[Gwagensteve]

*hijack on*

Cool.



oh, and I don't think it's well known that Chitty Chitty Bang Bang was written by Ian Fleming - the author of James Bond. I read Casino Royale (for the first time) a couple of months ago and quite enjoyed it

Steve.

Sorry *Hjack off*

[tonyevans]

Gwagensteve wrote:

*hijack on*

Cool.



oh, and I don't think it's well known that Chitty Chitty Bang Bang was written by Ian Fleming - the author of James Bond. I read Casino Royale (for the first time) a couple of months ago and quite enjoyed it

Steve.

Sorry *Hjack off*

Thats the one - Started life as a Ford Thames 15cwt van

[Fatzook]

I welded my rear wall in, and seam sealed it. It stopped dust and water getting into the rear section. Was less work than you'd think.

Make a cardboard template, and rip it out of one piece of 1.2mm steel ( zinc). Fold a gentle cross brake in it to stop it from drumming, and stitch it in.

Seal with sikaflex.

[douglasgiersch]

So Fatzook i think i have decied on doing your bracing idea, would i be best doing a mirror imgage of this on otherside with a joint in the middle with one going straigh through and one cut then welded on other side -/- type deal or have them meet in the middle of the tub, Will do your 5mm plate idea in the corners once i take it over to a mates with an oxy. then weld the rest up, will put the two braces through the 5mm flat going across the front near the bulkhead and bolt to the floor.
Doug.

[Trypt]

"Marine" just means the adhesive used to bond the veneers is waterproof/resistent.
You can get cheap shit marine ply that will not last 2 weeks in the weather because the core veneers are second rate soft woods.
this is commonly marketed as exterior ply.

However hardwood marine ply will last regardless of whether its sealed. obviously sealing it will make it last even longer.

[Fatzook]

JMO, and don't get offended, but I think there is enough cattle rail in that thing already. Get yourself half a stick of 32NB medium pipe for the cross bracing, and try to run it completely to the opposing corner. The smaller section of the tube will steal a little less tray space, and IMO the smaller material will make the main hoop look better. It will also be easier to notch the joins.

[douglasgiersch]

Getting there, a mig welder would be rather handy right now so sick of slag getting in the welds that involve filling a hole/gap but joint or fillet weld i get a great bead pretty well every time but filling gaps kills me. The two cross braces dont go through the flat at the front but they will go to the floor with have each cross braces welded to a bit of flat underneath then bolting to the floor. Hard to explain with words but will get a pic once i do it.

[douglasgiersch]

Getting there, spent more time making this dam bar then i have working on my car.

[Fatzook]

Looking good!!

[douglasgiersch]

Thanks fat, should be nice a strong now, bloody regreating not buying a mig when i had the chance on the plus side a can weld circles round my metal work teacher with arc, What type of hinges did you use for yours not sure what to use. Also with the wireing for your taillight did that run inside the pipework of just have it tapped up along the side, to be honest i couldnt be stuffed running it on the inside step dad keeps hounding on doing it but with all the sharp edges of the segmented welds would think it wouldnt take long at all to short out and blow a fuse.

[tonyevans]

Is looking very good - The wire does go down the inside but was a bit warn though so I threaded some nylex garden hose down and threaded the wire though that.

The hinges are just normal butt hinges like on a door - welded to the lid and bolted through tray lid.

I can take a picture later if you need it.

[Fatzook]

tonyevans wrote:

Is looking very good - The wire does go down the inside but was a bit warn though so I threaded some nylex garden hose down and threaded the wire though that.

The hinges are just normal butt hinges like on a door - welded to the lid and bolted through tray lid.

I can take a picture later if you need it.

Its well travelled too. You'd be the third or 4th owner Tony.

[tonyevans]

It look a little different now to when I got it - viewtopic.php?f=4&t=34757

[Fatzook]

Yeah I just saw that.

Definately need sunglasses when looking at it!!!

[douglasgiersch]

Dam Tony why did you have to show me that now ive got thoughts of hard tops/maurte tops buzzing through me head.
Bloody looks good, your sure are in lightning ridge by the looks of the ground/rocks and would keep it air tight. Like the idea with the spray on liner might be able to hid some of my slag infused stick welds .
For times sake will just settle for soft top, maybe with a window in a upside down triangle shape inside the X brace.

[douglasgiersch]

Finally finished the bar, got rid of xbrace bit to confusing, defiantly more of a sports bar than roll bar and won't pass any comp regs but it serves its function of slightly more protection then nothing and looks pretty good. Gotta get alloy lid tig welded up put some hinges on it and it should be ready to go.

[missmyljdaze]

My first trade was as a wood machinist, IIRC, our instructor taught us that good quality plywood is around 7 times stronger than steel (weight for weight)

It also explains why plywood was used for many years in aircraft until aluminium alloys became more common and took over.

During my apprenticeship, I spent a lot of time pulling wrecked aircraft apart for displays at the Bullcreek aviation museum- and was surprised at how much ply survived compared to aluminium and steel. (AVRO Ansons that were abandoned to rot.)Airframes had rusted away, while timber wings were in pretty good nick.

Like most projects, preparation is the key- do it properly and it will last ages.
Do a bodgy job, and you have.....a bodgy result.

stephen.