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5ierra
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 1645 Location: Ipswich
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Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 4:41 am |
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Highway-Star wrote: 5ierra wrote: Highway-Star wrote: 5ierra wrote: I carry prett minimal loads (even when camping) Bollocks! You carry a mobile carport!!!! I have one of Tanshi's CJ-7 front springs on the floor in the shed at the moment, have been playing with it and an LJ81 chassis. 5ierra your welcome to come over and have a look. I think I will be needing about 70-80mm extra distance between hangers on the chassis (working from 975mm Standard Suzuki rear). I say think, as I have the chassis dimensions of a CJ-7 but don't know the length of the standard Jeep shackles... Packs are of about 7 or 8 leaves (so ample to play with). Lift is hard to predict, though I am going to buy brand new standard heights for mine, which I think will give me vaguely 30-60mm lift... If they give me more I'll pull them out and reset them lower... 2" lifted and 4" lifted are also available but notably more costly (and taller than I want). 5 poles and a tarp is hardly a huge load I'll pop over on saturday if your not working? Its allot of effort to put up though! Working arvo/night as usual....
Ahh, alright, might have to make it sunday anywho. I'll text you and let you know.
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607CHA
az supporter
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:21 pm Posts: 265 Location: Baldhills
Vehicle: 02 jimny
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:32 pm |
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Hi guys new to this forum and search everywhere but can't find a answer to the stuff I'm typing in so I thought I'd post here.
I'm thinking of doing the ruf conversion have spring and 2inch extended shackles all ready to fit up. But have some concerns first is the steering rods binding up and getting to close for everyday use second I think the shock will hit the bump stop bracket. Need a solution have thought of redrilling the ubolt plates so the diff would remain closer to standard position but really wanted the extra wheelbase length. Another thing I considered was moving the front shackle eyes back 40-50mm and using the 2 inch shackles with stock front springs would this work the same without the issues of things hitting. Has anyone done this before.
_________________ LIVING LIFE ON THE EDGE, TILL YA ROLL
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BlueSuzy
az supporter
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 9696 Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:12 pm |
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Welcome!
There should be plenty of threads on ruf and how to's. Including shock remounting and steering binding issues.
With my 'ruf' i redrilled the spring hanger under the door back 25mm, and ran extended shackles on the front. My shocks touched the bumpstop mount but not enough to worry about. You can always trim it or completely remount it.
The steering wasnt an issue for me as i wasnt running the standard box anyway..
Look here, Answers your questions about mm forward and clearances. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... hlight=ruf
You probably could just move the front hanger back. But no one does and generally go ruf. So they move it forward.
_________________ BlueSuzy wrote: I'm over the G16b's.
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607CHA
az supporter
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:21 pm Posts: 265 Location: Baldhills
Vehicle: 02 jimny
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:00 am |
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Thanks buddy. I never found thread and I swear I was looking for over a month. Lol. But helped heaps. If I was to move the front hangers back and add the 2inch shackles and keep the diff in the same woul it have the same travel/ flex as ruf or are the longer springs better all round. All help very much appriciated.
_________________ LIVING LIFE ON THE EDGE, TILL YA ROLL
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BlueSuzy
az supporter
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 9696 Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:40 am |
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The longer the spring, The more the movement.
The only reason i moved the diff forward is for tyre clearance
Don't forget shocks, extended brakelines etcetc. stock is not suitable. see very recent shock thread. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=20666
there is a few on brakelines too.
_________________ BlueSuzy wrote: I'm over the G16b's.
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bozzaa
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:21 pm |
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Hey guys. I have just got myself a tintop widetrack 88 model. I am new to 4x4ing and have just thrown some hiace/comm shocks in as it is a budget weekend warrior. i really like where this thread is going, as it sounds wallet friendly and quite effective. i was wondering, after reading all this what conclusion was reached. will this 323/828 combination just bolt straight in to my stock sierra and sit level, or what exctly would i have to do to make it work?. Does it need a ruf?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
brendan
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sideways
az supporter
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 1:53 pm Posts: 5885 Location: Northcliffe, W.A.
Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:16 am |
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bozzaa wrote: Hey guys. I have just got myself a tintop widetrack 88 model. I am new to 4x4ing and have just thrown some hiace/comm shocks in as it is a budget weekend warrior. i really like where this thread is going, as it sounds wallet friendly and quite effective. i was wondering, after reading all this what conclusion was reached. will this 323/828 combination just bolt straight in to my stock sierra and sit level, or what exctly would i have to do to make it work?. Does it need a ruf?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
brendan You will need to chop your current spring/shackle hangers off the chassis, extend the chassis then re weld them on. Also, you'l probably need to make new shocky mounts (if you want longer shocks without masses of bumpstop spacing) and relocate the bumpstops and their mounts. Basically, it's a RUF with longer springs.
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4723 Location: perth
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Posted: Mon May 02, 2016 11:02 am |
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Suppose this info belongs in here Semi ruf - for those not wanting to redrill/chop/weld but still after a better riding and flexing front end. Efs do a hd lwb rear spring, this spring is alot shorter than all of the other lift spings out there, designed to carry a load and not invert. This top spring is a direct bolt in to the front of the sierra only requiring a slightly longer shackle at most, it also brings the front diff away from the firewall slightly which can help with tyre clearance (works spot on for my 32"s) Now this isnt as flexy as more involved ruf with longer spring but you are able to get some of the benifits on a smaller scale. This coupled with 100mm bumpstop spacing, longer brakelines and longer shocks is quite a stable reliable setup.
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Gwagensteve
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 12752 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 1:56 am |
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100mm?
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J--A--C--K
Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:48 am Posts: 253 Location: melbourne
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Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 4:10 pm |
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Surly that's a typo, that would almost clear a 36 off the top of the arch.
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4723 Location: perth
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Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 1:59 pm |
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Just measured, they are 75mm out of an old calmini kit. The 32"s are quite large for there size but still tuck right up, unfortunately they are neccessary as i dont have a body lift and the car sits quite low, would be lucky to be 75mm between the diff and bumpstop. Gives alot of stability climbing on the bumpstop with one wheel in the air.
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Bennyzarb
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 12:22 pm Posts: 501 Location: north richmond
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:20 pm |
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Hey all i have an 82 nt ute with wt diffs and just extendid the chassis to do ruf a bit worried about steering arms binding how would i stop this ?
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Blkfxx
az supporter
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:11 pm Posts: 1097 Location: Oberon, NSW
Vehicle: Drover pickup turk
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 10:36 pm |
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Redrill the U-bolt plate and spring perch to move the axle back.
_________________ Quote: I like the tuna here
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