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Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:03 pm
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Vehicle: 1990 SJ70 SWB Soft Top

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:09 am 
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Judging by the amount of smoke my SJ70 is blowing at the moment, I'm thinking a rebuild is probably pretty imminent. At a minimum, I'd be thinking hone, rings, valve-stem seals, etc.

Has anybody had this done recently, as I'm interested in a ballpark figure on cost?

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 11:00 pm
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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:33 am 
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Too much to justify.

Rebuilding a g13 properly will cost more han your car is worth.

Fitting a g16B will cost less than a poor quality rebuild.

Whilst it IS possible to rebuild a g13, they’re very flexible motors and don’t like being apart. Most cheap rebuilds don’t last long at all, and a comprehensive rebuild with the required machining to ensure the engine is square when it goes back together is very difficult to justify when less $ will result in a much more powerful and dependable motor via an EFI G16b swap.

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Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2009 12:00 am
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Location: Ballarat, VIC

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:37 am 
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As above

At a minimum, the following parts:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki-o ... d-kit.html

And you will need machining work.

Many/most recos on the suzuki motors don't seem to last long, often more cost effective to find a low km engine, as quality machining and quality rebuild components makes a quality rebuild cost a lot.

I wouldn't mess around with a fb build such as high/low comp pistons/special cam grinds/carby mods/forced induction etc, sure it has some wank value, but most often not worth it.

Baleno g16bs are the flavour of the month for a reason.

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Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 4:07 pm
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Location: beyond the 26th
Vehicle: G16b sierra

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 10:19 am 
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x3

Wouldn't bother, for a lot less effort you can put a g16b in and have a great time once the conversion is done. I made the mistake of building a Toyota 4k instead of doing a 4age swap in a KE70, a whole lot of time and money for very little reward.

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Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:00 pm
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Location: Melton Victoria!

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:37 pm 
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I swear by a rebuilt 1.3.....

My last rebuild with pistons and all was about $600 in parts from memory

Luckily a good family friend is a mechanic so I stripped it down and cleaned everything and for him to rebuild it was a bottle of makers mark

He also did a mates engine both are going strong! Mine doesn't get driven all that much my mates was a daily and was sold when he parted the car. It's still going strong in the other car too

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Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:00 pm
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Location: Melton Victoria!

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:38 pm 
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Also had the head machined as my head ended up being caroded and didn't know the condition of the one I got

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Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:00 pm
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Location: perth

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:35 pm 
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I reckon you would be lucky to get 100,000 out of a rebuilt suzi engine. That being said most sierras would be lucky to do 100,000 kms from this point in time to the end of the cars life so maybe comparison to the original engines lifespan thus far isnt really relevant

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Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:54 pm
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Vehicle: 91 Tin Top

Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:57 pm 
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Apparently my engine was “reconditioned” at 160,000 and it’s just about to tick over 250,000 now.

I would hazard a guess that the reconditioning was mostly likely a set of rings and maybe big end bearings, could be wrong, maybe it was machined properly. But either way, it’s the original engine that’s been split and is now almost at that 100,000 mark.

I guess it’s a little rattly compared to most other 1.3s that I’ve been driving with lately and spits a lot of water out of the exhaust.
But no other signs of impending death at the moment.

If it does die it just means I’ll be 1.6 hunting sooner then I wanted, but so far so good.

The carby gives me more grief than anything else....

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:00 pm 
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Be interested to see what the comp is, most re-ring jobs dont fare so well on ovalised bores that zook donks are famous for

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Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:54 pm
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Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:17 pm 
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Haven’t tested it, but reckon it wouldn’t be that great....

I see it’s only $14 for a tester off eBay, might look into it after Christmas. Not going wheeling until the new year, so not stressed at the moment.

Will report back here if I get around to checking it (or if it implodes after another 10,000kms ;) )

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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:00 am
Posts: 1962
Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: 98 5 dr SQ420, 05 5dr JB420

Post Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:16 am 
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suzukikid wrote:
I swear by a rebuilt 1.3.....

My last rebuild with pistons and all was about $600 in parts from memory


I feel the same way - my 1.3 was rebuilt with the part cost being roughly the same as above, everything genuine Suzuki except the pistons because I opted for high compression pistons.

That engine went into a Swift 5 door hatch that went like stink - I'm talking about an 8V SOHC carbed engine that was capable of running with the turbocharged Toyota Starlets - an EP71 was no match, and it held it's own with the EP82 & EP91 - 40,000 odd miles of torment later, the right rear suspension knuckle snapped putting the car & driver (my son) into the canal - but the engine was still going strong.

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 11:00 pm
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Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 7:58 am 
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I think the issue here is a lack of data- pretty much everything is anecdotal.

I and others have had problems with rebuilt g series engines falling apart.

I’m not denying that people have successfully rebuilt g series engines. Some people might have even had good success with a quick hone and re-ring.

However, there are known issues with these motors in relation to ovalisation of the bores and if the motor is affected, a hone isn’t going to fix it, and at that point the machining involved will make rebuilding impractical in my opinion, unless you have access to a machinist with a deck plate for a G motor.

Most people doing a quick hone wouldn’t consider buying/hiring a dial gauge to even check bore ovality.

So, when the question is asked I will stick to my advice that it’s not really prudent to rebuild these motors as the cost doesn’t justify the outcome.

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Location: Northcliffe, W.A.
Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.

Post Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:48 pm 
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I agree I'd look towards sticking a G16b in but they're pretty hard to find these days and when you do they're generally quite high kms. I also agree that rebuilds can be hit or miss but that said I know of a few rebuilds that have been running fine for years.

Rebuild kits are crazy cheap now that the world is a smaller place. One would think the Maruti genuine parts would have some level of quality control.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUZUKI-SJ41 ... Sw8cNUOq9n

Rings and bearings kit, not that I see why you'd bother given how cheap the set with pistons is.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUZUKI-SJ41 ... 5731.m3795

Machining depends what you need. Some motors are more fucked than others. In my experience machining is roughly.....

Bore/hone up to $400.
Deck head/block $50-80 each
Linish crank up to $100.

I think line bore ect is overkill on a motor like this. They don't have bearing problems and they're not even making 50hp/l.

If you're interested in an elcheapo rings and bearings rebuild I'd go for the above kit with pistons, hone it, have the block hot tanked, probably get the head and block decked and run with that. It'l likely outlast the rest of the life of the car and you'll be out of pocket less than $500. Still, if the bores are bad then I'd have it bored. Total tools sell a micrometer set for $100 and snap gauges are dirt cheap on ebay.

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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:00 am
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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: 98 5 dr SQ420, 05 5dr JB420

Post Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 1:02 pm 
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Maybe the longevity relates to the quality of the "rebuild" - mine certainly wasn't a "quick hone", although that was an option, as the bore was actually within the tolerances - I opted to bore to first oversize (0.50 mm) as it was my intention to build a motor that would go the distance.

I don't recall an issue with "ovality" on my block, but I know it was checked - the machinist is a friend who likes to talk and whenever I stop by, we'll have long involved discussions on the best way to do whatever needs to be done, I can recall him showing me how to do the measurements and discussing that it was within spec and that a hone & re-ring was an option.

Yes - it did cost me more than the car was worth - at least from the stand point that even with the rest of the car in good nick, the rebuild cost me more than I could sell the car for - it was however, less than I would have had to pay for a replacement in similar condition with a known good engine, which is what I would have had at the end of the rebuild.

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Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:04 pm
Posts: 125
Vehicle: 89 suzuki sierra

Post Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 4:55 pm 
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I just done a full rebuild in mine, pistons rings, head shave etc the works. Comes down to if you know people and what you are willing and able to do yourself. I did 90% of the work myself so saved a heap overall cost me in the $500 ball park figure with a family member owning a Engine recondition business does help alot though..

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