[jonno_racing]

Ok so i just went to pick up my new G16B for my jimny with 160,000 on the clock..
Bom Bow crack in the block, under the inlet manifold, huge build up of coolant on the block.
The motor was fairly cheep but the guy selling it to me had no idea it had a crack there.
My question now is should i even bother with this conversion?
G16B's are common for cracking heads (sold one to a mate a while back, surprise surprise had a cracked head) and apparently blocks, in the long term are they all going to crack? i want reliability from my jimny to tour round aus, just starting to think i am not going to get it with the much loved G16B every one talks about??

Edit, i want a bit more power so i can tow a light weight camper trailer. and G13BB's have the same bloody problems.

[Fatzook]

Yep. Given that the G13BB suffers from exactly the same issues, you'll be no worse off with a G16B.

I've seen a few cracks in other peoples G16's, but I have owned 4 myself, and never had an issue. I'd say given their increasing age and mileage, there are more and more cases of cracked heads and blocks coming to light.

If you are worried, why not have a hunt around for a low kms 04 GV G16B.

[sideways]

Did they fix the cracking issues with the later G16s or something Pete? Or are you just basing that on least kms/newest is less likely to have issues?

Take some chemiweld and a crack isn't going to be an issue that will stop you.

[Fatzook]

sideways wrote:

Did they fix the cracking issues with the later G16s or something Pete?

Take some chemiweld and a crack isn't going to be an issue that will stop you.

Not that I'm aware of. But most of the G16's Ive seen with cracked blocks also have higher kms.

[sideways]

To quick Pete!

APV motor shouldn't be hard to find, dunno what they changed to fit it in the van though.

[jonno_racing]

I was under the impression they fixed the craking issues in the FWD versions???
This motor only had 160,000km on it, was cheep as chips at $350 tho.
Id prefer to never have to use chemiweld on anything. or have to carry it because of a shit motor design.
i have sold 2 G16B's in my time, one was ok in zukimosnters racing coily lwb thing and one to a mate, the one to a mate was cracked.
Hopefully i can get some better luck..

[droverdave]

There is a few complete baleno's on gumtree for under 500bucks.

[sideways]

jonno_racing wrote:

I was under the impression they fixed the craking issues in the FWD versions???
This motor only had 160,000km on it, was cheep as chips at $350 tho.
Id prefer to never have to use chemiweld on anything. or have to carry it because of a shit motor design.
i have sold 2 G16B's in my time, one was ok in zukimosnters racing coily lwb thing and one to a mate, the one to a mate was cracked.
Hopefully i can get some better luck..

I'd carry chemiweld because it might be the difference between having a cracked block out in the middle of nowhere that leaks all it's water out every 20kms or driving to the next city with no issues.

Prepare for every eventuality.

[alien]

check the engine number... if its g16a then it doesnt have as much webbing cast into the block and head... the g16b numbered ones have more webbing to be more resistant to cracking.

[royce]

Its a case of you get what you pay for, the newer the engine and lower km the more chance its been looked after and is good but you aren't going to get one cheap and you certainly aren't going to have many to chose from.

Otherwise be prepared to keep buying bits till you get a good setup, new head and late block should be fine, like I said before, 340000km on my block and its fine, a low km Baleno with good service history might give you what you want but you'll be paying for a good complete car that's worth nothing once you take the motor.

The other option is bite the bullet and get into an M powered jimny so you can swap in near new motors (that hopefully turn out better long term)

[datso]

I have a g16b from late 2000 baleno so far no problems and its in a more likely position to cause issues with cracking due to slanted into a carry van however its only been a year so far and I made extra strengthening webs in some areas to help its rigidity. The torque is superior and much easier to drive than the g13bb plenty of are under the curve allows easy acceleration in tall gears without down-shifting.

When I spoke to Mick from Suziworld in Heildeberg he personally told me the g16aid or whatever the APV have are prone to the same cracking and countless have come and gone through their workshop forcing them to change their minds from upgrading their work carry to the APV now due to other issues also. Something to take note is the G16a id could that mean same old g16a block but cast in indonesia since the APV is made there?
http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=MHYGDN71V00304467

There are a couple of J20a into sierra jimnys that I know of one few overseas and one local on links below
I have 4 sale a low km SX4 150hp, g16b gearbox, g16b flywheel, j20a flexplate for conversion using g16b flywheel.

http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forumvb/sho ... A-for-sale
http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=MHYGDN71V00304467

[PORL]

I would never put an engine with a cracked head or block into a car.
I did the g16b conversion and I think it's ace. So much better than the 13bb.
No issues so far with any cracking. If I did have an issue I would begin looking at a diesel conversion

[datso]

PORL wrote:

I would never put an engine with a cracked head or block into a car.
I did the g16b conversion and I think it's ace. So much better than the 13bb.
No issues so far with any cracking. If I did have an issue I would begin looking at a diesel conversion

Most people experience the g16 cracking after its in the car not likely anyone
would take the risk of knowingly putting in a cracked block!

Some earlier Chevy Vega Cosworth engines and other earlier all alloy engines had
similar cracking issues even when new but this was rectified before it happened by
strategically designed plates to stiffen the block to act as webbing. These plates were
designed by a Vega enthusiast not Chevy or Cosworth who should have.
From what I hear and seen the G16a and some early G16b crack where the starter
is and Ive yet to see anything that will remedy or strengthen this area to prevent it.

[jonno_racing]

Ok i have spoken to a mate who is a engine builder. he has had 3x cracked G16B blocks, apparently where they crack is a PIA to weld and if you do get a good weld it will crack next to the weld.
However they have had 100% success rate with doing a very clean and careful metal mend.
Only using the best quality (3bond brand is best apparently) and being 100% careful with the job, using wax and grease remover etc.

Some food for thought.

[KEENSY85]

jonno_racing wrote:

Ok i have spoken to a mate who is a engine builder. he has had 3x cracked G16B blocks, apparently where they crack is a PIA to weld and if you do get a good weld it will crack next to the weld.
However they have had 100% success rate with doing a very clean and careful metal mend.
Only using the best quality (3bond brand is best apparently) and being 100% careful with the job, using wax and grease remover etc.

Some food for thought.

Interesting

[datso]

Durafix is a low temp alloy welding rod that works better than metal mend with a cheap propane torch I would have thought, look up durafix on youtube its basically low temp alloy soldering. I used it on an alloy UN1 renault box for crack repairs as they are rare items for GT40 replica kit cars that cant afford the real thing.
Metal mending or Durafix will need complete bare block, tank dipped and by the time you finish you might as well do a later engine like the mentioned M or J series. Only issues I found is the M series boxes are not cheap compared to vitara G ones. I dont recall any of the G13b or G13a blocks suffering this problem and Ive never had issues with my previous g13bb and its all wrapped up just in case I need to go back to it but the G16b is night and day better so I cant imagine a 2 litre big block with 150hp and 135-140lbs of torque.

[Fatzook]

datso wrote:

but the G16b is night and day better so I cant imagine a 2 litre big block with 150hp and 135-140lbs of torque.

Kw & Nm please. We are in the civilised world

[PORL]

Lol ^^

[datso]

112kw and 100000000000000 NM - FIIK!

[sideways]

Us LJ owners damn near have to use HP to stay in double digits.

[303zuke]

sideways wrote:

Us LJ owners damn near have to use HP to stay in double digits.

33,000 Watts of Power and 109,600 inch pounds of Torque! That's how a 50 rolls!

[sideways]

I think you're over estimating your power by about 50% there 303.

I'd love to get the LJ Dyno'd and see how much power it makes, I'd be very surprised if it made any more than 25hp at the wheels!

[jonno_racing]

datso wrote:

Durafix is a low temp alloy welding rod that works better than metal mend with a cheap propane torch I would have thought, look up durafix on youtube its basically low temp alloy soldering. I used it on an alloy UN1 renault box for crack repairs as they are rare items for GT40 replica kit cars that cant afford the real thing.

believe it or not i have 5 sticks of durafix in the shed. i use it for welding ally Rc stuff.
could possibly doubble up... Durafix it and metal mend it.
i don't see a need to strip the block to do either of these. laying the motor on its side and cleaning the surface 100% will be fine imo due to it being a water leak not oil.

i dont wish to go to a J20 or anything else. the only reason i am going G16B is due to the simplicity of the conversion. using everything that's stock.

[KEENSY85]

Maybe a toyota engine conversion

[jonno_racing]

LOL.
well old mate has agreed to nearly give the G16B to me, no warranty obviously but at a price i cant say no. so i guess i will give it a crack worst that can happen as i end up in the same pace i am now but with the car converted to 1600..

[christover1]

I have often used cheap junk motors for conversions.
Helps get everything you need in order.
Including random parts that may not come with buying just an engine.
If happy, then it is easy to buy a low k import for it once your done.

My import G16 cost $1000 delivered to my door,
with a 12 mth warrantee, if new service items are fitted.

[royce]

jonno_racing wrote:

datso wrote:

Durafix is a low temp alloy welding rod that works better than metal mend with a cheap propane torch I would have thought, look up durafix on youtube its basically low temp alloy soldering. I used it on an alloy UN1 renault box for crack repairs as they are rare items for GT40 replica kit cars that cant afford the real thing.

believe it or not i have 5 sticks of durafix in the shed. i use it for welding ally Rc stuff.
could possibly doubble up... Durafix it and metal mend it.
i don't see a need to strip the block to do either of these. laying the motor on its side and cleaning the surface 100% will be fine imo due to it being a water leak not oil.

i dont wish to go to a J20 or anything else. the only reason i am going G16B is due to the simplicity of the conversion. using everything that's stock.

Coolant, not water.

At least grind the crack open to get to clean metal

[datso]

Great you use the stuff too.

Yep you best get the crack open and the stick nice and hot

[Fatzook]

sideways wrote:

I think you're over estimating your power by about 50% there 303.

I'd love to get the LJ Dyno'd and see how much power it makes, I'd be very surprised if it made any more than 25hp at the wheels!

Do modern dyno's read that low?

[jonno_racing]

Yeah i will grind the crack into a small V to make a much larger surface for the durafix and i plan on liquid welding about 40mm each side of the weld to make it more of a "patch"