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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:07 am 
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Has anyone recently bought tough dog jimny panhards? I bought a set and they have come out a flat green colour, i thought td were the zinc gold colour, also both my bars are straight, i also thought one had a slight bend in it

Have i been ripped off with a fake?

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:36 am 
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Just recieved confirmation that they are painting them a more oem colour

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:57 am 
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and no, you dont need a bend in them. and the bushes are much better then stock ones.
Image

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:31 am 
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Aah sweet, mine look like that but more of an ugly green! Ill have to throw a pic up

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:39 am 
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So green is "more OEM" than gold? Why don't they just paint the damn things black.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:27 am 
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Hey Cal,

Yep, I just bough a pair also. Baby sh!t green. Good product though.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:22 am 
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Jetstar wrote:
Hey Cal,

Yep, I just bough a pair also. Baby sh!t green. Good product though.


I'd be more concerned about the baby in this case.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:57 am 
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go cover them in mud? works for me

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 2:30 pm 
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where is a good place to buy them? i am not happy with my ora panhards

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:17 pm 
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOUGH-DOG-AD ... 6ab&_uhb=1
td rrp
TDPR-009 For 60mm, 80mm lift All models
$180 ea
TDPR-010 For 60mm, 80mm lift All models
$180 ea

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 9:10 pm 
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I got mine off ebay for 300 for both ;)

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 7:41 pm 
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Same, $300 for the pair from an local (Australian) ebay seller. Can't go wrong there.

Photos of the new dull green type below.


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Post Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:09 pm 
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what end do you have the adjuster on for the front? chassis or axle, i have mine at the chassis end and it seems to be hitting the diff housing, doesnt help having the ora bash guards on

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:26 pm 
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Front adjustment end chassis side. No clash with the diff housing. But the caster is a bit off where it should be which may come into effect.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:03 am 
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Do you have ora weld on diff guards? I think thats where most of my issue is. Ill see how it all looks after the alignments tomorrow, but after a quick drive i can see the rub from the lock nut on mu diff

I also have jb 3" arms too

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:21 am 
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i have jb front arms mine fits without the guard. can you trim the guard?.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:24 am 
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cal213 wrote:
Do you have ora weld on diff guards? I think thats where most of my issue is. Ill see how it all looks after the alignments tomorrow, but after a quick drive i can see the rub from the lock nut on mu diff

I also have jb 3" arms too



It will be because of the guard. Just flip the panhard around so the adjuster is at the axle end. I ran my like that for around a year cus I had the same issue with the panhard hitting the ORA guard

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:58 am 
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Was hoping you would reply monley, just went through your whole old thread!!! Ill flip it before i get my alignments!

Cheers, cal

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 11:58 am 
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I did the alignment myself. With regards to the panhard length anyway. The main thing this will do is get the front and rear wheels in line.

The thread teeth on the toughdog panhard are 3mm apart. You can rotate the end half a turn at a time, meaning that you can adjust the position 1.5mm at a time. Being that the panhard is on an angle at rest, this will actually end up being slightly less.

With wheels removed, axle housing on stands (not a jack) and the hubs as straight as they can be, equally, (and with the panhard installed), place a straight edge vertically, and through the wheel centre, against the wheel mount face of the rotor and measure the distance to the same point on the chassis on each side. This can be tricky because there is stuff welded to he chassis like spring/shock tower, body mounts etc. If one side is more than 1.5mm different from the other side, then do a quick calculation of how many multiples of 1.5mm it is out. Divide that by 2 and adjust the panhard that many half turns in the direction that will reduce this difference. Reapeat until equal or less than 1.5mm difference.

Edit: Take note of the final outage and on which side, and apply that to the other axle, so they are both offset the same side of centre.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:01 pm 
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Far out! I think ill leave it for the tyre shop! Haha. Ill keep that in mind though if i ever need a quick panhard alignment!!!

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:08 pm 
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Its not that hard really, just takes a little patience and very basic maths skills :)

This needs to be done before they do the steering arm because it will affect the central position of the pitman arm and steering wheel.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:33 pm 
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Good point. Hopefully they do them first. Or hopefully they do them at all!!!

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:54 pm 
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i just parked mine on flat ground, pulled out the old panhard, and put in the new one adjusting it and lining it up by eye.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:02 pm 
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Jezza86 wrote:
i just parked mine on flat ground, pulled out the old panhard, and put in the new one adjusting it and lining it up by eye.
This will get it close of course, and probably 'good enough', but unlikely to be exact.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:10 pm 
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just like when the suspension moves, or fatty boomba gets in the drivers seat. the car without weight may be aligned, but to be 'exact' yo would need to install it with the exact load you would expect to be carrying.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:54 pm 
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flipped my panhard, looks heaps better

Image

Image

Sorry for the iphone pics

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:21 pm 
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Jezza86 wrote:
just like when the suspension moves, or fatty boomba gets in the drivers seat. the car without weight may be aligned, but to be 'exact' yo would need to install it with the exact load you would expect to be carrying.
Good point, so best to have any discrepancy on the right. Depends on the springs though. Mine are quite stiff so compression would be negligible.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:10 am 
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Bugsta wrote:
Depends on the springs though. Mine are quite stiff so compression would be negligible.

OME jimny is between 26-30 newtons per mm movement or roughly 2.6-3kg/ mm
realy stiff springs might be 4kg/mm which means my heavy ass will make the car squat 6.25mm if im siting on the cup holder. if im in the drivers seat the right hand side might droop up to 8mm.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:40 pm 
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Jumping in with a quick question! We have just installed our 3" lift kit and TD adjustable panhards. We are hoping to do a quick adjustment ourselves before handing it over to get aligned professionally as it might take a couple of weeks to get that done.

Do you normally need to lengthen the front rod, and shorten the rear rod? Or lengthen both? Any rough idea would be great, we will try to follow Bugsta's guide as best we can, but just checking if we need to make them longer or shorter first. (Bit of a noob question, sorry).

Thanks!

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:13 pm 
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lengthen both
find a flat surface
get 2 light 60-80kg mates to sit in the car front seats
pull the old panhard
attach one end of the td panhard and leave the bolt loose
wind out the other end to the correct langth,
measure using s stringline and plumb from the sill of the car to he wheel hub left and right, make sure the axle is centeral with your mates in the cer, preferable not moving,
bolt up, tighten both bolts as much as you can.
tighten the lock nut, and locktite it on the panhard.

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