeals to that.... really interested as to the capacity/size of winch you could fit like that...

8mm angled plate with a bit of extra support+full size 9500lb without hacking the grill. More info here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4826&p=535478&hilit=lil+foot#p535478

I'll play.

Conventional wisdom is that a 6k winch is about the lightest winch required for a Suzuki. Jimny's seem to come up to around 1600KG laden, using the industry accepted ratio of 1.5X your vehicle's weight, that's 5280 lbs. The industry also recommends always going to the next size up, not down, so that's how we end up with 6K as the useful minimum.

Remember that the rating for a winch is on the first layer, above that first layer, the winch runs faster but pulls less.

What's the consequence of a winch that's too small? Surely it's just really slow right?

Well, winches that are working right at their load limit are really slow, which is one problem, but they're also right at the limit of their brake capacity. You don't want to winch up out of something and then have the winch slowly lower you back into it once you've let your finger off the button.

I'll also maintain that you're not really saving any power. I'll use Warn as a guide because their data is easy to get hold of. Lets say you need to pull your car 20 feet to get it clear of the hole you are stuck in, and it's really stuck, so it requires 4000lb of pull to get you out. A 4K warn ATV winch will pull at 4 feet per minute whilst using 308 Amps. that's a 5 minute pull at 308 amps: 308X5 = 1540 total amps consumed

Now lets say you fit one of those too big, too heavy, and too power consumptive series wound 6K winches. at 4K that winch is pulling at 12.9 ft/m and consuming 360A. You're winching for just over minute and a half, consuming a total of 550A. That's one third of the power consumed, its less one third of the time spent on the rope.

Which winch requires the big battery and alternator?

Of course, I suppose you could use a snatch block for 1/2 the load - lets work that out.

Well, with a snatch block your ATV winch will pull at 11 feet a minute, and consume 175 amps. Your 20ft pull will take 3.63 minutes 3.63X175= 635 total amps consumed. So that's more power consumed than the 6K, twice the pull time, and you couldn't even do a 20ft pull with an ATV winch on a double line pull without re-rigging because there's only 55' of cable on the drum.

That 175 amp consumption is still three times what your stock alternator can deliver, so I think you'd still want an upgrade.

ATV winches are for ATV's. That's why they are called ATV winches.

I don't have a problem with an experienced club driver messing about with a 4.5K winch, lets say rear mounted or something - a light pull back out of something might be heaps more convenient than rigging a complicated snatch recovery or something (from my experience) but for single vehicle travel ATV winches aren't adequate, require more complicated recovery setups because of the short cable and requirement for a double pull, and still require an upgraded electrical system.

You don't want to take chances with undersized recovery gear if you are into single vehicle travel.

That T Max 4500lb winch would be a better bet than an actual ATV winch, but I wouldn't use one as my primary recovery equipment (IE for single vehicle travel)

Steve.

I tend to think that cheap winches are ruining 4wding