[seank]

Hi all I have a 95 sierra and want to change the pads and rear shoes, having never done this before is it straight forward to do any tricky bits?
cheers

[reeceh]

The only tricky bit would be finding motivation lol

[seank]

So true lots of gunnas very little action

[reeceh]

its a very easy job mate if you have the right tools.

[nato78]

reeceh wrote:

its a very easy job mate if you have the right tools.

Even easier with a good workshop manual as well, Haynes make a good one

[Teracis]

nato78 wrote:

reeceh wrote:

its a very easy job mate if you have the right tools.

Even easier with a good workshop manual as well, Haynes make a good one

I'm pretty sure I used the downloadable one when I did mine, everything I needed to know was in there.

Just print it so you don't get the pc dirty!

[CompTruck]

is there a tip to getting the drum back over the new pads? my handbrake was disconnected so that wast effecting it. ended up putting the old ones back in. yet to change them lol

[Teracis]

CompTruck wrote:

is there a tip to getting the drum back over the new pads? my handbrake was disconnected so that wast effecting it. ended up putting the old ones back in. yet to change them lol

Did you follow the manual?

Got to make sure you adjust everything back to the start positions. Also, I can't remember if I had to squeeze the piston together or not because I pulled it apart (so obviously squeezed it back together when putting it together)

I also used rubber grease on all the rubber crap (boots e.t.c) to keep it fresh and get it back together.

[CompTruck]

nar didnt use manual. might check it out for next attempt

[boostedbrick]

Ill write this up for the next person who searchs...


On the rear.
Jack it up and chock the front wheels. Put it on stands if you have them.
Have a beer
Remove wheel, 5 bolts
Remove 4 nuts of the drum
Release handbrake
Remove drum
Have a good look where everything sits, there is two different shoes on each side.
More beer
These next steps can be done however you feel.
Remove the single lower spring
Remove small spring at the top
Remove big spring at the top
Useing some pliers and skill, twist the pins in the shoe retainers and remove the front springy metal thing
Beer
Remove shoes
Clean everything
Replace shoes
Useing more skill and pliers, re attach springy metal thing and pin.
Reattach bottom spring
Reattach Larger upper spring
Reattach small upper spring
At this point, confirm the self adjusting hand brake is unadjusted.
Replace drum, this may require some playing around the get the shoes in the correct spot.
More beer.
Replace wheel
Repeat on the other side
Play with brakes to adjust self adjusting handbrake.

[steak_knife]

Nice fix on the exhaust Mr Boost...

[boostedbrick]

On the front.

Jack it up, put it on stands and pull the handbrake on.
Remove front wheels
Have a bourbon, cos the beer isnt strong enough
There is 2 bolts on the back of the caliper, remove these. One is a prick as it requires the use of a spanner.
Sit caliper up ontop of shock mount, if your brake line is long enough
Remove the two bolts that are now holding your pads/bracket in
This bit you can work out for your self, the pads are held there with metal clips. Abit hard to explain with out a picture. Just swap the pads over. If you require new clips, they can be had from Suzistore.
Then return this unit to the axel and bolt it up.
Stick your caliper back on, bolt it up.
Have a beer.

And now is probally a good time to bleed your brakes and have a vodka redbull as a reward for a job well done..

[boostedbrick]

steak_knife wrote:

:lol: Nice fix on the exhaust Mr Boost...

It didnt leak any more

[buzbox]

Did you have a look in the Good tech section?

There might be some very slight differences between Vit and Sierra but the same process is for pretty much any car with drum brakes.

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=19978

[seank]

thanks everyone for the advice feel safe in having a go instead of paying the $400 the local mech wanted
cheers and have a beer on me

[seank]

just a question do i need to bleed if i dont remove any lines?
Ah another great start in tassieland mister starter motor decided not to wake up had to give him a bash , have changed them in a hz are they easy to do in the zuki?

[boostedbrick]

Dont need to bleed it.. But it couldnt hurt.

[TasRat]

The above instructions are good, I ve done mine recently and had no real problems.
Some tips

Wear safety glass when putting springs on & off

the auto adjuster will make drum replacment impossible, if not reset, on the pics above its the thick metal plate with a hook that the right hand shoes slips over up the top. Once the shoes are on & before the big spring is on its easy to move with plyers, it will move the shoes inwards so they dont hit the drum when you fit.

There are a couple of grease points where the shoes rub on the back plate,

Don't blow out with compressed air the dust may be toxit asbstos has been used in shoes

If you have a mate with some experience (any car) ask for help.

Take your time and take pics of each step for your own reference

[CompTruck]

ah that maybe why mine wouldnt go on. i thought the handbrake adjuster was on the cable or something. so figured with the cable not hooked up it wouldnt be a concern. couldnt see any adjustment on that metal bit but.

how does it work exactly?

[Teracis]

CompTruck wrote:

ah that maybe why mine wouldnt go on. i thought the handbrake adjuster was on the cable or something. so figured with the cable not hooked up it wouldnt be a concern. couldnt see any adjustment on that metal bit but.

how does it work exactly?

One part of it has some teeth which move through a hole there somewhere, would need to pull one apart to take pics so unless someone has some?

Have a play with the part while it's apart, you'll soon work out that if you set it on the first tooth and then actuate it all it ratchets out to adjust the pads. You want it set on the absolute beginning first so then it's easy to put the drum back on!

[boostedbrick]

If the springs are fitted, just stick a flat head into where you can see the grooves.

Just poke round till you find the spot.

[TasRat]

On the pics in this thread you will see the cylinder up the top
Below that is the bit I'm talking about - the metal plate, it has a rivet that the right hand side pivots on, it has teeth on it that locks it in adjusted place. further to the right and part of the pivoting bit is the hook that locates in the shoe. Grab the hook bit with plyers and twist to left, the teethed part will go inwards and the shoe will shrink. Only did it the maorning - should have taken pics

[Che]

I have just put some new rotors and pads on mine, now I can't get the brake calipers back on as with the new beef it's too thick!



What now?

[mnemonix]

Grab a brake caliper clamp and push the caliper piston back in to its rest position.
Use a gclamp if thats all you have on hand. Just make sure you centre it to save it jamming in the bore.

[Jasen]

Or if ur careful I just use some multi-grip pliers and the old pad on the piston. Just gently squeeze the piston back flush with the caliper. Just make sure u don't have a full fluid reservior - it will overflow.