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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:52 am 
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i reckon ya might need to consider wt (or lux) diffs and then wheel spacers as well. they look like wide tyres. unless ya live in vic you will be able to outdrive
pretty much every other 4wd on the planet when you are rolling on 31" tyres.

$875us$ will get ya 2 diff locks and a set of 6.5 trans gears add them to a good set of tyres and a sierra is virtually unstoppable. mine will drive up a tree until it falls over :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:10 am 
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$875 us for the gears and two diff locks where from? ill send ya a pm shep

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:49 am 
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happy shopping :lol:
http://lowrangeoffroad.com/samurai.htm

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:06 pm 
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Hi mate

Sorry didnt realize you had changed the springs.

I though possibly you would gain distance from the chassis with a SPOA. I realize it would probably be minimal but sometimes its all you really need. If your going to bother changing the diffs over then i would upgrade from the zook ones while you have a good oppurtunity to do so.

Im not really convinced on the buggy leaf setup though. I would rather sacrifice wheel travel for vehicle predictability if that makes sense.

Ive had my suzuki in nearly every configuration possible or have driven one. Long springs and low COG is the way to go. Avoid gimmicks such as buggy leaf and banana shackles would be my advise.

My 2 cents anyway.

Heres a pic of mine a few years ago before i went nuts on it. THis is SPUA and hilux springs all around. This is on zook WT diffs and big offset wheels.Image

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:07 pm 
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Actually i lied/

The picture is Hilux rears and RUF.

I later went to hilux all around with reverse shackle. If your at the building stage i would highly recommend a reverse shackle arrangement.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:37 pm 
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Ah k that looks pretty sweet mate.

I do appreciate the advice we may still just go back to the hilux springs without the 3/4 in there im not really the driving force behind suspension geometry on this truck i just do the reasearch and feed it to them to help with there dicisions. and i do agree with ya on the whole swag to lux diffs asap but we can get a set of w/t diffs in good nick for $250 where as lux diffs over here in the west are rarer than hens teath well there not really but going by the price you would think they were at not less than 600 for a pair everyone wants em ya see. its a budget build because we are still poor students and we have a bit to spend on gearing etc so trying to keep costs in check where we can.

By reverse shakle do you mean thet if they were at the back put them at the fron and so on?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:47 pm 
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Reverse shackle is putting the shackle at the rear of the front springs. Reverse shackle seems to soak up the impact dramatically when hitting obstacles.You may get some dive on the car under braking but i have never really found this to be the case.

Look into using MK/MQ diffs which are easy to use in a SPUA application. Otherwise look into 60 series diffs. These are also easy to use. Best of all these parts can be found cheap. I wouldnt be surprised if you found a whole MK/MQ for around $800.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:12 pm 
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It sound like the wide track axles are the go for you. You may even want to think about a panhard rod in the back. By the look of your pictures you may have excessive side movement in relation to the springs and chassis. A panhard would/may minimise this issue and help with tyre rubbing on the chassis, In the rear at least

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:19 pm 
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will look into it mav

and yeah we actually already set up the front springs like that so good to know we did something right :D

and with regards to a panhard rod we will prolly put one in coz there is shite loads of sidways movment at the back.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:25 pm 
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You really wont be getting far with nt axles/cv's on 34s :?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:35 pm 
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are W/T axels and cv's stronger?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:57 pm 
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You can buy stronger aftermarket cv's and axles for a wt.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:34 pm 
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matty87 wrote:
are W/T axels and cv's stronger?

yes and you can get heaps of spare parts and after-market bits for them.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:20 am 
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ah k thanks for that guys. yeah i knew ya could get the cromoly gear for the w/t's which will be sweet. i thought for a minute that they were stronger gear standard which i hadnt heard before.

with the cromoly axels and cv's (now i could go to my materials book and work this out for myself but im lazy) how much harder are they to break?

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:56 am 
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It's not just material improvements that increase the strength of Chromo CV's- it's design - the CV is MUCH larger and the inner axles are 26 spline, up from 22 spline. You won't break them with 34's.

In the rear, the upgrade to Chromo is a material upgrade only, so it's about a 30% strength increase. This might or might no be enough.

In any case, the axle/chassis contact problem is due to a heap of factors:

You don't have bumpstops or shocks in it yet.
You have a scarypointless 3/4. You are going to be in a world of axlewrappingfloppycrap if you put that on a track. You'll want to get the 3/4 right down on the chassis rail on compression. De rate the main springs, and put some bumpstops in it. You want the car sit right down to remain stable when flexed. I've built a couple of 3/4 rears and they work but they can be a bit floppy. The idea is to get the tyre over the top of the chassis, not onto it. You might still have some contact, and the tray mount will have to come off near the tyre, but that's going to hard to avoid unless you make the car super wide.

Here's a couple of pics. Note how far the compressed tyre is above the chassis:

Image

Image


Also, you'll note you have no load on the car so the main springs aren't moving at all, all the flex is in the 3/4 leaf, and that's taking your roll centre sky high and therefore tucking the tyre into the chassis.

On all accounts, get rid of the NT axles, but do some proper setup work to give it a fighting chance.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 4:13 am 
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thanks steve that is very useful info for us. we are going to mount that 3/4 properly by removing what it is currently mounted to(the original bump stop mount) and do something very similar to the setup in your second pic.

and will fiddle with it untill we get the 3/4 to sit flat up against the rail when on the flat, were also thinking about setting up a system such that we can capture the 3/4 and fix it so it cant open up for faster sections of a track etc.

with regards to the tray mount i agree we will have to remove them. i am going to fab uf a tray for it so i can start that after all the required changes to the chassis have been cmpleted.

and thanks for the pics they are good to help sorting things out in my head. thats what i though i was trying to achive was to get the wheels to go up past the rails and not hit them. i think that given the width of our tyres we will need to atleast go to w/t diffs.

thanks for chiming in you have both confirmed some of my suspisions and steared me in the right direction on others

cheers
matt

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:16 am 
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you boys are slowly getting there looks like you will have good set up zook hopefully by the time its finished with all the info and the team you guys have should have it done in no time and out on the trails :)

ill be looking foward to see where use are off to next... i do no one thing those WT diffs are coming your way very soon :)

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:31 am 
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shweeeet

yeah we'll get her together in no time once we start on it hahha just dont wanna go of half cocked so trying to do the research. i recon we nearly there

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 6:16 am 
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yeh thats good aye we will have to go out for a run once both of the rigs are up and running.

mine wont be for a lil while tho i think im just gonna do it see how its goes then if its shit try something else, lil bit of trial error i have done a bit of research and what im doin should work pretty well but things are never gonna be identical to how some one else performs so im ready for tweeking process after its all back together :)

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:45 pm 
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reviving my old thread to save starting a new one.

so guys going to either chop the front guards to get the 34" tyres in there with the amount of flex we are going to have. or remove them altogether

what do ya recon chop the guards?
or
remove and weld in some tube to give it strength and go for the real comp look?

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:29 am 
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as brodie said, got the WT diffs, and thanks to mrrocky got a pair of spare JTs, bushes for the rears are sorted, will swing past coastals and suzi store this week

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