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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2021 10:19 am
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Vehicle: 1989 Suzuki Sierra JX

Post Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2024 1:22 pm 
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Gday Zookers,
So to start with, yes I have used the search function up the top, and whilst there’s a lot of good info already on this subject I can’t find exactly what I’m looking for.

I have a SJ50 WT (with a sj70 rear axle apparently ) and I would like to know how to make my Zook ride and flex better specifically for my setup. Mainly wanna know about rear as I already plan to do RUF conversion.
I’m running 2” EFS front and rear springs (the constant load ones I believe I’ll know for certain tonight)
Ultima Shocks

In the back of the car I have a fridge, second battery, a drawer, recovery equipment, sometimes a tent and other camping stuff.
And even though it had that extra weight, it’s bumpy and rough as hell, and when I flexed it up the other day, no matter how much I flexed it I count get it to fully tuck, and nowhere near the bump stop. So I looked into taking a leaf out the rear, and I’ve never done it before so I wanted to ask which leaf, and how many, to take out.

Same question with the shocks, I’ve heard and seen comments regarding Hiace shocks but idk… what shocks do youse recommend? *suitably long travel if possible* and yea, any advice would be greatly GREATLY appreciated

Chappie

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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm
Posts: 12754
Location: Melbourne

Post Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2024 7:47 am 
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That's normal for EFS. They're too tall/stiff.

I haven't pulled EFS packs apart to tell you which leaf to remove, but normally start with the bottom spring which is the "overload" - this will generally stop the pack going flat and reaching the bump stop.

The risk though is if you derate too far it will blow through to the bumpstops and be harsh anyway.

Why do you need a "long travel" shock? with leaves that fit in standard mounts and stock shackles there's normally only a tiny bit of extra droop with the shocks removed and as the shocks are inboard of the spring they generally don't fully extend when flexing anyway. I would always recommend OME for a bolt in application but I believe they are getting hard to find. They are well valved for a Sierra.

You have lots of weight in the rear and the rear roll stiffness is much higher than the front due to spring spacing - the car will follow the rear, especially when climbing. Chasing more rear travel is pretty futile, it will make effectively no difference to the behaviour of the car as you can't significantly reduce roll stiffness without major fabrication.

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Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:53 pm
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Location: Northcliffe, W.A.
Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.

Post Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 1:19 am 
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I have Blupac rear springs which are exactly the same as EFS, just rebranded. I used the top 3 leafs with a flat single leaf out of an LJ80 front pack as the overload. This was fine in an unloaded car and gave a vastly improved ride over my sagged out original springs. I think this worked out to be roughly 1" of lift over the sierras original (non sagged) ride height.

The second time we took the Sierra traveling I added a rear leaf to each side to give it a bit more height/sit level loaded. From memory I used leafs from an original sierra rear pack that I recambered in a press. When traveling it's similar load to yours with the drawers/fridge ect. It's great on high speed gravel and through wombat holes ect but a bit stiff empty.

Originally I used the factory rear shocks but they shortly died. My ultima rear shocks were utterly horrendously stiff. Now it has a pair of factory MQ triton rear shocks which are still on the stiff side but much better than the ultimas. I didn't pick the triton shocks, they just landed in my lap and were the right length/mounts. As part of fitting the long range tank I had to make a shock relocation bar which would reduce the stiffness of the shocks a bit. The Gabriel shocks I have in my LJ are a nice soft valving but that's commodore rears, not the hiace shock. I have no experience with those but I'd be keen to hear your thoughts if you go that way.

Mine flexes pretty well for what it is, it is more compromised towards being a touring vehicle than a weekend fun toy/competition vehicle. It doesn't settle on the rear bumpstops when flexing but it will touch them on rough roads/big bumps. It's fantastic on high speed dirt roads, we cruised at 90km/h on The Gibb and Great Central Road when a lot of other vehicles were reduced to a crawl. You need to have a compromise goal in mind. You can have super soft flexy leafs but it's going to roll around on the road, get bottomed out on big hits and have fairly short spring life. Or you can have machine that takes a load like a champ but punishes you unloaded and flexes like a brick. Like most things, the extreme end of each compromise results in a 1 trick pony.

I've built up a few leaf packs for various vehicles. It really is a trial and error process and often takes a few goes to get right, sometimes a little short leaf on the bottom makes a big difference in ride height. When you bend the spring clamps out to get the leaf pack apart don't bend them back in until you're happy with the leaf otherwise they fatigue. Also some people cut them off, I've done this and I'd only really recommend it if you were chasing every last little bit of travel out of it and weren't concerned about spring life. They really make the springs more reliable (don't splay out) and less likely to bend a main leaf. Overload leafs are important as they prevent/limit axle wrap and thus make the spring last longer, the standard EFS overloads are wayyyyy to thick for a Sierra though.

I'd take the shocks out and go for a drive, if it's still rough as guts you know it's needs the springs derated. If it's smooth then you know you need to chase shocks. Based on my experience the ultimas suck but those leafs will be stiff too.

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