[pete_79]

I see what you're saying, trouble is it only happens in gear with the clutch engaged.
I can sit and rev it in neutral or in gear with the clutch in, it runs fine then.

The only minor thing I did notice when revving it out of gear was if I slowly bring up the revs and sit at one spot (say 3000 or 4000 rpm) it stays on those revs for a couple of seconds, then will drop down about 100rpm or so.
There's always a chance it's all linked, but that little dip in revs is far from the really dramatic action it has when actually trying to drive.

[rustyzook]

Have you checked your pump yet? Is it loosing pressure when the engine is loaded? It's a long shot but my old F10a used to do weird stuff like that just before the pump pissed everywhere.

Also how's the timing? Plugs dizzy and coil? I know I'm throwing stuff out thrrr that's most likely got nothing to do with it at all, but it might help to check it!

G16b is a good conversion haha

[pete_79]

rustyzook wrote:

Have you checked your pump yet? Is it loosing pressure when the engine is loaded? It's a long shot but my old F10a used to do weird stuff like that just before the pump pissed everywhere.

Also how's the timing? Plugs dizzy and coil? I know I'm throwing stuff out thrrr that's most likely got nothing to do with it at all, but it might help to check it!

G16b is a good conversion haha

Cheers mate.
New pump has been ordered.
The coil is still the same, everything else there has been done.

I'm going to blow down all of the lines between the tank and the pump, also check the fuel vapor system. Just to rule that out as well.

[Gwagensteve]

Marko_SJ wrote:

Cant really blame people for turfing the 1.3 for a G16B when faced with tail chasing like this.

Edit: here's a thought. Have you tried jury rigging a temporary tank first just to the carb to see if it runs right, and then to the fuel pump if the carb checks out. Might help isolate the issue?? If they both work it's your lines/pickup/tank vent/breather.

This might be misleading though. The carb needs circa 4psi of fuel pressure to work properly. If it's gravity fed there won't be sufficient fuel pressure to fuel the car and the problem may persist.

If you gravity fed through the fuel pump it might provide sufficient head that the pump can deliver enough pressure to fuel the car properly, again, misleading.

Using a small bottle and getting the pump to draw from that would eliminate problems with the hard lines andold hoses, but would only be an accurate test of pump performance if it was drawing from the same height (i.e bottom of the tank level)

Not being negative- it can just be very hard to isolate one fix at a time.

[pete_79]

Righto...

* Tank clean as a whistle.
* All fuel and vapor lines blown and clean.
* Half a tank of fresh fuel.

Started first kick, idled beautiful, revved up smooth. Double checked my timing, spot on.

Put it in gear clutch halfway out, stops dead.
Try a few times, at exactly half clutch even at nearly 3000rpm, stops dead.

Pulled the electrical plug on the clutch pedal.
Tested with plug disconnected, same.
Shorted across the plug, same.

What else is connect to the clutch that would work like a cutoff switch?

[pete_79]

Oh, and the fuel gauge was a bad earth.
Gauge worked fine when earthed and float bench tested fine.
Put it back together, nothing.

Ran a new earth, all sweet now.

[Marko_SJ]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Marko_SJ wrote:

Cant really blame people for turfing the 1.3 for a G16B when faced with tail chasing like this.

Edit: here's a thought. Have you tried jury rigging a temporary tank first just to the carb to see if it runs right, and then to the fuel pump if the carb checks out. Might help isolate the issue?? If they both work it's your lines/pickup/tank vent/breather.

This might be misleading though. The carb needs circa 4psi of fuel pressure to work properly. If it's gravity fed there won't be sufficient fuel pressure to fuel the car and the problem may persist.

If you gravity fed through the fuel pump it might provide sufficient head that the pump can deliver enough pressure to fuel the car properly, again, misleading.

Using a small bottle and getting the pump to draw from that would eliminate problems with the hard lines andold hoses, but would only be an accurate test of pump performance if it was drawing from the same height (i.e bottom of the tank level)

Not being negative- it can just be very hard to isolate one fix at a time.

Can't say I agree about the 4psi thing if you have fuel in the bowl. But I dont feel like arguing.

[MrRocky]

I reckon your fuel cutoff switch is cactus
Can u hear it working ?

[Gwagensteve]

I still vote pump. It just seems so related to load.

You might be right Marko, but I'm not confident it will run normally without any fuel pressure.

[pete_79]

MrRocky wrote:

I reckon your fuel cutoff switch is cactus
Can u hear it working ?

It does click when the ignition is switched on.
But I have my doubts about it, just because the last guys had messed with it so much.

I've also been reading that the cut off solenoid is linked to ignition, rpm and clutch, so it's still on my possibilities list.

Gwagensteve wrote:

I still vote pump. It just seems so related to load.

I'm hoping you're right....




Fortunately I'm heading off for a week on the Gold Coast with the family from Friday, then a week touring the north island of Un Zud for work the following week.
So hopefully the pump is delivered ready for me swap it over when I get back home.

[pete_79]

Mods, you can change this thread title to 'Losfer is a bloody legend!'

losfer wrote:

Disconnect the 2 wires going to clutch pedal switch. Cut off the sockets and join the 2 wires together. Seen this prob a couple of times.

I don't know what plugs I disconnected and shorted under the dash the other night, but they weren't the right ones on the clutch switch....
Jumped under there this afternoon with a fresh set of eyes, found the switch on the clutch joined the correct wires..... Problem gone!!!

Started fine, ran fine, engaged the clutch and it didn't stall.
Took it for a quick squirt up the road and it goes like a little bloody champ now.
No surging, no stumbling, running absolutely beautifully.

losfer, I can't thank you enough mate...



For those playing along at home, it's the blue wire joining the plugs in the foreground. They came off the 2 pins on the switch that's out of focus up in the back ground of this pic.

[losfer]

I is the internets mechanic.
I normally dont post unless im pretty sure what the problem is by the symptoms. You were pretty specific and ive seen the prob probably 4 times in 16 years..


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[MrRocky]

That is bizzare good job on the diagnose

[pete_79]

I'm thinking those wires would make a great kill switch.

I don't recon thieves would go too far with how it runs when those wires are disconnected.
I'm thinking I'll be joining these wires with a sneaky little switch under the dash somewhere. It'll probably never get used, but could come in handy one day..

[bumstein]

I'll throw that one in the memory banks!!

Can anyone tell me what the clutch pedal switch does exactly? Emission controls or something silly?

[Sage]

bumstein wrote:

I'll throw that one in the memory banks!!

Can anyone tell me what the clutch pedal switch does exactly? Emission controls or something silly?

I was wondering the same thing?

[losfer]

As well as the switches on the gearbag its one of the inputs for emmision control that operates the egr.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[bumstein]

Ah I had wondered thanks losfer

[primejo07]

pete_79 wrote:

Blkfxx wrote:

If you ground the sender wire, Gauge should read full.

Thanks mate.
Just quickly tested this and it does read full when earthed.

Proper noob question here, but I’m having fuel gauge issues as well. How do I ground the sender wire to check? I have dropped my tank and my sender seems to all be ok. I’m hoping it’s just a bad earth as well!

Thanks

[pete_79]

Connect the sender wire to the body instead of the float.

And to test the float itself, I didn’t feel like rolling around on the floor, so I just shoved a wire in the plug for the float down at the tank that was long enough to be able to stand at the drivers door with the float in my hand looking at the gauge on the dash.

Then just clipped another wire onto the body of the sender and found a good earth on the body of the car.
Raise and lower float (steadily with pauses in between) and see if the gauge moves up and down accurately enough for you.

At the moment mine only goes to 3/4 full, but once I’ve used the first 1/4 of a tank it’s correct from 3/4 to empty. That’s accurate enough for me.