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az supporter
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:56 am
Posts: 235
Location: Toowoomba, QLD

Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:02 pm 
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So I found my tacho was reading about 3-400 RPM lower than the actual RPM, I couldn't find any resources to fix it other than a whole new instrument cluster.

Here is how I fixed it (pretty dodgy but it worked for me)

Step 1
Determine how far out your tacho is currently reading.

Mine was out about 350RPM at 2000RPM (take multiple readings at different RPM's for the best result...my analyser would break down above 3000, so I couldn't test high RPM accuracy for the tacho)

(NB. if your tacho is out by different amounts at different RPM, this method will not work, either pick the RPM you want displayed accurately, or buy a new Instrument cluster)

Image


Step 2
Remove instrument cluster from car

You have to let the steering column down to slide the instrument cluster past the hazard light switch.

2.a
Remove plastic cover from under dash

Image

2.b
Undo the two torx/large flathead screws that hold the steering column up.
(These are lock-tighted in from factory, I used the biggest flathead screwdriver I have with a wrench attached to the handle)

Image

2.c

Remove the four screws that retain the instrument cluster to the dash. Two on top and two underneath.
(you will need a stubby #2 phillips to get the ones on top, or fold the windscreen forward)

Image

2.d

Slide the instrument cluster forward and undo the plug on each side, and the speedo cable.
(You may have to hold the steering wheel down with one hand. The wiring loom plugs have a 'button' on the outside of each that must be pressed to remove them)

Image

You should now have the Instrument cluster free of the car.

Step 3.
Remove the plastic cover from the face of the Instrument cover

(If your trip meter reset button still has the 'knob' on it, this will likely have to be gently prised off, before you continue)

Remove the 8 screws that hold the 'front' of the cluster on

Image

Step 4.
'Calibrate' the tacho by bending the needle

Now to 'adjust' the tacho... note how far the needle has to travel between the displayed RPM and the actual RPM
(mine was 350RPM out, so about 6mm movement at the end of the needle)
you now very carefully move the needle by hand to the end of its range, until you feel it hit the 'stop' a few mm past 8000RPM

Now very, very carefully continue to twist the needle past this point, the number of mm it is 'out' by, that you previously noted, you will feel the very thin shaft that turns the needle bend.

(if you want to be accurate here (I guessed) put some masking tape under the 0RPM mark (where the needle rests) and mark the resting position, and mark above that a spot that is the distance (degrees) that the tacho is 'out' by.
Bend the needle with the above method, untill the needle 'rests' on the new mark)

(NB... don't bend the needle like in the pic. lay the dash flat and use your thumb and forefinger on the round bit in the middle, and your index finger to apply torque to the needle)
Image

Step 5.
Plug the wiring harness back into the instrument cluster, and start the car to see if your adjustment was successful.
If not, back to step 4.
If yes, unplug the harness again, and put the face of the cluster back on.
(Give it a clean while it's off)

Image

Step 6.
Put it all back together again!

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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:30 pm
Posts: 998
Location: Hobart

Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:07 am 
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Good write up, thank you.

Any idea if this will work with the speedo, mine rests under the 0km/h line by quite a bit, and it out 20km/h throughout the entire speedo range.

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Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm
Posts: 16343
Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:35 am 
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Brenno, given yours in engineered you might be better to get a new cluster and know it works... although im suprised they let you engineer it with a false reading speedo? mine had to be calibrated professionally (also had to show receipts).

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az supporter
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:56 am
Posts: 235
Location: Toowoomba, QLD

Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:26 pm 
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If the speedo is out 20kph through the entire range, thats nothing to do with gearing or engineering...

I didnt even look at the speedo, but i suspect it may work...

If it doesnt, then while the instrument cluster is out, it would be a good time to get a new one... you could just wack the colums bolts back in and drive to the wreckers. nothing to loose really... unless it breaks and you don't want to buy a new cluster i suppose :-)

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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:30 pm
Posts: 998
Location: Hobart

Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:56 pm 
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alien wrote:
Brenno, given yours in engineered you might be better to get a new cluster and know it works... although im suprised they let you engineer it with a false reading speedo? mine had to be calibrated professionally (also had to show receipts).


I suspect your engineer looked harder at the smaller items. This one really only cared about his ass on the line, thus made sure everything mechanical was good.

Not many down here, and I currently have a Drover Dash which has no tacho (and I want to keep it that way). Will pull it out and have a squiz.

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