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Post Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:02 pm 
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I am hoping someone with a standard sierra could help me measure some driveline angles.

Requirement is that the car must be standard, larger tyres is fine, but driveline must be untouched, ie, standard diffs and standard gearbox/tcase and mounts.

As some of you know I am completing a full engine/gearbox transplant which requires the tcase to be moved and I would like to recreate the standard flange angles on pinion/transfer case/gearbox output.

So, I am hoping someone has an angle finder (see pictured below), and could use that on the front and rear pinion flanges, tcase flanges and gearbox rear output.

I am a little confused as I understand the case output and the rear pinion flange must be parallel, however if that is paralell, how can the front output of the case match that of the front pinion flange when it leans the other way...

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Much thanks.

(I did try searching but no luck, if there is a thread could I be pointed in the direction please)

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:36 pm 
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If the tcase is moved and driveline swapped, doesn't that immediately disqualify it from being considered "standard" anyway?

By moving the case, you're going to change the angle at that end of the shaft. Just use some spring wedges to re-angle the dangle on the diff end. The important thing is that the angles match, not that the angle is the same as factory. Failing that, in my SPOA conversion we went with a hilux double cardan joint on the tcase ends of both shafts, then pointed the pinions straight at them when the perches were welded on.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 7:17 pm 
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Yes it does Alien, I was just wondering what factory is like. Everyone says it is important that the angles match, but I guess that doesn't matter for the front diff, as the front diff pinion and the transfer case front output point in opposite directions.

I was hoping someone could just post up a standard vehicle for reference.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:21 pm 
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Ive always found lwbs when lifted 2" or more to eat uni joints compared to swbs lifted 2" or so (4:1 ratio).
A mate fitted a lowrange hd rear shaft to his lwb that used toyota unis and never had issues with unis again.
The shaft was made to length by lowrange and worked out $350 to his door when the au$$$ was good. By comparison a replacement stock shaft in oz was $550 +

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 10:27 pm 
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It might be that the service life of the front end being part time was perfectly fine with mismatched angles? Given they spend a majority of the time in RWD, and when in 4WD it's generally low speeds, perhaps that makes weird angles "OK" from a factory point of view? Just guessing.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 11:08 pm 
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The front UJ angles do match.......It's just set up in bridge.

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from Vertical
Rear diff +5* rear tbox output +5*
front tbox output is +5* and the diff flange is -10*

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 1:20 pm 
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Perfect! Thanks, i was wondering if that was the case

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 6:50 am 
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I’m interested about the idea that LWB’s are harder on unis, because based on torque and angles (the two things that kill unis) it shouldn’t be the case. I wonder if the cause is more traction amplifying axlewrap?

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:11 am 
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When you take 2 identical lwbs
Lift one 2" and leave the other stock it tends to become quite apparent especially when you do quite a few roadd kms.
Keep in mind ive only owned maruti's and although they should be identical, well lets just say the indians dont have the same eye for detail as the japs

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:04 pm 
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That's interesting really as the front is exactly the same as a SWB and the rear should cope better with lift because the shaft is longer and there's less angle on the UJs with lift compared to the SWB.

My Dad runs a Maruti Gypsy king with 2" lift, a 1.6 8v and 4.16 tbox on 31s and he's had no issues with it eating UJs.

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:11 pm 
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Yeah cant explain it think im 5 - 6 marutis now and tried heaps of different brands. Even snapped a couple of spicers in half

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:24 pm 
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Now while scrolling the interwebs, I saw this image. This says that 'bridge' uni joint set up is a big no no...

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Thoughts?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 6:44 am 
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Umm - I can't see the image, but I can picture it in my mind.

Way back in the seventies I had a front wheel drive Chrysler that did not have the Rzeppa style CV joints that are now very common, instead it had tripod joints on the inner end, and double cardans on the outer - double cardans with an arrangement to keep the angles on the cardans identical. A double cardan CV joint on lock is essentially a "bridge UJ" with a very short drive shaft between the UJs - as long as the angles are similar, it works just fine.

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