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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:08 pm 
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g'day guys I've just bought a red suzuki sierra jx (89).
the previous owner fancied himself a bit of a mechanic and has told a few porkies to sell the car. putting all this behind i need to fix a few problems and could use some help.

The engine is a 1.3 g13a and has alot of vacum lines that have either been blocked off or just broken off. I need to find a diagram of what goes where. I believe it is the factory carby.

Second problem is there is considerably more wiring floating around in the engine bay than is necissary and i need to get a wiring diagram so i can repair and neaten what i can.
Any help would be appreaciated.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:16 pm 
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You should be able to find a manual here
http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

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Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:19 pm
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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:35 pm 
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You might find a service manual here.
Service Manuals

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:43 pm 
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Barney wrote:
You might find a service manual here.
Service Manuals


my computer would not download any of these manuals?
thanks for the quick feedback so far guys. It used to be i could serch this stuff on google now all i get is spam spam and more spam

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 12:37 am 
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This is the one I downloaded.

SJ413 Service Manual

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:25 am 
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thanks that downloaded and was very helpful.

A new problem has arisen.
when going on long drives the car started over heating. it dosent even pause half way it just gets higher.
since then i have replaced all raqdiator hoses, the thermostat, the water pump. correctly fitted the timing belt which was retarded two teeth. but today it did the same thing and there are no visible leaks. any ideas?

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Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:18 pm
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Location: Lightning Ridge NSW
Vehicle: SJ40 - LJ50 - LJ50V - Vitara

Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:32 am 
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Not wanting to state the obvious but have you given the radiator a good flush and seen if that improves things? Also get the radiator cap tested.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:42 am 
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sorry, i have also replaced the radiator cap and tested the thermostat in a saucepan on the stove (i compared the new and the old one they both opened at the same time).
have also run the garden hose forward and backward through the radiator.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:43 am 
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Is it loosing fluid at all?

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:47 am 
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once it gets hot it loses fluid past the cap into the bottle and bubbles a little (which i take to be normal radiator cap function) apart from that it does not appear to lose fluid.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:51 am 
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bubbles is bad

after it gets hot and bubbles, if you leave it to cool down is it hard to start and runs rough then clears up?

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:52 am 
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The only way to correctly unblock a radiator is to take it to a rad shop and bust it open. Flushing it with a garden hose will generally do 2/3's of stuff all :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 3:54 am 
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no it starts perfect every time, runs very well. it just over heats. there is no oil in the coolant or water in the oil. by bubbles i mean the water has reached the preasure required to pass the radiator cap and get into the overflow container where it hits boiling point breifly cause its not preassurised. thoose bubble. when the engine is cold with the cap off there are no bubbles.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:00 am 
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sounds like a proper radiator flush out at the rad. shop is overdue.

They will take the top tank off and manually clear the tubes by pushing a rod through each tube- but sometimes it is easier to bite the bullet and just get them to recore it- or even upgrade the radiator with an extra row of tubes for a bit more capacity.

stephen.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:08 am 
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Does it have a clutch fan? They can shit themselves (i.e. not lock up when they're suppose to)

How high is the radiator cap in these, do you need to blead them like modern cars? Air locks in the system can cause overheating...

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:16 am 
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Just curious, but can you see through all the fins ( looking at the radiator???


Pretty common after a couple of mud runs for the Radiator fins to be almost completely blocked....


try hosing the fins out (obviously with low pressure water thats not going to just bend them )

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:53 am 
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fins are all clear and not bent. im gonna do valve clearances this arvo and prob take the radiator in to get rodded out next week. cant think of anything else it could be.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:52 am 
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when i got the suzuki the coolant seemed very new. i suspect this was to cover up other problems. to the point when i start the car the fluid dosent appear to be moving? it only rises as i increase rpm. could this be a sign of a blocked radiator?

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:08 am 
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if the radiator is blocked with sediment and crap, I wouldnt be surprised if the engine block is the same.

coolant passageways can get clogged up pretty bad in the block, and are often forgotten about.

Three ways of cleaning a block out,

chemically- flush with a coolant additive which is either an acid or alcaline solution (which I have never been comfortable mixing with alloy cylinder heads)

ultrasonic cleaning- I think many radiator shops do this- simply put, sound waves shake loose the sediment in the block and head, I have never used it in engines but have with other stuff and found it works very well.

old school manual cleaning, (ideally done when engine is stripped down)- remove waterpump and all core plugs, and fit an old speedo cable to a rechargable drill and run it through all the openings you can while running water through the block. sounds dodgy (and is a bit :roll: ) but you would be horrified at the amount of hard sludge and crap that is loosened up in the block by doing this!

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 7:42 am 
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so i emptied the radiator and while the tubes directly under the radiator cap were clean, using a torch i could see the other tubes were full of s#@t. i am not sure its worth even getting cleaned out may just have to replace it. alot of corrosion all through it.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:33 am 
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often, that corrosion is just sediment, much like solidified mud and often able to be cleaned out- but sometimes the rodding out damages the tubes. not much can be done to prevent it- it just happens- remember, they are shoving a solid rod through very thin, fragile and old tubes to remove gunk that has been stuck for years.
Give your rad. shop a call- they can tell you what the difference is between a rodding out, a recore- or a core upgrade to something with more capacity- or if something from another car is a better option.

While you are on the phone to the rad. shop, ask them about cleaning out your engine block too- they might do the ultrasonic method.

the crew here might be able to help out too.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:28 am 
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the overheating problem is now solved with a good rodding out and a leak fixed in the heater core.

The tappets are makeing some noise however they are all well within adjustment according to the service manual. oil preassure appears to be ok my only other thought is that i have done a oil change on the car. i have used a penrite 15w60 semi synthetic oil, could this be the cause? or should i start looking else where

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