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Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:41 pm
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Vehicle: F10a tin top ferociously stock

Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:42 am 
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What skeletons live in the v6 Vit 2 litre closet please? Told cam chains are fragile and very $$...

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:04 am 
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Timing chains should be done at least every 100k apart from that make sure you change the oil regularly.

Nothing on them is fragile in the slightest, just require maintenance

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:26 am 
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Chains aren’t fragile- it’s the tensioners that wear and let the chains go loose.

I believe replacement tensioners are a revised material that’s more durable.

Other than that, they’re the same as any motor- oil changes and cleanliness of inlet air will determine life.

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Gwagensteve is why auszookers will never be taken seriously

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Vehicle: F10a tin top ferociously stock

Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:49 am 
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Well, it's rebuilt about 50k or less ago.

And just got told (by a very good mechanic) quick get rid of it as the camchains go regular.

And got told $3,500 to do a cam chain... Breaking my daughters' heart as she loves her Vit..

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:02 pm 
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$3.5k is very high. I hope this figure isn’t from the “good mechanic”

I’d be more worried about the previous rebuild. Tensioners should have been done by then. They’ll give you PLENTY of warning as noise on startup that sounds like a dying idler bearing.

I believe oil and filter choice are critical to maximising tensioner life. Do a search, this has been covered before in detail.

In short, if it’s not noisy on startup now (and if the tensioners were done 50k ago) use the right oil and filter and it should last the life of the rest of the car.

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Gwagensteve is why auszookers will never be taken seriously

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Vehicle: F10a tin top ferociously stock

Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:13 pm 
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Not really noisy to me, but a tinkle as it starts and a little bit of a click until it warms. The mechanic is a very good one, he doesn't do many zooks but his sample seems like all had the same issues. The mechanic who rebuilt it? Not so sure but unwilling to just slag him either as he has a good general reputation. It's a sad thing as my daughter has tipped a few dollars into it now, new tyres, radiator, brakes, shocks etc. and it goes wonderfully. Even the auto is solid and the car suits exactly what she wants. Unfortunately moving back to Adelaide to go to uni and it looks like it might be best just to handball it and go for a city shopping trolly for the next two years... I love the engine, spins up great and goes well in the sand or just tooling along the blacktop. Did not expect that advice after the last service I tell you...

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Vehicle: F10a tin top ferociously stock

Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:24 pm 
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Might have the oil a bit heavy 15W/40 - as we are over 40C on the beaches this time of year and we have sort of used that stuff for years...

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:43 pm 
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The auto will be the last thing to give trouble. They’re basically indestructible

Use the factory specified oil grade and you need to be careful about the filter.
The heavier oil will slow oil flow up to the tensioners and chains.

This has been well documented on here.

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Gwagensteve is why auszookers will never be taken seriously

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 1:30 pm 
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Got it. The vehicle has almost exclusively been serviced by mechanics bar two oil and filter changes by myself and daughter - oil used was that recommended by the chart in store, and mirrored the grade and quality of that used by the mechanic.

Never worried about what oil filter I use until now - apart from using known brands, used Ryco for a lot of years but not the last couple of services. I just listened to her cold start it - I thought it sounded very healthy and am not stressing about it's imminent demise just yet...

Thanks for the comments, I've been away from the page for a while but the same crew tend to have the answers still ;) All future services will use the stock filter and 10W/30 oil.

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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:59 pm
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Vehicle: 2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara SQ625

Post Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 5:09 pm 
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http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachments/1g-2001-2006-xl-7/3457d1144165609-2001-xl-7-engine-problems-suzuki25chainrattletb.pdf

If this is the one y’all are talking about it’s H25. However I know that H25 and H27 use the same timing parts and since H20 is essentially the same motor it probably uses most of the same parts and so is susceptible to the same issues.

In terms of a fix I’ve had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump etc etc done on the original H25 in my GV. It cost about $800 including parts from memory. Make sure they look up the above TSB regarding correct application of sealant into the gap between the heads and block when reinstalling the timing cover or you will have an annoying oil leak.

In terms of cleanliness you can’t overemphasise this. When I bought my GV at 108,000km it had the original H25 in it, ran perfectly, a short while later I was getting a bit of rattle from the timing chain. Thought no big deal, I’ll get that replaced. When the engine was opened up it looked like the previous owner had never once serviced the car in its entire life. Mechanic and I were on the fence about whether to dump it and get a new motor but being short on cash I decided just to proceed with the timing chain. Mechanic cleaned it up as best he could. Turns out that the gunk was holding the motor together because after about 50km of driving it started smoking like crazy and consuming a ton of oil. Failed valve guide/seal was dumping oil into the engine.

After this I bought a used H27 with a full service history (every 15,000km according to the log books as it was out of a fleet vehicle) which had 190,000km on it. Put all the new timing gear from the H25 on it and it honestly hasn’t missed a beat despite having nearly twice the mileage of my original motor. I recently had the heads rebuilt and ported/polished and when the heads were off the bottom end looked like new, no ring ridge. I do oil/filter every 5000km with full synthetic Total 5w40 and other filters and fluids according to the service manual, the engine doesn’t take any oil and I thrash the piss out of it off road. It’s now nearing 230,000km and no issues.

So moral of the story is keep it serviced, clean and maintained and you won’t have any problems. I’ve found it to be generally quite reliable and relatively easy to work on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 5:41 pm 
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Thanks Kingkom.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:06 am 
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Your "very good" mechanic is basing his info on a small sample size, its like saying all ford rangers will catch fire, all 3.0 litre patrols will grenade or all g16bs will crack heads.
Its idiotic scare mongering

He would only pay attention to the one or two he has seen die.

If its not noisey (you would know trust me) and you look after it you will never have any issues.

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Joined: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:20 am
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Location: Melbourne
Vehicle: '85 Sierra LWB, '99 GV 2.5L

Post Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 10:09 pm 
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The only other thing I can suggest is 1/2way common, is an oil leak from towards the front passengers (L/H) side - there is an O ring between the block & main sump.
Can be bad enough for a RWC fail & if it leaks (a weep, doesn't pour out) enough, for long enough without checking oil levels, then running the engine low on oil is not good & can contribute to timing chain issues detailed above.

This H series of engine in 2.0, 2.5 & 2.7litre capacities is a great thing.
A bit fuel thirsty, but economy was not as critical when this engine was designed in the mid 1990s.
The timing chain arrangement is a bit more complicated than it really needs to be, but should last 150-200,000km if the car is serviced regularly.
Genuine oil filter is worth the peace of mind & quality 10W-40 oil, changed 10,000km max intervals. Australia is hot, Adelaide is hot & sand work = hot, 5W is IMHO a little on the thin side.

No reason to offload the car if it is sounding fine at the moment & it gets serviced.
Rgs, Michael

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 9:15 am 
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I'm pretty happy indeed with the feedback.

We (my daughter mainly) just peaked out when told we had a grenade about to die a horrible expensive death.

It sounds like eff all to me - like I said, a tinkle, maybe, on startup and a clicky lifter just before this service but sounds lovely, to me, when it's done it's coldstart bounce then when the fan roar stops like a sewing machine... My confidence in the mechanic who I have known for 40 years is shaken in this case. I think we will keep it, it will serve brilliantly as an Adelaide car with the capacity for my daughter to go for a camp or find some surf or drive anywhere in Oz... Selling it was our first reaction because no way is it worth throwing another 3.5k at it. Sounds like we are getting very bad advice regarding what the repair is too, as no way does it need three new chains and tensioners when it appears to be a weakness with one tensioner only in most cases and a relatively direct repair paying attention to the sealing compound and clearly explained method of assembly.

I really need to get my daughter to use this site, there is no substitute for direct knowledge and a little bit of ignorance in our case has caused a lot of needless stress.

The car is my daughters first car, Atari4x4 has a lot to do with why we chose it and while she has tipped money into the car it has a fully rebuilt engine and now, new tyres, brakes, radiator, shocks, Pro racks and other consumables. It's tight and very capable on or off road and Auto so perfect as far as I'm concerned... Only issue is the inhibitor switch which is failing - no reverse lights, sometimes trouble starting, seems only a genuine part available and a lot of effort to get at and replace it so high quotes... We'll make a decision but my daughter has uni and low income to consider so enough tangential comment from me.

Thanks to all from my daughter who has read all this now, she feels a lot less stressed about it now.

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Vehicle: Suzuki Swift

Post Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:17 pm 
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I would have thought this would be a bigger deal than it is. Luckily there are more knowledgable peope around here.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 4:12 pm 
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It's a great forum, the knowledge base here is second to none.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 4:15 pm 
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The inhibitor switch is a common issue with AW-4 autos. It’s sometimes associated with oil leaks soaking them. Mine is flaky- some minor cable adjustment might be enough to rectify it for you.

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