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| Run in procedure http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9777 |
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| Author: | zookprojectfnq [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | Run in procedure |
Ok so I rebuilt a G13b and put it in my zook. It got new rings bearings seals, VRS kit . the head decked, ported and polished and the valve seats and valves re cut. The crank and cam were linnished. Block honed. Rings were replaced with chrome ones. Its going in for a carby overhaul and tune on friday Ive had the motor running in the car at idle for about 40 mins. How long or what break in procedure should I follow. When should the first oil change be. |
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| Author: | MacDaddy [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Run in procedure |
Sounds like a nice engine 
When i bought my first 1L Sierra, brand new, they said that short bursts at high speed/high revs, under load, helps run the engine in and loosens it up... Because of the tight engine, Oil changes are more frequent, normally half the normal oil change period, but that would depend on how many kms you do in it, and use a good or high quality oil ! 
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| Author: | 31zook [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Run in procedure |
If you keep it at a constant speed it will not bed in the ring's as well... change at about 2-3hundred then go hell for leather 
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| Author: | DMAC [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Run in procedure |
This will help had excactly the same question.
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... 64&start=0 |
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| Author: | JrZook [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Run in procedure |
zookprojectfnq wrote: Ive had the motor running in the car at idle for about 40 mins. How long or what break in procedure should I follow. When should the first oil change be.
Unfortunately not the best way to start running in an engine. Needs to be loaded up and speed always fluctuating (accelerating and decelerating) to put pressure on the rings/bore. The rough crosshatching on the bore is whats responsible for biting into the rings. Once the roughness of the hatch has worn there is no more bite which leads to glazing and blowby. 40mins at idle the engine has barely produced any descent combustion temps and it can't really burn out the crap inside them. Was it at least fast idle? ~1500rpm? Either which way I can see the temptation of firing up your new engine straight away but really wait for your carb to be rebuilt and then take it out on the road and give that engine some load! Dan |
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| Author: | matty87 [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Run in procedure |
Jr zooks got it. i will add drive it like you intend to drive it for the duration of its life, we have found that this has worked for 3 generations of farm vehicles that have been driven like they are stolen. there is no point babying the thing if you intend to flog it go hard early and break the bits that may be likely to break early. |
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| Author: | BlueSuzy [ Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Run in procedure |
Standard suzuki recomendations from new says: Drive initial 1000kms, oil change/filter. Every 10,000kms oil change/filter. 10w40 It says under my bonnet 
I have never run in an engine. my lowest km car was 70k! But.. I have worn out 2 engines..
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