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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2017 12:52 pm
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:07 pm 
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Hey zookers! Im new to the fourm and I have a few questions in regards to a 1.3 converion i'm doing to my Maruti ute.
1. I want to do the 'brake upgrade' by adding the brake booster from a sj70 sierra so my question is will the booster bolt straight on? Or will i need to change somthing..
2.how will i go about changing the airboxs should i just cut both the mouts off each vehicle or just try and drill more holes
Cheers guys


Last edited by SuziKing on Sun Jan 07, 2018 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 9:22 pm
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Location: Victoria "south Gippsland"
Vehicle: 1992 suzuki sierra hardtop

Post Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 8:50 pm 
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I would be doing a g16b not a 1.3.... same work for less tourqe

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 7:00 pm 
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instead of telling me what engine I should have put in could you help answer any of my questions ? I did consider the possability of doing a g16a or g16b but wentfor the simple route adm so far im happy with my choice.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 10:57 pm 
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"1. I want to do the 'brake upgrade' by adding the brake booster from a sj70"

The Maruti has a 2 bolt brake master cylinder bolt to firewall.
SJ booster is a 4 bolt mount bolted to firewall as well as a large hole ( dia 70mm? ) for the booster to poke through.
New holes required to suit.

It is attached to a paddle box (Clutch & Brake Paddle assy) inside cabin with holes to suit booster.
(Note SJ 50 Booster is different, have smaller housing / hole arrangement and different master cylinder too.)
SJ 70 Paddle box required

The accelerator cable also comes in lower.
Plug existing hole and reposition lower to suit.

Accelerator is set up is different.
The Maruti accelerator assembly ( as do SJ 51 ) have a extra unused hole in mounting bracket, lower one in this case.
Disassemble and reassemble using lower hole or get a paddle from a boosted car.

"2.how will i go about changing the airboxs "

Yes you can stuff around drilling more holes, but I'd just get a 1.3 front clip or drivers side guard.

Note greavesyzook is right about the engine though, if you mod the car for 1.3 (cut reweld eng mount, engine, engine loom,gearbox, starter motor, radiator mounts? radiator, 1.3 bonnet,..) then.. if you

Add a G16 engine / gearbox adapter kit approx. $200, you can fit a carb G16 with increase in power and torque.

Or adapter kit, elect fuel pump, plus rewiring for ECU you pretty much have a G16b conversion.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 6:17 am 
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This is turning against me ahah if i have to change so much, but later on if i want to do a 1.6 swap it shouldnt be as painful will it?

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 6:20 am 
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I think i will just leave the standard booster in and eliminate alot of the hassle, do I still have to change the accelerator cable with the standard booster ?

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Location: Victoria "south Gippsland"
Vehicle: 1992 suzuki sierra hardtop

Post Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 7:01 am 
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SuziKing wrote:
This is turning against me ahah if i have to change so much, but later on if i want to do a 1.6 swap it shouldnt be as painful will it?

Yeah but what's the point of pulling it all apart again when your already doing it now lol it's just a suggestion

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 7:35 am 
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I don’t believe the maruti has a booster at all(?) I’m not super familiar with marutis. Fitting a booster to a late 1.0 Sierra is quite easy, fitting one to an early 1.0 is almost impossible. I would have thought the Maruti would match a late 1.0

Remember a booster doesn’t upgrade your brakes in any way- it only lowers pedal effort. The fastest and most powerful race cars don’t use boosted brakes.

Correct, any work you do now other than the location of the drivers side engine mount will ease upgrading to a 1.6.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 9:34 am 
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They dont I meant master cylinder, typo. The only reason i went a 1.3 is because its the easiest to just buy a whole car that has everything you need to to do the conversion with the exception of welding the new engine mounts on which is made easy with the cars side by side. And I agree with the booster thing but if its such a hassle inwont worry about it just thought if it goes on no mods required i would swap them while im here.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:35 pm 
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With the 1.3 will the 1lt wiring harness plug in or will I need to swap them and how easy is it to change the wiring harness over ? Is there anything that the 1.3 runs besides an auto choke?

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:04 pm 
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Dont swap the harness over. Besides the carby stuff and alternator plug its all pretty much the same. Just chop the plugs off both and re connect the correct ones

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:42 pm 
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Alright, can I just swap the alternators over ? They should be the same but the 1lt would have a bit lower amp output..
How do I go about hooking up the auto choke ?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 8:59 am 
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Just swap the plug over and keep the 1.3 alt on the 1.3 motor
I think the choke works of independant mech bits on the carb when cold. The carb wires with the exception of 1 are emission controls from memory

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:14 am 
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Okay. Did your 5 speed box bolt straight in to the crossmember or did you have to cut the 1 out from a sierra and weld it in? Because ive just found that I will need to swap the flanges on the transfer to use a 1.3 jackshaft as the 1.3 uses larger bolts.
So did you keep the 1lt transfer or did you use the 1.3 one .. I want to keep the 1lt one as it reducded gearing but I need to change so much shit and I guess now that there will be a spline length difference between the gearboxs so I may have to get a new 1.3 jack shaft made with a 1lt flange .. Thoughts and how did you go about the conversion?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:36 am 
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You're not "changing so much" - you're just putting 1.3 engine mounts into the maruti, adjusting the bolt holes for the gearbox mount to suit (not even 100% sure this is required - the gearboxes are very similar), and fitting a 1.3 jackshaft. The Maruti trans tunnel is wide enough to clear a 5 speed as I understand it, as the maruti gearbox is a 4 speed version of the 1.3 5 speed.

In order to run the 1.0 litre case, swap the input flange from the 1.3 case onto the 1.0 case and bolt up the 1.3 jackshaft. This can be done without any disassembly and will have no effect on bearing preloads etc (unlike the diff pinions) because the transfer runs on ball bearings, not taper rollers.

In relation to the wiring, I disagree with MrRocky. If you have the complete, unmolested loom from the 1.3 litre car I would swap the entire loom into the Maruti, which might include the steering column and ignition key if the plugs are different- then it's a "remove and replace" install, and any subsequent troubleshooting process is EXACTLY as per a 1.3 sierra. Whilst I have build conversion looms for EFI conversions into carby cars before, when I did my own 1.6 into a 1.0 Sierra, I swapped the entire loom from the Vitara donor car. As a result I have had zero wiring issues, the car started first pop, and if I have a problem, I can just consult a Vitara workshop manual.

How far you want to go beyond that (swapping front guards for airbox location, dash, seats, door cards, rear brakes etc) is entirely up to you, but personally, I'd be asking the car as much like a LWB 1.3 as I could - this will get you as close as possible to a factory WT 1.3 LWB, rather than a "conversion" thats bits of this and that.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:57 am 
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The 5spd gbox will bolt straight up in maruti's.
You will need to use the maruti jackshaft that will slide right into the 5spd box with no dramas. It is 20mm shorter than a 1.3 sierra jackshaft.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:09 am 
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The 1ltr airbox is fine, ive used them on heaps of 1.6 swaps with no issues.
You will however need to space your radiator 10-15mm forward and slightly bend the mounts to fit the 1.3 radiator

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:24 am 
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Where is the 20mm difference coming from? Is the maruti transfer 20mm further forward or the 1.0 motor sits further back? Obviously this matters if the 1.3 engine mounts are welded in as per a 1.3, surely all the spacing should be as per a 1.3?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:50 am 
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Ive always dummy fitted the motor/box/engine mounts and tacked them on. They are always in the same spot as the 1.3 chassis so the difference must be transfer location.
Maruti's also have a different gbox crossmember, whilst gbox location is the same the crossmember prevents fitment of a 50mm transfer lift. (I went through this with just cruzin)

Edit - maruti jackshaft measures 266mm on the main shaft

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 12:47 pm 
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If the gearbox and jack shaft all go in and bolt up happy days then it's just a matter of like Mr Rocky said tacking the mounts in then removing the engine and box and get in and weld it all up good. If I can use the 1lt air box that would make things a bit easier because I have no plans on changing the front end I will just swap the bonnets over.


Last edited by SuziKing on Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 12:50 pm 
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Does the 1.3 rad bolt up to the maruti supports.. Or do I need to use the 1.3 ones as the 1.3 has a larger capacity.
And will the clutch cable work fine with the different box ?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:01 pm 
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Clutch cable is fine, you will need to drill out a couple of holes in the mounting plates on the sides of the radiator, space the rad mounting brackets forward 10 - 15mm and give them a slight bend once its in. The 1ltr radiator is smaller and can struggle in hotter conditons at high rpm (beachwork)
New 1.3 alloy rads are only $100 or so on ebay. Its certainly worth fitting one with a new motor going in, same as clutch and rear main/gbox seal as well

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:14 pm 
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The clutch is shot whenever It's idling the car wants to creep forward and the motor drops revs because it's under slight load and when I put it in gear and let the clutch out it engages suddenly and grabs with a thud and when I put the clutch in at low speeds it's thuds the same going in.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:27 pm 
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Sounds like incorrect adjustment or a crappy hd clutch has been fitted. If its shot it will slip heavily at 100.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:31 pm 
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Could be, I dont think it slips She spins the wheels in first but struggles to hold 100 foot flat.
I heard heavy duty clutches aren't worth it in a sierra just a heavier clutch pedal and more strain on the clutch cable ..

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:35 pm 
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Ive tried most of the fancy ones and prefer the stock replacements but every person has there own preferance.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:47 pm 
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Alright what I was going to do was when I get the conversion done run it into town and a new clutch, flywheel machined, new rear main and replace the sump gasket as it's leaking. But what your saying about a shitty hd clutch and poor adjusted could be true because at one point someone has put a gearbox from an sj50 into the sj70.


Last edited by SuziKing on Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:55 pm 
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Sump is normally just permatex sealant not a gasket
I always do the gbox input seal as well, its cheap and peace of mind. You just need to pull the small housing off around the input shaft and the seal sits in the housing

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:37 pm 
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How did you go about getting a new air intake pipe to go from the 1lt airbox to the 1.3 hat ?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 4:32 pm 
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Ive only done 1.6 efi swaps so cant comment on the carb 1.3 into maruti. I would suggest bends and silicone reducers or simply move the airbox to suit.
You can use the 1.3 airbox and 1.3 piping. Ive previously mounted them on spare transfer mounts i had laying around and worked spot on but you will need to cut of the 1ltr airbox bracketry spot welded onto the gaurd

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