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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2016 2:17 pm
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Location: Under a car in Brisbane scratching my head
Vehicle: Sierra g16 efi..and Sierra GTi

Post Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:41 am 
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This may already be here but I couldn't find it all in one place ..

First thing you will need is rocks in your head and patients.. If you have both those things then you may find this helpful.

We started with a 92 leafy and a Mark 2 GTi engine..
The advantage of a gti is no adapter plate needed.. It bolts straight on..Existing Starter fits as does clutch but you need to swap the flywheel and clutch to gti ..

You will need...

Engine (you will need to swap the oil pickup and sump from your Zook to the gti) as well keep you Zook dip stick..

A FULL GTi LOOM.... The one we were sold had bits missing... Get as much Gti stuff of the donor,. exhaust, O2 sensor, all the plugs...not just the wires...

A set of extractors for the gti as the ports are further apart and round , not square , and a gasket of course. $23 Bursons..Make sure your manifold has the correct size hole for the gti O2 sensor..

make sure you get the O2 sensor with both male and female plugs off the donor gti as you will need that.. The plug should be added to the loom....our's wasn't because the supplier of the kit forgot the O2 sensor and plugs so we had a small white unidentified wire on our loom hanging at the back of the engine..It was a white wire at the very bottom of this pick... It almost got connected to the water temp sender because it was soo close to that sender and the wire had NO ID marked on it .. fortunately someone here said it was for the O2 sensor and the water temp sender used the existing wire...

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Some commodore engine mounts..Ebay..Holden Commodore VL 6cyl inc Turbo Engine Mount NEW PAIR RB30E. The bumps that locate need to be either ground off or drill small hole for the bumps to fit into. You will need to grind some of the mount off on the exhaust side or the extractors will hit..Easy..

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Wiring loom made for gti made for your version Zook.. Our Loom was made wrongly and had to be stripped open and redone...aaahhhh You would think that a $400 loom would be done properly......

We upgraded the alternator to an EL Falcon so you will need one of these belts..Ebay..Dayco 4PK840 Power Steering (without A/C) Belt fits Mazda 121 DW 1.5L Petrol B5 ...Make sure the alt comes with the plug and 100mm of wire to join onto. With this new more powerful Alternator you will also need to replace the cable from the Alt to the battery.. We used an earth strap with a 100amp fuse in line. You may need to change ?mod the bracket to fit this but not hard to do..The gti has 4PK pulley and so does the Ford so it's all good..

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We opted for an electric radiator fan because we already had one. It comes on when the ignition is on but we also have a switch on the dash so we can turn it off in water crossings etc and the light on the switch helps up to remember it is off.. You can get a water pump that fit the gti engine that a fan can go onto but you will need to hunt around for the fan spacer or make one..Good luck with that.

You should check the timing belt and belt tensioner pulley while it is easy to do. Replacing the belt is only $30 or so.. Ours looked good and money was an issue for my son so we left it after checking it..

A Coily fuel tank with an in tank pump or a Coily tank and an in tank pump from a Vitara which will fit the coily tank..
Because the fuel line will now be pressurized instead of being sucked from the fuel pump you will need to replace any section of non metal fuel line with new high pressure hose and same clamps. There is 2 small sections either side of the fuel filter near the back of the car on the driver side that we forgot and on out first test drive these blew apart.. The coily tank is a different size and the stuff on top of the tank will hit the car so I put 20mm spacer at the front and 10 at the back to give a bit more space between the two.. I just used 10mm thick nuts as spacers

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You will need either a 90degree offset dizzy or the option we chose is a 90degree cap that has the wires going out sideways from the cap.. If you choose this option the correct rotor for that cap is JR400 and available at Repco for $30. The cap is of an early model 323 TURBO 89ish..You will need to find a small screw to hold the rotor onto the dizzy shaft. They don't come with the screw....wt..You will also have to bash the %$#@ out of the firewall where the dizzy is otherwise your new engine is not going to fit.. The more you bash the better..If you can get in there 50mm you may even be able to get your dizzy cap off without removing your engine... These bits are off a Mazda early model 323 Turbo... 8O You can see the low profile dizzy cap, 90 degree coolant outlet and a couple of the plugs including the O2 sensor wire (white one) .. would have been handy if the loom maker had labeled that one......

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You need a GTi coil which will have a small power unit screwed to the bottom of the coil bracket which works as a heat sink..This power unit has something to do with the igniter and your new loom will have the 3 wires for this unit.. Make sure you supply the loom maker with the female plug for this unit so he can incorporate it in the loom. A gti loom should come with one of these when you first buy the gti loom...Ours didn't ...aaahhhh. You can use your old coil but you will need to get one of these Power Transistor units and mount it somewhere near there.

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Your loom will come with 3 wires that go to Noise Suppress unit...That is the small thing on the firewall that already has 3 wires going into a plug that goes nowhere.. It has NS on it and it just gets cut off there and put onto the new loom..

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You will also need to modify the air intake pipe or it will be too long to fit in the engine bay once an air filter is added. Fortunately the inner diameter of the intake is the same at the end as it is after you have carefully cut off the flexible boot type section. You will need to make or buy 2 tube joints so you can attach the 2 large vacuum hoses from the rocker...Once again I raided our pipes and joiners spares and put something together..

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You will need a bulb for the Check Engine light which already has a spot in you dash but has no bulb.. Your new loom will come with 2 CE wires and you need that to look for Flashing light codes .. :!: You could just put a bulb on those wire and leave it under the dash and sus it out if you had an issue..

The gti has the charcoal canister very close to the intake manifold and there is a sensor on the side toward the back of the intake manifold that suck the fumes from the canister so make sure you run the existing Zook hose over to that sensor. It will effect the tune if you don't ....

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The other issue you need to over come is getting the coolant from the back of the engine.. You need a 90 degree water exit. SCA etc will have that. Then you need to swap the short bit of pipe from the water pump on your old engine and transfer it to the new one.. Make sure you clean up the large "O" ring and use some propper sealant when you fit it. The piece of pipe from the Gti engine can be cut and braced using some home made wrap around brackets and there are holes that you can use to mount it.. I used bits of hose to make up the small lengths that join the metal bits together.

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You will also need to lengthen the accelerator cable to reach from the back of the gti engine to the front where the accelerator cable does it's thing.. I got an old accelerator cable and joined it to the cable by making a loop in each cable and then binding the loops with SS thread from another cable..I bound it for about 15mm on either side of the two interlocked loops then wrapped it in tape.. I had shrink wrap but forgot to feed it on before I bound the cables.. Works a treat and is not going to break any time soon. I used the tube bar thing that goes across the back of the engine to mount the cable adjuster bracket onto.

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Wiring the loom is easy if the loom is done properly as the wires/connectors should be roughly in the right place if you lay the loom on top of the engine it should all reach nicely.. There are 4 down the back of the engine which are a bit tricky to get to .. A green plug, a blue plug , and a white plug as well as a single terminal for the water temp sender which is a real pain to get on because you can't see it.. You may need a small mirror , a torch and 3 hands to get that sucker on. There is also an earth wire there that uses an earth wire that is on your old loom.

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Most of the old loom becomes redundant and can be wrapped in tape and hidden away when finished but there are a couple you will still use.. Eg the water temp mentioned above, oil pressure switch, earth for the dizzy, starter motor etc..

When you are finished it should all look like this.. All that remains is to make a box for the POD filter so the snorkle can do it's thing in the dust..Note the tool box bolted into the engine bay...

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If I think of anything else I will update this ..In the mean time enjoy.. A stock G13b carby engine makes 63 HP... The gti engine makes 100HP so it is a nice little power gain.. We also have a G16 (98HP) in our coily which we fitted but that's a whole other story.. Cheers..

PS... I will load some pics when I get a chance .


Last edited by Toomanycars on Fri Apr 20, 2018 4:08 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:28 pm 
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Good work mate!! Glad you get it sorted and some good pointers for anyone wanting to do the same.. if you’ve got pics it would make this super helpful :)

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:46 pm 
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No worries... Since I finished it I have hardly seen it.. LOL... My son has been out in it ever since....If it ever comes home I will get some pics..

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 4:59 pm 
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Excellent!!! Good to see he’s enjoying it

Rather than pics of the car (which I do enjoy immensely!) pics which demonstrate the solutions to problems you’ve discussed are a bit more helpful than just the text alone. See what you come up with :)

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Some Pics added... In many ways this was very similar to the conversion to the 1600 in my other sons Zook.. Same fuel pump , same accelerator cable mod, same coolant pipe mod as the Baleno is also east west..Same sump and oil pickup mod however you also need to cut and weld to mod for the cam position sensor on the front of the sump. Same strengthening of rubber fuel hose. If we had been provided with all the bits to start with and if the Loom maker had not made mistakes....I think the Gti would have been in some ways easier than the 1.6 efi conversion.. No gearbox mod bracket and no sump cut and weld required.. As far as performance goes, because they are such light cars, torque is not that important and the gti is a performance engine so there is no real winner but I guess the old saying, " there is no better replacement than displacement" would be true for towing but for fun...the GTi is the winner.. Gti 1.3L = 113 HP .... Baleno 1.6L = 98 HP.... Stock Sierra G13b = 63HP......... That says it all really ...Cheers...

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 5:10 pm 
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Couple of points of interest- do you have a plan to fit an air filter?

Where are you getting the 113hp figure from for the g13b? I’ve never seen a figure above 76kw. (~100hp)

Published JDM power figures are higher than AU figures due to a different measurement method, and these can be misleading. Even so 84kw is much higher than I’m used to seeing quoted for a g13b

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Location: Under a car in Brisbane scratching my head
Vehicle: Sierra g16 efi..and Sierra GTi

Post Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:09 pm 
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LOL...
This engine produces a maximum power of 101 PS (100 bhp - 74 kW) at 6450 rpm and a maximum torque of 113 Nm (83 lb.ft) at 4950 rpm.
read more at: https://www.ultimatespecs.com/car-specs ... -II-13-GTi.
So you are correct ... 100hp and 113 nm torque.. That will teach me to rush..

No... The pod will be enclosed and breath through the snorkel..Unless you have an air filter that will fit there that you would like to donate...

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:33 pm 
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Good work on the pics!! Looks nice and neat like factory! Nicely done!

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 5:32 pm 
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Who built your wiring loom? I am undertaking the same conversion at the moment and need a loom built...

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 5:49 pm 
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If it had been done correctly I would be happy to pass on the guys name but because I had to get someone else (a domestic sparky LOL) to fix it, I would rather not recommend the person who did ours... Our loom had 3 issues.. We had power going to the ecu and one of the relays constantly even though the main ECU 12v was not connected.. Also a wire would start off one color one end and change color further down the loom which meant opening the entire loom to see where things were going... Took hours to sort out. Would not recommend..Sorry..
PM me before getting yours done with the persons name you intend to use and I will advise to go ahead or go elsewhere. I don't want you to suffer the same fate. We are lucky that we have a good friend who can sort out this sort of stuff.. He has helped us with both the 1.6 and the gti conversions..

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 12:34 pm 
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Regarding the LOOM ...
It would seem that there is some confusion regarding The "loom" ... whether you are converting to a Baleno 1.6 or a Swift GTi engine and regardless if you are doing this to a leafy or a Coily, you are converting a non Computer controlled fuel and input supply system to a ECU system... When you purchase the engine you also need to buy the Computer and the LOOM from the doner car that controls that type of Fuel injected system... You can NOT go off to somewhere and ask them to "Please make me a LOOM!" without supplying them with a doner loom that matches the engine type you are fitting....Well I guess you could but the loom will cost more than the engine !!! You also have to make sure that the LOOM you get as a doner has ALL the plugs to clip onto your engine... Our Loom was missing the plug to the Power Transistor unit so we had to hunt around to try and find the female power unit plug with a bit of each of the wires attached so we could see which wire went to each of the 3 terminals on the unit.. Ours was also missing the 0@ sensor and the plug for the O2 sensor to plug into. Fortunately the supplier of the engine, loom, ecu, etc etc was happy to supply us with the an O2 sensor and the other missing plug. He couldn't find the plug for the O2 sensor so our O2 sensor is now hard wired.. If you don't get EVERYTHING from the Doner you could be up for hundreds more.. An O2 sensor alone is $45 on ebay..
A Loom maker may have boxes of all the different size and color plugs and the 3 (all different sizes) plugs that go into the ECU but it will cost you @#$% loads to get them to make the entire LOOM....and after they do, unless they use the correct color coded wire for each individual plug etc, you will never be able to fix any electrical faults.. To sus out a fault, you need the wiring diagram for each type of cars LOOM... This tells you the color of EACH WIRE and which pin on the ecu goes to which individual pin in a plug on the cars engine...This is how we were able to discover which wire was incorrect in the loom we had...
So...long short of it all ...You need a loom with ALL THE PLUGS and the computer for the engine you are installing...unless you have lots of money to throw around and you are happy to wait forever while you find the missing bits...
Also when taking out the old engine...MARK the PLUGS as you pull them off because you will need some of the old looms plugs.. EG...oil pressure wire, distrubutor earth wire, Starter motor, alternator, water temperature....When it is all totally done and the new engine is perfect...only then can you wrap all the unused old loom wires and hide them away in the engine compartment.. DO NOT CUT OUT your old loom.........The next owner may want to take it back to stock ... I will post the wiring diagram for this Conversion asap..

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