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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:57 am 
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so have test fitted the 34" jt2's with the new suspension setup and we are getting some good flex but we are hitting on the chassis in both of the following pics so think will go for 50mm wheel spacers

this is ontop of the already huge wheel offset.

what do you fellas think?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:05 am 
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and here is a comparison of the new vs the old but more importantly to detail the offset on the rims.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:06 am 
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put wt diffs in it mate it gives ya heaps more clearance

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:09 am 
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What exactly are the plans??? What is going on the frame? Engine/body???Yahh go for WT diff housings or Hilux...
Flipping rims could give you more just look at brendans zook on here he has his flipped and pushed out to the max.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:13 am 
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v.w.dave wrote:
What exactly are the plans??? What is going on the frame? Engine/body???Yahh go for WT diff housings or Hilux...
Flipping rims could give you more just look at brendans zook on here he has his flipped and pushed out to the max.


Did you even look at the pics? His rims are at max offset :roll:

Seconded on the WT diffs.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:16 am 
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v.w.dave wrote:
What exactly are the plans??? What is going on the frame? Engine/body???Yahh go for WT diff housings or Hilux...
Flipping rims could give you more just look at brendans zook on here he has his flipped and pushed out to the max.


it is a tray back chassis so you would assume that a ute cab and some sort of
tray is going on it. :roll:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:21 am 
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I don't know the frames that well yet I knew they were Zook diffs. I just don't know them with there skins off.

No they are not pushed out all the way have a look at brendans then you will see how far they can go. You can get atleast 2" more out of them.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:30 am 
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v.w.dave wrote:
I don't know the frames that well yet I knew they were Zook diffs. I just don't know them with there skins off.

No they are not pushed out all the way have a look at brendans then you will see how far they can go. You can get atleast 2" more out of them.


you really do talk out of your arse a bit dont ya. :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:57 am 
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Wheel spacers would be the ezy way too fix it but if you have the know how go for WT diffs :P :wink:
Oh and it looks like the project is coming along nicely yous are building this for mud guts and glory aye??????

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:06 am 
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shep wrote:
v.w.dave wrote:
I don't know the frames that well yet I knew they were Zook diffs. I just don't know them with there skins off.

No they are not pushed out all the way have a look at brendans then you will see how far they can go. You can get atleast 2" more out of them.


you really do talk out of your arse a bit dont ya. :wink:


Can you type a bit more muffled? He may not understand clear english if arse-talk is his native tongue :D

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:10 am 
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having run flipped rims for a long time I can assure you that there is fack all more that you could move those centers if any. they are already flipped to the max
petes dead right dave.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:06 pm 
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Once you get the clearance issue sorted with WT diffs or spacers get rid of those crap JT's. They are useless for anything except mocking up a build.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:25 pm 
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thanks for the replies fellas.

Yes it is a trayback the cab is going back on with a baleno 1.6 in the front to keep the nose down :D.

Thos rims are flipped and at max offset could not get anymore out of them.

We are going to fab up some kind of bent tube framed tray with checkerplate infill. What ya recon?

And fit in there somewhere a custom fuel tank. may put a tool box and a spare tyre on the back for weight help with keeping thos back wheels on the ground.

Also tossing up whether to move the radiator to the tray or even add a second one on the tray for mud runs etc.



I shall do a search on fitting the Wt diffs to our bus but is there much too it? What sorta price is reasonable to pay for them?

Dont ya like Jt's what do ya recomend?

And yeah this truck is being built for mud guts and general playing around

Hopefully the boys will get a bit more done on it while im up in singapore im just itching to put the motor in it.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:32 pm 
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putting wt diffs in is easy all i had to do was buy a few red slushy's and ball did it for me :lol:

bogfrog has a great step by step wt diff conversion write up around here
some where. your build is looking good so far mate but i would do something
with ya chassis soon before it rusts away. :wink: keep the photos coming.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:37 pm 
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ok cool ill do a search for it. and ill try keeping the photos up to ya. and actually the chassis has hardly any rust in it at all, all that stuff that looks like rust is acctually brown clay from twenty years on a southwest farm and ten of those without a wash :D

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:44 pm 
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haha yah fuck washing them.

found it
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=5293

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:57 pm 
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here is Bogfrog's NT to WT diff swap... http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=5293

edit: arrgh crap, shep beat me to it!!

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Last edited by atari4x4 on Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:13 pm 
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thanks fellas looks pretty straight forward. now to try source some diffs. whats a fair price in your educated oppinions?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:13 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
here is Bogfrog's NT to WT diff swap... http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=5293


Too slowwww :lol:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:49 pm 
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matty87 wrote:
thanks fellas looks pretty straight forward. now to try source some diffs. whats a fair price in your educated oppinions?

$300-$500 depending on condition for a pair of complete WT diffs is fair.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:55 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
here is Bogfrog's NT to WT diff swap... http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=5293


Too slowwww :lol:


yeah i know, i should do less work & more surfing... 8)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:37 pm 
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matty87 wrote:

Dont ya like Jt's what do ya recomend?

And yeah this truck is being built for mud guts and general playing around


If it's being built for mud you can't go past Silverstone MT117 Extremes or Simex Extreme Trekker Centipedes.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:52 pm 
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want33s wrote:
matty87 wrote:

Dont ya like Jt's what do ya recomend?

And yeah this truck is being built for mud guts and general playing around


If it's being built for mud you can't go past Silverstone MT117 Extremes or Simex Extreme Trekker Centipedes.


We did look at both of those. But for 1800 moneys for four tyres with 95% and 4 bead locked rims for a landcruiser stud pattern we thought that it was a good deal.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:31 pm 
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You might gain clearance if you change to SPOA setup.

I would limit the lenght of that buggy leaf by half or the car will hop all over the place. Or better yet seeing that your at the beginning of your build just replace the sierra springs and get rid of the buggy leaf and put in some hilux springs or similar that are longer and will behave more predictably.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:59 pm 
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canberramav
we not to worried about hight as in clearace from the ground to the lowest point on the car more trying to beat the wheels hitting on the chassis when flexed up. and also on the front springs when at full lock.

i can see how going spring over will help with this but its alot more pissing about to do that and requires highstear setup etc than getting spacers or w/t diffs.

and those rear springs you see consist of the rear springs from my 2006 model hilux and are nearly twice the length of the zuk ones and the 3/4 eliptical (the one upside down that you call a buggy spring i think) is the original main leaf from the zuks rear leaf pack. The front springs have been changed to springs from some unknown vehicle, they are 3 inches wide and far longer than standard we had to extend the chassis by 2 and a bit inches and move the mount down 2 inches also.

The reason for the 3/4 eliptical is that when the body is on and the tray with a bit of weight it will sit down flat on the upside down leaf when on the flat ground but drop one of those wheels in a rut and it will just all open up like a slinky.

From prelim tests its looking like the money shot.

correct me if im wrong or have missed anything? Im still learning about all this stuff.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:30 pm 
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this is my lwb. spring under with wt diffs, i reckon it flexes ok :wink:
i get full lock on the stearing through all the suspension movement exept at
full compression when it touches the headlight bucket thing.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:37 pm 
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actually with those big tyres ya might be better off doing a jimbo jones to it. :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:48 pm 
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that looks sweet shep.

what is a jimbo jones?

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:56 pm 
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jimbo's car.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... sc&start=0
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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:07 am 
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that thang looks mean. looks like it would roll over backwards befor it went over sidways haha. after looking at his build up thats an epic job plus we only got little 34" tyres hahaha.

personally im doin this build to show up a few guys in there tricked out cruisers and because the little ute was just going to waste on the farm before we started, its served us well so i thought id give the old girl who is actally called james haha a second lease on life and make chasing roos round the farm a heap more fun hahah.

anyway back on topic if i was to go against all your good advice and go for say 2" wheel spacers what if anything should i be looking out for other than the obvious good supply of wheel bearings? is there anything that i may have overlooked being reletivly new to the game of epic car modification? :D

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